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I've looked on Ebay and there are several no name roller lifters being sold. I think I'm going to get a set of 1.6, but not sure what to get. I've handled some Pro-forms before and was not impressed at all-the roller tip seemed to drag. The hi-dollar Cranes were pretty nice, but I'd like to stay under $200. Any help?
I have the Comp Cams steel roller rockers. Nice pieces. New Crane shaft mounts using a dry film lube instead of rollers are interesting as well but big $$$.
I use Harland Sharp 1.5s (bought used for $50!) with no problems. Don't forget if you go with 1.6, you'll need to check geometry and possibly change pushrod length to keep the roller centered on the valve.
I use Harland Sharp 1.5s (bought used for $50!) with no problems. Don't forget if you go with 1.6, you'll need to check geometry and possibly change pushrod length to keep the roller centered on the valve.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I was informed yesterday by my father in law that he is buying me a set of Harland Sharp RR. He asked me if I was ok with that. Of course I said yes. But I know very little about them. Any one using them on a driver and what kind of life can be expected out of them?
i've got the comp pro magnum roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, and polylocks here. Remember they do need pushrod guideplates installed unless they're self aligning, which may or may not mean machining the head and adding screw in studs.
Also remember these baby's are noisy, especially if you're running solid lifters. I love the clickity clickity click.
Checking geometry is important, what is means it looking at the sweep of the roller over the valve stem, it should stay in the center (so from valve closed to one side of the center to the other side when it opens) and never close to or over the valve stem edge, that will wear out the stem and rocker quickly. It's easily checked and if not correct you need a pushrod length checker (adjustable pushrod) to trial and error your way to the correct length.
Pro-form is definitely junk. I have a friend that ran these and several died before he took all of them off. I've had no problems with Comp pro magnum rockers (on three different engines) and I'm currently running Ersons on the Vette. Going to 1.6 ratios may also require different springs if your current ones can't handle the extra lift (check for coil bind) and also check for retainer to seal clearance. The other's advice is sound as well.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
I would recommend Harland Sharp RR for the money you can't beat them. Check the rolller on the tip of the valve but also check to make sure that the pushrods are not hitting the valve slot in block at full lift as the 1.6 ratio rockers will bring the pushrod closer towards the block than the 1.5 ratio.
I run CC Hi Tech stainless steel rockers they are pricey but also rebuildable as the aluminum are not.
Bought a set of Comp knock-off roller tips (copies). Looked good but the nuts would not fit. They were sent back for a refund. I do not see how anyone could have used them. Comp sells them with smaller size nuts that barely can be adjusted with a deep socket. Buy the genuine article in my opinion.
I have 24 comp cams chrome moly 1.6's and 8 Crower stainless steel enduro 1.65 ratio roller rockers. In use on two of my motors.
I have not had a problem with any of them and none of them required grinding to clear 1.56 diameter springs.
Many years ago I had Harland Sharp aluminum. I would never buy aluminum ever again. Yes, it was in a rowdy motor. But it just beat the needle bearings out of them in a short period of time. When I took one apart it even had dents in the aluminum from the individual steel needle bearings.
Just like headers and some other parts you can use them for a lifetime if you buy quality stuff the first time. Crower are the best!
There's a company called engine kits I think and they sell steel crower knockoffs for 200$, they may be a real good deal for the moneu, they look identical to the crower ones.
twin turbo - like most parts, there are only so many manufactures. So all the name brand companies all might get "Their" part from the same place.
No matter what any of you guys get I would suggest 7/16th studs roller rockers. The smaller 3/8th stud has to much movement at higher rpm unless your also running a stud girdle. So for the price get the stronger studs and rockers.