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Hello Everyone,
I am having some problems with the Q-jet on my '72 Vette. The carb has been recently rebuilt(by a pro, not me). It is on a base model 350. It idles great and and will rev freely until about 4000 rpm. It then sounds like just as the secondaries try to come in that, the engine stumbles and will not rev any higher. This happens whether you ease into the throttle or if you go straight to full throttle although it is worse when going strainght to full throttle.
Anyone have any ideas your suggestions on how to correct this?
I don't mean to sound smartypants or anything but in my opinion the best fix on these old carbs is to put a new Edelbrock Performer on. I've put them on several different vehicles. They seem to hold up the best with this new kind of gas we have to use now. I just put one on my 75 on Saturday and it runs great now. I've never had much luck with carb rebuilds either. My $.02.
From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
Originally Posted by piratemike
Hello Everyone,
I am having some problems with the Q-jet on my '72 Vette. The carb has been recently rebuilt(by a pro, not me). It is on a base model 350. It idles great and and will rev freely until about 4000 rpm. It then sounds like just as the secondaries try to come in that, the engine stumbles and will not rev any higher. This happens whether you ease into the throttle or if you go straight to full throttle although it is worse when going strainght to full throttle.
Anyone have any ideas your suggestions on how to correct this?
Thanks,
Mike
Mike, how many miles on the engine? Are you sure you are not running into valve float and/or fuel starvation by a bad pump?
Lots of caruretor problem are in the distributor Make sure the advance wieghts are free. Also Check for worn (wobbley or loose) breaker plate. Reset the dwell
My secondaries were malfunctioning for 2 years due to a gasket interference issue. Still got to 4500+ rpm. It sounds like an ignition problem to be. (But check the secondary lockout lever.)
Thanks for all the replies. In response to a few of the questions...The engine is brand new. It has been broken in but, at this point the car is not driveable so there is no more than about 2 hours of run time on the engine. The distributor has been"refurbished"...new points,weights and light weight springs.rotor,cap,wires and plugs. I do not have a dwell meter so, could you tell me a way to set the dwell without a meter?
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
If you don't have a dwell meter, set the point gap with a feeler gage: With the point rubbing block positioned on the highest part of the lobe (points widest open), the gap should be .016". You should have a snug slip fit with a feeler gauge. This will produce a dwell of about 28 degrees, which is close enough to not cause any performance problems (optimum is 30-31 degrees).
Once you have set dwell and verified that you are getting 36 degrees total timing, check your secondary airvalve windup spring tension: these are often set too loose on rebuilt carbs, and this will make the car fall on its face when you go into the secondary side. Set the spring tension to 3/4 turn windup. Also, make sure your choke pulloff is hooked up and functioning correctly since this will affect secondary opening rate.