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I use my DC stick machine for the power supply for my TIG setup to do mild and stainless steel.
Steve
Steve,
Thanks for the information about using your Stick machine for TIG. Based on some quick reading, http://www.aws.org/cgi-bin/mwf/topic_show.pl?id=5277 it looks like my MIG welder is a poor choice for use as a TIG power supply. I really want a decent TIG setup. I'll eventually get one.
I misread your post. I thought you said get 110, when you actually said stay away from 110. I was looking at 220, so I am good there.
So now I am looking at either a Hobart 180 or a Miller 175. Is it worth the $100 or so price upgrade for infinite voltage control or are 4 settings enough?
4 settings are enough.
A quick lesson of mig. Mig is voltage control and the wire feed controls amperage. Set you mig voltage at anything and regardless of what you do it remains this value. The machine tries to increase/decrease amperage to maintain this value. The faster the wire feed the more amps is required to maintain the voltage.
Voltage from a mig is low, probably well under 50 and our work mig is about 30 volts.
A tig machine is constant current and the voltage varies. The voltage is about 80 volts.
You can use a DC stick welder for tig and touch start the arc but it contaminates the electrode causeing the end of the electrode/tungsten to round rather then stay a sharp point, but it works.
Again Mig is constant voltage
Tig is constant current.
scratch starting sucks, HF is the only way to go. When you weld AC tig the electrode will ball at the end alsu, unless you are using an inverter where you can alter the frequency for a more stable arc, with those you can ac weld with a sharp or a slightly blunt but otherwise pointy electrode resulting in a more steady arc. Now, with what Norval said everyone will clearly see why stepless wire speed control is so nice, you will be able to taylor the feed to your welding speed and tinker with how hot the weld will be (penetration)
I would order the welder and regulator ... then get the other
accesories from HF or local gas supply.
These can be converted to weld aluminum with correct shielding gas and wire.
I have never used mine on aluminum, so I can't vouch for how well it works.
I would take TT's advice.
I bought 180 Clarke through Welding Depot and I am very happy with the quality of the machine and the weld it puts down. However I have not tried Aluminum yet.
Got the Hobart 180 from weldingsuppliesatioc on Ebay. This is the Ebay store for Indiana Oxygen Company. Got it for $551 shipping and all-brand new. They do all buy-it-now sales. I got it all set up and am very impressed, wish I would have bought a MIG a long time ago. I hope to gather some steel and make a cart this weekend. I bought a 40cf bottle with a promise to get full credit for exchange on an 80cf bottle when they get some in. For a seldom user, do you think a 40cf bottle is big enough, or do I need the 80cf? Thanks for all the advice.
Got the Hobart 180 from weldingsuppliesatioc on Ebay. For a seldom user, do you think a 40cf bottle is big enough, or do I need the 80cf? Thanks for all the advice.
I got my Hobart 140 from the same place. Seems like a good guy.
As for the 40 cf bottle: That's what I have. I recently built a welding cart with quite a lot of welds. The bottle came with 1800 PSI pressure and after finishing the cart it is now 1700 PSI. So yes, for a seldom user 40 cf is plenty.