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fuel pressure upon startup

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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 12:52 PM
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Default fuel pressure upon startup

I'm curious as to exactly why you need to pump the aceelerator upon cold startup versus no pumping when the engine is warm. Now given there should be fuel in the lines regardless of when it was last started and cranking over develops fuel pressure instantaniously, plus there is alot of fuel in the fuel bowels there should be no difference. This problem doesn't concern me, i.e. I'm not about to fix anything but I'm curious as to why I have to pump and crank (cold) while when warm I can reach from outside the Vette into the interior and click/ boom she fires right up.

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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 01:46 PM
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Sets the choke.
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 03:27 PM
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Sure?
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 03:33 PM
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St. Jude Donor '03,'11
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a cold engine needs a much richer mixture. Pumping the accelerator dumps gas in the manifold to richen the mixture up to compensate for a choke that doesn't close enough.

i do the same thing to mine. The colder the weather the more i have to pump, but YOU wouldn't know about that.

actually fuel injection systems do the same thing when cold, give a little extra squirt from the injectors to get it going.
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 03:38 PM
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Turtle is right, Cali, being as you in San Diego apparently, yo don't notice, as you seldom see balow 60 if that....

us who see overnight lows of below 40 have a fit with carbs....another reason why DPFI is so neat....

GENE
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by paul67
Sets the choke.
If you had a manual choke, would pumping the carb still be necessary? The reason I ask is, my 67 Impala 396 needs about four or five pumps to start cold. It has a Holley carb with a provision for a manual choke. I will be putting one on soon, but it has been literally decades since I used a manual choke and want to make sure the correct procedure.
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 08:31 PM
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Pumping the go pedal shoots gas from the accel pump into the intake for that richer mix a cold engine needs to start.

Brett
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 08:39 PM
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After sitting a few weeks idle, my engine needs about 5-6 pumps just to get going. The dies, then I pump about 3 more times and she's going. Much like my '67 F'bird.
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Brettmc
Pumping the go pedal shoots gas from the accel pump into the intake for that richer mix a cold engine needs to start.

Brett

The gas evaporates from the manifold after a long time, like overnight, even if the bowl and lines are full. Pumping the pedal gives the manifold a shot of fresh gas. It also sets the choke if you still have is like most folks do...

Last edited by Z-man; Nov 28, 2004 at 08:52 PM.
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Double Aught
If you had a manual choke, would pumping the carb still be necessary?
one pump would probably do it. The butterfly restricts air to richen the mixture. The guys who have no working choke have to pump much more.
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 09:02 PM
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The choke butterfly valve is set manually by putting the gas pedal to the floor.
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 10:03 PM
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i have the same problem with mine (79 L82 with aluminum manifold, aluminum heads and headers). in addition, after pumping to start a cold engine (fully choked Q-jet with manual choke), i MUST run the engine at 1500 rpm or more for usually 15 to 30 seconds (more, the colder the outside temp) before it will hold an idle without dying. even then i may have to give it a few additional "mini pumps" to keep it going. then must be run in high idle (1300 rpm) for 5 to 10 minutes before it can be put in drive (turbo 350) with stalling and dying. is this normal with headers and no heat risers or manifold/carb heat??? is there any way to overcome this (inexpensively)?? thanks for the input.
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 11:12 PM
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Well LARS specifically said NOT to get a choke and I have to hold the idle for a minute till it runs on it's own. I could have just as easily got a choke version of the Barry Grant 750DP but he said not to so for now I sit in the car.....I'm getting the choke.
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