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My dual 11" spals have worked great. I just had 74 rewired. A new switch was installed that ran fans for a few min after engine is turned off. This was very effective at preventing fuel boil on hot summer days w/AC. The other night the fans kicked on in the middle of the night and ran my batt all the way dead.
Any ideas of where to start and how to fix? I an willing to do w/o the running on of the fans for winter. I want to help my mech and save time/money. TIA
George: I was going to mail you about finding a new Dr for my 74, The mech that was doing my rewire and other work went belly up. I should be glad that I only got screwd a little. His top guy has taken over the shop. I believe thag the switch was temp controlled. It is designed to bring temps back doen to lower temp. Worked well this sumer. The new M/C, hydraboost and VB&P callipers have never worked right! I don't know what they did, but they can't fix it. I wouldn't be suprised if the new M/C was the problem Thge last time I had one replaced, they had to go through several to find one to "pump up".
Eho does your work? I want to do some more prep for Semi-pro touring. I'm running out of mechs and am tired of experimenting. Any thoughts?
If you got the whole kit from Dewitt's just talk to them about the price of the switch. Does it also have an adjustable dial to shut it off or adjust the temp that it shuts off?
Hydraboost is good thing i wish that i had it. The whole problem is finding an honest shop
I'm not sure where it was purchased. I need to know what wrong before I can ask someone to replace anything. I think it is something simple. The system has works well before this.
A good deal to me is just getting what I paid for. I need to have a vette Pro check my car out. Know one?
Well it would be a bit of a "Bubba", but you could always wire a timer so that when the ignition is switched off, power would only be supplied for a limited period of time, say 10 minutes or so.
Not the right answer if something is defective, but if aftermarket sensors do this (as indicated above), this might be one solution. FWIW.
The simple answer is that the Spal fans did NOT have Spal switches. Don't ask me why. The new switch wouldn't fit in man w/o problems. New thermo housing fits sensor properly. I'm getting it back now. Keep you posted.
Don't have a DeWitt rad or spal fans; but I had my stock rad set up to have a thermocouple installed a couple inches below the top rad hose. I installed two 12" fans purchased from the local rod shop and bought a rheostat type switch which attaches to, both the thermocouple and my A/C. They turn on at a preset temp or if the A/C is turned on and I wired them to continue running after the engine was turned off until the temp dropped below the preset rheostat setting. My guess is, either your thermocouple or your switch is at fault; or you have the switch set too low. Turn the switch all the way up to it's highest setting to see if your problem still occurs. By isolating the only two items that would make the system continue to operate you can replace the component at fault. Being from the South, my fans run a long time after the engine is turned off on hot days but not all night. Today, after cruising the back roads they didn't even come on when I garaged it for the night. Hope this helps!!!!
Bernies Vette