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Pretty much a slug motor.
There was 2 engines offered in 76. The L48 which is the stock low performance motor. The same motor used in passenger cars also. The L82 was the high performance motor. It had forged internals and more HP but it was no barnstormer either. The L48 can be made to have some power but it takes some work and money.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
You need new heads, steel shim head gasket to get the compression up, aftermarket intake, Holley carb ( my preference ). Then you need headers 2 1/2 in., exhaust and a new cam ( CC 270 Magnum is a good start ) Pull alll the smog stuff off and your set
If you don't do that prepare to get smoked by every ricer that pulls up beside you at the lights ( drag strip lights of course )
The L48 is really not the greatest... if you're looking for performance you will probably not like either one (L48 or L82). The necessary modifications are basically the same: heads, cam, intake and carb. headers are a good idea but can be done later as it is external ....
the L48 runs strong with these mods but be aware that your crank is the weak link.
Hey guys thanks for the info, If I go for it ( which I most likely will) at least I got an idea as to what I need to do. I wonder if headers are ok to use in Rhode Island, I will have to look into that.
RedBad1979, I have an L48 in a 77 with 55,000 miles. I was planning on changing cam, installing vortec heads and intake and carb with headers. THe vortec heads with 64cc chambers will take the motor to about 9.5 to 1. Do you think I am asking for trouble, the bottom end seems fine, I will plastic gauges the bearing when it is apart? While I am doing this just spend another $1,200 and buy a 4 bolt long block? Your thoughts?
RedBad1979, I have an L48 in a 77 with 55,000 miles. I was planning on changing cam, installing vortec heads and intake and carb with headers. THe vortec heads with 64cc chambers will take the motor to about 9.5 to 1. Do you think I am asking for trouble, the bottom end seems fine, I will plastic gauges the bearing when it is apart? While I am doing this just spend another $1,200 and buy a 4 bolt long block? Your thoughts?
You should be OK.As much of a slug as it is I have seen them take some pretty good abuse and keep running. Some have been spun to 6000 rpm and made over 400 HP with a stock bottom end. That is pushing it and I think in the long run it will come apart. If you stay under 5500 rpm and have around 300+ HP it should live a good life. If you plan on drag racing it I would step up to something a little more durable.
Gordonm, any suggestions on what I am planning on doing? It will not be drag raced, it will be driven probably 2,000 mile per year. Don't wanna put a whole bunch of money in the car, the heads we're given to me. Was planning on having them redone, screw in studs put in and have them cut to take a cam larger than the .480 lift that the stock head can handle. Suggestions would be appreaciated. cam suggestions?
[QUOTE=MotorHead]You need new heads, steel shim head gasket to get the compression up, aftermarket intake, Holley carb ( my preference ). Then you need headers 2 1/2 in., exhaust and a new cam ( CC 270 Magnum is a good start ) Pull alll the smog stuff off and your set
Doing the aforementioned mods will not only bump the horsepower but will make it as potent, if not more powerful, then most C3 small block vettes that Chevy produced. Today's perforance heads are much better than the old designed double humps. Headers will add 15hp or so. The cast crank can easily withstand 400hp with out problems.
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by Gordonm
Pretty much a slug motor.....
i am deeply offended that you consider my 142 hp 235 ft lb L 48 a slug. i consider it a snail, beautiful, but not slimy..... well ok perhaps it is sluggish... or just plain slow.... my solution is to remove it permanently starting real soon!!!!!!!!!!!!
Was planning on having them redone, screw in studs put in and have them cut to take a cam larger than the .480 lift that the stock head can handle. Suggestions would be appreaciated. cam suggestions?
There is no need to have machine work done to the heads in order for them to use a cam with greater than .480 lift. Crane has a kit, springs and retainers, that will allow lift up to .550".
Crane Cam’s 10309-1 drop-in valve spring and retainer kit which is good for .550” lift with no machining. It allow using the factory valve seals as well.
