torque specs for front spindle assembly
11-03-2004, 08:54 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
I have:
70 foot pounds for steering arm nuts.
95 foot pounds for mounting bolts for brakes
spindle nut: torque to 12 foot pounds to seat the bearings, back off to just loose, then hand tighten with .001-.005 end play.
70 foot pounds for steering arm nuts.
95 foot pounds for mounting bolts for brakes
spindle nut: torque to 12 foot pounds to seat the bearings, back off to just loose, then hand tighten with .001-.005 end play.
11-03-2004, 10:11 PM
#4
Racer
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sorry i was so vague. the bolts i'm talking about are the ones that hold the dust shield on. which basically hold the whole assembly together. its for a 72
11-03-2004, 11:06 PM
#5
Team Owner
Member Since: Jul 2004
Location: Redondo Beach, California
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The dust shield is held on with three bolts that form a triangle. The two at the bottom, which hold on the steering knuckle, are shown in the AIM as 70 foot-pounds. The one large stubbie bolt at the top, - I can't find the spec on this one. I wrote it down somewhere but can't find it now. I think it was 120 foot pounds. The brake caliper housing attach bolt torques are given in the AIM as 60 to 80 foot pounds.
I had a lot of trouble getting the dust shield on. The bolt holes in my new (repro?) shield had zero or maybe slightly negative tolerance. I loosely attached the big bolt at the top, and then loosely attached the two bolts at the bottom initially backwards; i.e. with the threaded part of the bolt facing outward. The threads were used to assist screwing in these two bolts into the dust shield holes. When they were in I tighted the top to a low torue setting, then tighten the nuts on the bottom to a mid torque. When all the bolts were in and and the dust shield was snug, I one by one removed the bottom two bolts and replaced them properly with the heads of the bolts facing me. Then I torqued them down. If you have trouble getting the bolts through the dust shield, it's important to get them in without enlarging the holes in the dustshield. Everything needs to be snug and fit tightly so that the bracket that holds on the brake caliper housing won't vibrate and loosen.
Even though my dust shields were new (silver cad), I spray painted them with silver cad paint so they would not eventually corrode.
I had a lot of trouble getting the dust shield on. The bolt holes in my new (repro?) shield had zero or maybe slightly negative tolerance. I loosely attached the big bolt at the top, and then loosely attached the two bolts at the bottom initially backwards; i.e. with the threaded part of the bolt facing outward. The threads were used to assist screwing in these two bolts into the dust shield holes. When they were in I tighted the top to a low torue setting, then tighten the nuts on the bottom to a mid torque. When all the bolts were in and and the dust shield was snug, I one by one removed the bottom two bolts and replaced them properly with the heads of the bolts facing me. Then I torqued them down. If you have trouble getting the bolts through the dust shield, it's important to get them in without enlarging the holes in the dustshield. Everything needs to be snug and fit tightly so that the bracket that holds on the brake caliper housing won't vibrate and loosen.
Even though my dust shields were new (silver cad), I spray painted them with silver cad paint so they would not eventually corrode.
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