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Trying to figure out how to get the hard top on for the first time and have two questions:
1. The previous owner said something about it missing a few "bolts," but said he wasn't sure since he never really used it. I have two naked-looking, gray threaded ends sticking out from the back of the hartop which seem to fit into the bezel, the names of which I've looked up and found that they are called "bow studs." I'm wondering if the missing parts are the "convertible rear bow bolts." Ecklers part number A2716.
Since these are called "convertible rear bow bolts," I'm wondering if these will screw right into the bow studs on the hardtop, or do I need ones that are specially designed for the hartop. Or is this not the part I'm missing at all?
2. What else gets screwed in here? Owners manual talks about some wrench that's supposed to do something or another.
Hoping someone can give me a hand cause I'm clueless on this one.
You can use the original threaded studs, you will need the underneath hardware to cinch them down. Or you can replace the studs with the kind that go on the soft top. kind of a spear headed bolt. No bolts needed underneath. There are other attaching points, two on the side of the rear deck lid, next to the rear door edge, and of course the three header latches. Is your top original to the car? Later hardtops had a threaded stud in the middle of the rear so it could be drawn down slightly to take the air gap out between the weather strip and the rear deck lid. You may not have this middle stud if you have an early hardtop. I bought a top that didn't have it and put one on, drilled the hole in the deck, and installed the ferrel to make it correct for my 71. The wrench is for installing and removing the bolts and was supplied originally. Any correct size wrench will work or you can by a repo at any vendor along with any attaching hardware you might not have.
That's the bolt pictured. Just unthread the original all thread bolts and install these. Adjust in the get a correct fit for the top and deck lid. Not correct, but a lot eazier to remove top. On the one I bought for my car, the top was for a 68. It had a smaller diameter spear type bolt and one larger. I bought new bolts and one side wouln't thread as the hole was to small. I took the bracket off and had it machined to the larger size. My guess is GM beefed the bolts up from a 68. I also had to add the metal covers to protect the rear corners and the center stud. The center had to be a stud, as there is no latch to grab the other style bolt. All that, plus painting the headliner and side panels, new weatherstripping, and having a vinyl cover put on, new front latches, I have a nice top. As my car did not come from the factory with a hardtop, I had to buy the hardware for the sides and drill the rear deck to install the bolt and ferrel. I like the look of a hartop for cool weather and the for the comfort. Makes the car more secure.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
My hardtop has the threaded rods on it. I have been wondering about putting the softtop bolts in it just for ease of installation. Glad this topic got brought up. I guess I will buy a couple of these bolts and go with it. Now about this bolt that goes through the center of the deck lid. My car came with the hardtop option so it has the center hole. What goes through this hole? Got any pics of this bolt?
The advantage of the "Convertible Rear Bow Bolt" you have shown is that when you set the hardtop in place they will push thru the hole on their own. I have actually used just regular old bolts (hex head) and I had to pull the release handle under the deck to allow them to fit thru the openings, but they did work fine. To get the top snugged down it is important to have the 2 bolts that go on the sides. I was able to find those also at the hardware store.. fine thread... size 20..?
Can somebody take a picture of that center-rear fastener? I'd like to add that, as mine doesn't quite seal right there. It's brand new stripping and the corners are pulled down tight.
Thanks guys. I just ordered a pair from Eckler's. Seems like it will be a nice, convenient way to deal with the roof.
My roof is pretty cool in that it has speakers built into it. Just out of curiosity I've searched for aftermarket companies that make hardtops with speakers but I haven't found any. Makes me think mine is a factory hard top that was modified. I have a Pioneer amp on the way. The plan is to keep the stock radio and hide the amp somewhere in the car along with a hidden MP3 player to upgrade the sound system a little. Will rig up an A/B switch so that I can still use the radio just for kicks. Anxious to see how it sounds through these speakers. First need to get the darn thing on. All of these little projects are made possible by the liberating aspects of a non-matching numbers car!!!! Trying to at least keep the "look" mostly all-original because of personal preference.