I have a set of Vortec's and may switch to this setup prior to assembly.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Actually I know a forum member ( desi ) who is doing everything I just mentioned with my Sportsman II heads, he will have it dynoed in the spring I'm betting over 275HP at the rear wheels which is in the same neighbourhood as a stock C5
"Rodstoration &am p;quot; In Progres
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,397
Likes: 1
From: Frisco TX
Have an L48 in my 80... Now putting out 320hp at the crank.
Mods:
Edelbrock RPM 64cc heads (ported and polished)
Edelbrock Performer intake
Edelbrock Thunder AVS 650
Flame Thrower HEI
XE274 Cam
Roller Rockers
Hooker Headers
True Duals
Flowmaster Delta 40s
There is no need to have machine work done to the heads in order for them to use a cam with greater than .480 lift. Crane has a kit, springs and retainers, that will allow lift up to .550".
Crane Cam’s 10309-1 drop-in valve spring and retainer kit which is good for .550” lift with no machining. It allow using the factory valve seals as well.
I have a set of Vortec's and may switch to this setup prior to assembly.
Wow, you had me interested there, but when I saw the price I realized getting the high lift heads from Scoggin-Dickey would be the same price as the standard heads plus this kit. I guess if you already have the heads it's a good alternative. Joe
Jegs price:
270-10309-1 Spring & Retainer Kit $153.99
RedBad1979, I have an L48 in a 77 with 55,000 miles. I was planning on changing cam, installing vortec heads and intake and carb with headers. THe vortec heads with 64cc chambers will take the motor to about 9.5 to 1. Do you think I am asking for trouble, the bottom end seems fine, I will plastic gauges the bearing when it is apart? While I am doing this just spend another $1,200 and buy a 4 bolt long block? Your thoughts?
It will be fine , at least for a while. My L48 is similar to 80TexasC3's, 64cc heads, Performer cam, intake and carb. 320HP at the crank is a little disappointing, I thought mine has more power than that but will probably be close to his.
I am planning on installing a forged crank, good rods and forged pistons next year. My bottom end is still good and I don't drive very slow...
If you're planning on taking the engine out anyway then go with a stroker kit and get the block machined ... I regret that I haven't done it when the car was apart.
Wow, you had me interested there, but when I saw the price I realized getting the high lift heads from Scoggin-Dickey would be the same price as the standard heads plus this kit. I guess if you already have the heads it's a good alternative. Joe
Jegs price:
270-10309-1 Spring & Retainer Kit $153.99
I'm not sure what Scoggin-Dickey or Pace charge for upgrading the Vortec heads (too lazy and busy at the moment). I was also dissapointed when I saw the price of the Crane kit. Either way adds cost and takes away from the perf vs. value they offer.
There is no need to have machine work done to the heads in order for them to use a cam with greater than .480 lift. Crane has a kit, springs and retainers, that will allow lift up to .550".
Crane Cam’s 10309-1 drop-in valve spring and retainer kit which is good for .550” lift with no machining. It allow using the factory valve seals as well.
I have a set of Vortec's and may switch to this setup prior to assembly.
Not sure, but these springs seem like they are for LT-1 heads, and all of the research I have done, are not interchangable on any "regular" small block. Any article I have read states that the valve guides need to be machined down on the vortec heads as the rocker will bottom out on any thing greater than .480, resulting in bad things, bent push rods, etc. http://www.automotiverebuilder.com/ar/ar99928.htm
I have attached an article on the LT1/LT4 and under head gasket section it explains that the heads are not interchangable http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...26&prmenbr=361
Jegs shows the part # for these springs and the application as LT-1 iron heads. I just don't want to see anyone destroy a motor. I think the price to have a used set machined, 3/8" screw in studs and machined for the larger lift is around $350 at a local machine shop. Any article you read will tell you you have a great deal in these heads. My 2cents worth.......