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I was also wondering what one i should use ? On the web site I saw chassis coat and rust preventitive. Could you tell me with one to use for my front end and rear end in my 73.
Here is a picture of POR-15 gloss black and provides a good before/after comparison. I did this test section before I did the entire frame and was happy with the results.
I dont plan to strip the frame to bare metal. im just wanting to put a durable paint on the front a rear suspension so when i work on it every thing should clean up nice.
gloss,,, and then gm chassis black for top coat-the only other por products i have used were----- exhaust manifold grey(ended up gettin the manifolds jet coated)-------- metal mask(goes over the 2nd coat of por-15 while tacky to give it the appereance of bare metal----and the final coat was glisten pc,,,,very durable clear coat (did this on frt end parts and rear end,half shafts,also glistened p.c. on the brake backing plates- almost forgot did the intake manifold too-as far as engine i used rattle cans of chevy orange----------------
I believe you have to strip to bare metal for the POR 15 to work. I painted my frame with it (firewall forward). I will tell you that it is tough as nails, you will not take it off without at biggggggggg fight. However, it is glossy, and will show every imperfection in its worst possible way. POR 15 is expensive, and I would not chance wasting money on it, if you aren't able to follow their directions. Also, POR tech guys are tremendously helpful, however, liability reasons prevent them from going outside of the box, if you will. They will not go out on a limb, and tell you that you can paint over their product with some other product (monetary reasons also). They will quickly tell you that they are not sure how other products will react on top of their product.
I believe you have to strip to bare metal for the POR 15 to work.
No grease oil or old paint allowed. If you prep it good - you should have great results.
If you're not stripping down to metal/light rust, then just clean it and use spray cans.
It's a lot of work, but something you'll only do once.
Carl did you use gloss or semi gloss? Also have you tried they engine paint or heard anything about it?
I've used the engine paint and was not very happy with the results. The high temp engine paint is a top coat, so your painting twice. Top coat coverage was bad..had to use two coats. Color was not vivid...discoloration on the intake after about 2hrs running.
The POR tech told me regular POR is good to 300 degrees so some engine components can be painted with reg POR.
I like Eastwood 1 Shot engine paints. Brush on, (less to take apart) hardener added, and great color & finish.
NHvette: Dave, is semi-flat different than semi-gloss?
If I understand your posting you used semi-flat on your frame in the photos--correct?
--Patrick
Yup - my frame is top coated with Krylon semi-flat black (second picture).
I originally used it as recommended by other members to closely match original.
The TAs are semi-gloss (as delivered from VanSteel).
The semi-flat has just a slight sheen to it ... looks very good to me.
-Dave
Here's another shot ... large version of my avatar:
I had same exact experience as Silv77 with the engine paint: Color not that vivid or good match; and it discolored after 2 hours of running time. However, I have always had excellent results with all Eastwood products. I now always check their product line first.
I found the POR semi-gloss (satin) to be very inconsistent in the amount of gloss it had when cured. Some parts were very glossy, some were dull. I followed their procedures exactly. I ended up buying tie coat primer from them (another $20) so that I could top coat the POR I had already applied and then topcoated it with PPG semi-gloss black that the local paint store mixed for me. I had to buy the special primer because the POR had cured for a couple of months before I topcoated it.
My advice if you go the POR15 route: Use gloss black or silver. Let it cure until tacky and then topcoat immediately with a good chassis black paint or a high quality enamel like I did. Don't waste your time with the semi-gloss POR.
Does anyone know the coolest temperature that this stuff can be successfully applied at? Reading about the fumes during application, it seems that it would be best to have the garage door open when it's being applied. It's getting a bit cool in Western New York right now.
I guess the real question is, can I apply this stuff with the garage heater on or will I kill myself from the fumes or an explosion. (Brush application not spray)