Frame coating ?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 482
Likes: 1
From: Brandon Manitoba
Frame coating ?
I am looking at using the Por-15 coating on my frame restoration but unsure how much to order. Can anyone tell me how many cans they may have used on thier frame ? Would you recommend its use or any alternatives that are better . Thanx Brent .
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
Check out Rust Bullet also. It looks like it requires less prep work and materials than POR-15 and offers similar protection. It comes in either silver or black and can be topcoated with any color paint. I have a quart of silver that I'm going to be using on the frame and suspension parts.
Rick B.
Rick B.
Race Director
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,814
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From: Science Bitch! Mississauga, Ontario
Canadian Events Coordinator
E-mail them support@por15.com
I'd say go for a quart.
Here is a quote from their website:
"All estimates below are made using one coat on the area being treated; however, we recommend two coats in most applications.
POR-15 application on non porous surfaces (most metals):
Approximate coverage:
* Pint = 50 sq. ft.
* Quart = 96 sq. ft.
* Gallon = 350 sq. ft.
For porous surfaces like wood & concrete, coverage will be about 20% less.
When painting on metal surfaces, we recommend at least 20oz. of Metal Ready for every quart of paint or coating you use"
I'd say go for a quart.
Here is a quote from their website:
"All estimates below are made using one coat on the area being treated; however, we recommend two coats in most applications.
POR-15 application on non porous surfaces (most metals):
Approximate coverage:
* Pint = 50 sq. ft.
* Quart = 96 sq. ft.
* Gallon = 350 sq. ft.
For porous surfaces like wood & concrete, coverage will be about 20% less.
When painting on metal surfaces, we recommend at least 20oz. of Metal Ready for every quart of paint or coating you use"
Pro
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 584
Likes: 0
From: Okemos MI
Originally Posted by Blair Winch Project
Check out Rust Bullet also. It looks like it requires less prep work and materials than POR-15 and offers similar protection. It comes in either silver or black and can be topcoated with any color paint. I have a quart of silver that I'm going to be using on the frame and suspension parts.
Rick B.
Rick B.
http://www.itkillsrust.com/
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 11,874
Likes: 263
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
i am painting my frame and everything else i can see i have gone through one qt so far (rustoleum) , i am including the floor pans in that , if you do not due floor pans i would imagine 1qt would be enough. for the floor pans and a second coat i'm going to get another qt.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
Yeah - a quart should do one nice coat with a bit left over.
I would opt for the "six pack" of 1/2 pints. You can also mix/match
colors in the six pack.
I used silver POR, since I was top-coating with black.
The silver gives a good contract, so you don't miss any
areas with the top coat or go too thin.
silver POR - let get tacky - 'dust coat' with Krylon semi-flat
black while tacky - let cure overnight - top coat fully.
It's a couple days work (lots of cleaning and waiting).
Make sure you get all the old paint off ... and clean metal should
be etched for good adhesion. Home Depot has a product similar
to Metal Ready (Must for Rust). It is Phosphoric acid ... etches
and
treats bare steel for coating. Naval Jelly works good too.
I would opt for the "six pack" of 1/2 pints. You can also mix/match
colors in the six pack.
I used silver POR, since I was top-coating with black.
The silver gives a good contract, so you don't miss any
areas with the top coat or go too thin.
silver POR - let get tacky - 'dust coat' with Krylon semi-flat
black while tacky - let cure overnight - top coat fully.
It's a couple days work (lots of cleaning and waiting).
Make sure you get all the old paint off ... and clean metal should
be etched for good adhesion. Home Depot has a product similar
to Metal Ready (Must for Rust). It is Phosphoric acid ... etches
and
treats bare steel for coating. Naval Jelly works good too.
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
From: Hilliard FL
I used almost 2 quarts of POR-15 to get two good coats on the frame and most of the metal parts that i took off.
If you let it dry on your skin....it is there for about a week!!
I used Rust-olium's Satin balck for the topcoat.
If you let it dry on your skin....it is there for about a week!!
I used Rust-olium's Satin balck for the topcoat.
Last edited by 73Gator; Nov 24, 2004 at 06:11 PM.
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Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
Originally Posted by 73Gator
I used almost 2 quarts of POR-15 to get two good coats on the frame and most of the metal parts that i took off.
If you let it dry on your skin....it is there for about a week!!
I used Rust-olium's Satin balck for the topcoat.
If you let it dry on your skin....it is there for about a week!!
I used Rust-olium's Satin balck for the topcoat.
73Gator - Great looking rolling chassis. I hope mine comes out half that good!
Rick B.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,135
Likes: 1
http://www.imperialrestoration.com/p....asp---------- call dave stubbs and ask!!!- believe me i went thru hell removing por because people think they know, and DONT- - dave will tell you all you want to know about all the different coatings and how to PROPERLY APPLY THEM- i had a guy put exhaust manifold grey on my manifolds and then he did the frt end parts-you cant do that thell rust!!- that perticular coating has to cure at 500 deg--- so it had to be removed-i cant stress enough that your end results depend on prep and using the correct procedure for the perticular coatings- there are differend end results- for different por coatings- look at all the finish products- and you may change your mind on the perticuar coating- but call and ask questions!!!--------------------------------