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I've owned tons of old muscle cars but my 82CE is the newest of them all.Since this is a computer controlled car I'm thinking of investing in one of those code reading devices.It seems like a good idea to me so if something goes wrong and it's something that I can't or don't feel like fixing myself I'll at least know what to tell the shop.Where would I get one. If there is more than one co. making them what one is best, about how much to they cost?Thanks
You can get one that blinks, but I would get something that can read data. Snap On MT2500 is one of the best out there. You could probably get one updated to mid 90s for $500. Pro Link/MPSI/NEXIQ have the Pro Link. NEXIQ wants to concentrate on big trucks now and will not be creating any new automotive cartriges so 2000 is as new as will be available. I sold mine to buy a Snap On, got $650 updated to 2000. There are others, but if it was me, I'd get a Snap On. Look at Ebay, they are there all the time. You can buy the older cartriges for $20 or so.
Whew! That's a lot of money to check codes on an '82 Chevy. Do some more checking, I'm sure you'll find a less expensive unit that'll do the job. I picked up an OBDII reader ('96 and newer) for 39 bucks at Harbor Freight Keep looking!
Just gound terminals A-B in the under dash diagnostic plug with a paper clip. The service engine light will flash a two digit code (three time for each fault) It will start and end with 12 .. That would be .... flash............flash flash. 21 would be flash flash........... flash...Twelve is not a code but the diagnostics begin and end there. What is in between is the trouble code. There are many sources of info on the net or in lots of manuals. I have them if you wnt. A paper clip is much cheaper tha those phony code readers 'cause that is all they do. Now the tech I 1nd II from GM..... thats different and reads a lot more than just codes but is quite expensive
Don't waste your money, all codes can be retrieved by grounding the test & ground lead (1st 2) on the ALDL, the check engine light will flash all stored codes 3 times, starting w/ 12 and when 12 comes by again all codes have been displayed.
The reader is only usefull for watching in somewhat real time what the system is doing, monitoring cross counts, BLM, INT, O2 signal and so on.
You do NOT have to buy an expensive reader, you can download WinALDL by jonas bylunder (http://www.jobyteknik.homeip.net) and install the software on your laptop, then solder together the ridiculously simple connector and you are done.
Actually code 12 IS a code, however because of the system design it's always tripped. 12 is a no rpm signal fault code but when you switch the ign. on the engine won't crank > no signal > code tripped. This makes diagnosing the real Code 12 a PITa but it can still be seen w/ scanner when the engine is running and the rpm field is displaying zero. 12 is used as a marker to see if the diagnostics are working and to see when the begin of the code display sequence starts.
Hey TT that is an awesome webpage but I couldn't find the links to the software or circuit board. Any idea where it is.
Thanks.
Pete
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
Don't waste your money, all codes can be retrieved by grounding the test & ground lead (1st 2) on the ALDL, the check engine light will flash all stored codes 3 times, starting w/ 12 and when 12 comes by again all codes have been displayed.
The reader is only usefull for watching in somewhat real time what the system is doing, monitoring cross counts, BLM, INT, O2 signal and so on.
You do NOT have to buy an expensive reader, you can download WinALDL by jonas bylunder (http://www.jobyteknik.homeip.net) and install the software on your laptop, then solder together the ridiculously simple connector and you are done.
Actually code 12 IS a code, however because of the system design it's always tripped. 12 is a no rpm signal fault code but when you switch the ign. on the engine won't crank > no signal > code tripped. This makes diagnosing the real Code 12 a PITa but it can still be seen w/ scanner when the engine is running and the rpm field is displaying zero. 12 is used as a marker to see if the diagnostics are working and to see when the begin of the code display sequence starts.
Don't waste your money, all codes can be retrieved by grounding the test & ground lead (1st 2) on the ALDL, the check engine light will flash all stored codes 3 times, starting w/ 12 and when 12 comes by again all codes have been displayed.
The reader is only usefull for watching in somewhat real time what the system is doing, monitoring cross counts, BLM, INT, O2 signal and so on.
You do NOT have to buy an expensive reader, you can download WinALDL by jonas bylunder (http://www.jobyteknik.homeip.net) and install the software on your laptop, then solder together the ridiculously simple connector and you are done.
Actually code 12 IS a code, however because of the system design it's always tripped. 12 is a no rpm signal fault code but when you switch the ign. on the engine won't crank > no signal > code tripped. This makes diagnosing the real Code 12 a PITa but it can still be seen w/ scanner when the engine is running and the rpm field is displaying zero. 12 is used as a marker to see if the diagnostics are working and to see when the begin of the code display sequence starts.
As for the ALDL plug, he just presses pins into the ALDL but you can buy an ALDL connector, ease scan sells cables, just cut the UTP connector off and w/ a DMM see what color lead leads to what pinout and solfer the stuff onto that, works like a champ. I once (a long time ago) built a couple of connectors for diacom, they wroked great but WinALDL is so much nicer.
Last edited by Twin_Turbo; Nov 11, 2004 at 10:21 AM.
Oh and far as R3 goes, if you install a dial **** that switches between different resistors you can even force the ECM into a certain mode. Jonas mentions
open: normal mode
short: field service mode
10K special mode or ALDL mode (ignoring run timers, idle forced at 1000 rpm, fixed iac pos)
3,9K = backup mode = limp home mode. Major component failure.
i also use what twin turbo is talking about for my tuned port motor in my 73,when i dont want to bring home my scanner i just hook up my cable i made and plug it into my third computer in the garage and see what its doing.
I You do... Insert the paper clip or jumper with the ignition OFF, then turn the igniton back on and start counting the flashes. Short spaces between digits and long spaces between codes. Starts and ends with 12. 12 is actually a code telling you that the diagnostics ar beginning, (Key on but no distributor reference) After you retrieve the codes clear the memory by disconnecting the battery for a few seconds. Now the codes that are reset (if any) by driving or starting the engine will be the current codes. Most codes clear themselves if the fault does not re-occur within 50 re-starts. Got it?
You can insert it with the ignition on, not a problem, it will enter diagnostics mode immediately. If you jumper the thing with the engine running the light will flash cross counts (when the voltage passes 0.45V. When cold A warmed up (about 600F) sensor will not spend any time at 0.45V (the zirconia is permeable for oxygen and the voltage that the sensor produces is a result of a potential difference due to oxygen concentration differences in outside air and exhaust gas). To probe the sensor the ECM sends out a .45V bias voltage signal to the sensor during warmup, if the sensor is not warm the circuit is not complete and the ECM sees a .45V on the wire, when it differs from that the ECM knows the sensor is warmed up and closed loop is entered. There's more to that Check Engine light than a lot of people know about
I suppose that this software is safe and won't damage my computer, but can I get all the data I can with a reader? Sure a reader is a big investment, but it is a powerful tool. And the OBD2 readers can get generic data, but can't turn things on and off. With my Snap-On I can move the fuel gauge, turn the air pump or EGR on and off, or any number of things. I guess it all depends on how much you intend to use it and how many parts you are willing to change.
For OBD I, I use the paper clip method and look up the code in the shop manual. The manulas usually includes a flow chart on what to check with that code.
I bought the $39 OBD II code reader from Harbor Freight. Works fine.
What you dont get with either of these are actual readings from the sensors that help indicate the problem for the code.
Gary