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Electric Fuel Pump Question

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Old Nov 26, 2004 | 02:58 PM
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Default Electric Fuel Pump Question

I'm installing an electric pump today on my truck. How do I wire it into the oil pressure switch so it disables if the oil pressure light illuminates?
I'm trying to avoid a potential fire hazzard if the engine quits, but the key remains on.
I know there is a way to do it without buying their oil press switch.

Thanks in advance
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Old Nov 26, 2004 | 03:19 PM
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I would have the sensor power a relay and use the relay contacts to power the fuel pump and oil pressure light.

Steve
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Old Nov 26, 2004 | 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by stpman
I would have the sensor power a relay and use the relay contacts to power the fuel pump and oil pressure light.

Steve
I don't know any other way around it without a relay. But isn't that what the oil pressure sensors are anyway? They are only $12 from Jegs...
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Old Nov 26, 2004 | 07:11 PM
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I have mine on the oil pressure switch and it works great.
The switch has 3 leads on it

One gets power from key on
One get power from starter during cranking
One goes to the pump to give it power needed
No relays...just like instructions

Works like a champ!
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Old Nov 26, 2004 | 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Z-man
I don't know any other way around it without a relay. But isn't that what the oil pressure sensors are anyway? They are only $12 from Jegs...
There's only one area that I can tap into, & I'm not sure if I can get a T to fit where the sender nomally goes.

I have the relay kit with the pump. I just wanted to see if anyone has an idea to wire it into the oil press sender. The problem is that the factory sender only turns on when oil pressure drops (when the dash idiot lights come on) If it did the opposite it wouldn't be a problem. I need to hook it up so when the dash lights come on, it opens the circuit.

Hmmmm.
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Old Nov 27, 2004 | 01:47 AM
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Oops - forgot it wasn't a Vette engine.

Most common relays (and probably the one in the kit) have two options for wiring the high voltage side - Normally open (NO) and normally closed (NC). Assuming that the current used to light up the idiot light is sufficient, get a relay and wire it up so that the NC portion of the circuit is used. When power is applied to the low voltage side, the relay will open and cut off the power to the pump.

Note that this will only work when the key is on (the same as when the idiot light would work). Once they key is off, power to the pump through the relay will be restored.
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Old Nov 27, 2004 | 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by 71coupe
There's only one area that I can tap into, & I'm not sure if I can get a T to fit where the sender nomally goes.
You may be able to get to an oil pressure port just above the filter arear of the block. You could leave the stock setup alone and put an closed when running/open with no pressure type sensor there. Use a relay and put the other end to the ground side of the relay trigger. Put ignition switched power to the other side of the trigger and the normally open side of the relay switched side. Give cranking power from the starter solenoid to the normally closed side of the relay. Power for the fuel pump power comes from the center of the switched side.
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Old Nov 27, 2004 | 09:18 AM
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what is your truck ???? carb / FI
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Old Nov 27, 2004 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Z-man
Oops - forgot it wasn't a Vette engine.

Most common relays (and probably the one in the kit) have two options for wiring the high voltage side - Normally open (NO) and normally closed (NC). Assuming that the current used to light up the idiot light is sufficient, get a relay and wire it up so that the NC portion of the circuit is used. When power is applied to the low voltage side, the relay will open and cut off the power to the pump.

Note that this will only work when the key is on (the same as when the idiot light would work). Once they key is off, power to the pump through the relay will be restored.
Z-man, I have the Barry Grant relay kit. The relay has 4 connections. Without pwr to it, it is normally open. It's a Hella relay & the connections are: #30: Hot batt, #86: Input pwr (that activates the relay), #85: Gnd, & #87: Output pwr for pump (after relay closes).
How do I wire it so it is NC? Also, I have a few other relays I can add in.
BTW, The truck (Isuzu 3/4 ton) was fuel injected, I'm converting it to a carb. It doesn't have a mech pump option.

Last edited by 71coupe; Nov 27, 2004 at 12:58 PM.
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 03:08 AM
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Thanks for the replys. I found out that I need a relay with 5 connections. The 5th connection is the normally closed position, like Z-man suggested.
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Old Nov 30, 2004 | 02:15 AM
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I wasn't sure what relay you had. There are so many with 5 connections and they are pretty cheap - maybe $7.
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