From this thread it appears that my '74 may have had the hardtop as an option (or maybe all later 'verts had this done) as my rear deck has the hole predrilled and a factory chrome "plug" (with washers, etc.) placed over the drilled hole. I picked up a hardtop that will be repainted to match the car and it happened to come with the "spear" looking bolts in your link already on it ... the only issue was a few of the screws holding these down were missing so I had to purchase these. The top also came with the center mounting hdwe but doesn't look original so anyone who does have a photo of what it should look like would also be appreciated. The sides of my deck lid appear to have the holes predrilled as well but of course no hwde there ... sounds like anything there would be removed with the hardtop and not stay on the car anyway? Love the look of the hardtop on a C3 'vert plus hopefully when mine is done will get a few more weeks of drive time
The bolt that goes on the rear bow is a carriage bolt, about two inches in length. The bolt goes through the bracket that is mounted on the rear bow. It has a square hole and this is what keeps it from turning when you tigthen the nut from underneath. This should be done enough to draw the bow down and make a seal with the weatherstip and deck. If your car did not come from factory with hardtop, there was no center hole drilled in the deck with the ferrel installed. Owners like me have installed it and on others the car and the original hardtop have long departed ways, so you could have the hole and no hardtop. The bolt and ferrel on the sides of the deck lid stay on the car when the top in removed. This is a bolt with outer and inner threads. The nut goes on behind to keep it in place and the side bolt goes in to help secure the top to the car.
I just have the two mounts on the rear bow, no middle one. I have the convertible style pins on order but in the meantime I tried setting the top in place with just the regular bolts and the side mounts. It fits nice and snug. I have a couple of nuts that I could use on the two rear bolts but it's kind of a PITA to get in there. Anyway I took it for a ride and it's tight, no rattles. I'll let you guys know how I make out with the new convertible bolts. Any of you guys use the decklid protector from Ecklers?
I also have a hardtop that I picked up ( a real clunker, but almost free) and my car did not come with one so the center bolt is not there. I'm using the "spears" so it'll interchange with the soft top, but I'm curious about the two bolts that go right up by the doors that show up in the AIM hartop section. Are they vital to make it seal? It appears there are some inner mounts, and I would have to drill some holes...
Mine seals fine using only the two rear "spears" and three cam locks up front. Only place I have an issue is at the center of the rear bow, and it's not bad at all...
The center aft locating pin was not used on 68. Only showed uo 69 and later.
It is just a locating pin. Does not get a nut or so to hold the top down.
Are they vital to make it seal? It appears there are some inner mounts, and I would have to drill some holes...
I wouldn't use the top without bolting it to this sides. I think it's vital to keep the top on the car at higher speeds.
If the deck lid does not have the receptacles for this bolts, you have to drill and install them.They are available from every bigger Vette parts vendor.
I'll try and take a picture of the center stud tonight but it might not come out good because the top is on my car now. There is a chrome "plug" that covers the center hole when the hard top is not is use. The good Doctor and others have it. I personally bolt my top to the deck lid cover. I think its more secure and it doesn't rattle. I also use the side bolts.
Has anyone tried to open their deck lid with the hardtop installed? Not that I'd try it but I'd like to know if it's ever been tried.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Has anyone tried to open their deck lid with the hardtop installed? Not that I'd try it but I'd like to know if it's ever been tried.
There is a guy in our club that shows his midyear with hard top mounted to the deck lid, but the deck lid is tilted up. He has the decklid open and the hardtop is caught in the latches. The front of the hardtop is held up by stainless rods so it appears like the hood just in reverse. Hope this makes sense. I don't have any pics or I would post one.
The pair of convertible-style(spear-shaped) rear bow bolts arrived over the weekend. I took the old bow studs out of the hardtop and replaced them with the new bolts, which do not require nuts. At first the driver's side didn't lock down so I loosened it a couple of turns and it fit snugly. My middle section is nice and tight so I don't have the problem some of you guys were talking about. All in all, I think it's a nice way to manage the hardtop. The only problem, which I suppose is the reason why the hardtops didn't come this way in the first place, is that it requires a little athleticism and back-strain to remove the hardtop once it's installed this way. You have to get into the rear compartment, pull the release handle, and simultaneously push up on the headliner with your shoulder to lift up the hartop enough to free the bolts, then get out and remove it. The other option I guess would be to find a way to secure the handle in the open position so that the bolts are released, then get out and remove the hartop as usual.