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What are you guys using. I have mine all cleaned up and am thinking white lithium lube from a spray can. Lubing the rollers and the door lock mechanism. Need to adjust the windows and door locks now.
I cleaned all my lock mechanism and the rods etc with brake cleaner and tehn used some spray can white lithium. Wiped of the excess. Everything is nice and slick.
I am about to the windows rollers etc next and was going to do the same thing.
I cleaned all my lock mechanism and the rods etc with brake cleaner and then used some spray can white lithium. Wiped of the excess. Everything is nice and slick.
I am about to the windows rollers etc next and was going to do the same thing.
White lithium and as stated above wipe up excess, it doesn't need to be thick. I believe some have even gone with out any grease.
Yeah, mrvette (gene) put his back together without any. I don't think I'd go that route though. The main problem I've seen with people using white lithium grease is over application. That's what will cause it to gum up. You just want a very thin "skin" of grease along the tracks. Also pull the motor off the regulator, wipe out the old grease, and repack it with plain old wheel bearing grease. Smash wheel bearing grease into the spring too and also at the pivot point for the regulator arms. I did this to my passenger side door just last week and now it flies up in about 1/4th the time of my driver side.
Power windows? What are they?
I'll go with a light application of White lithium lube. I did pull the crank apart and it was filled with old hard lube. Cleaned it all out and will pack it back up. Thanks
[QUOTE=stingry]I cleaned all my lock mechanism and the rods etc with brake cleaner and then used some spray can white lithium. Wiped of the excess. Everything is nice and slick. QUOTE]
Hey Gordon how hard is that job? I have to go through the dirvers door on one of the cars because it's binding up pretty good.
Thanks,
Gary
I ain't Gordon, but I can answer. It's not too bad. I did it myself, but another set of hands would have come in handy. The hardest part was getting the damned glass out. I don't know how anyone else did it, but for me the removal order was regulator, rear track, front track, glass. All the fasteners are pretty obvious. Some will tell you to mark the positions of the bolts, but at least for me this wasn't necessary because the 28 year old marks the bolts had left in the steel and paint were very obvious.
Oh and the door panel came right off, remove perimeter screws, remove pull screws, then I used a little scribe with a 90 in it to pop out the lock **** clip. And to put that clip back in, I just inserted it back into the lock ****, and shoved the **** back on the shaft. I don't know why people think you need a special tool for this.
The job is not bad at all. I did it by myself and had the glass, tracks and the lock all out in about 3/4 of an hour. My door is completly hollow now. I can't remember the sequence of events but I know my regulater came out last. I just started unbolting the glass then the channels and it all came out. It is all cleaned up now and ready to go back in. I did not mark the holes because it needs to be adjsuted so I will tackle that when it is all back in.
White lithium and as stated above wipe up excess, it doesn't need to be thick. I believe some have even gone with out any grease.
This is why I prefer to use bulk white lithium grease ratehr than the spray. I think that I can control the application better. ANY excess will act as a magnet for dirt.