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Rust Encapsulator

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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 07:30 PM
  #1  
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From: Royal Oak MI
Default Rust Encapsulator

Ok folks, got a question.

I have been reading on rust cleaning/protection. I looked at POR 15, Rust Bullet and Eastwood Rust Encap.

Everyone seems to like one or the other or all, but the only on I could find that comes in Aerosol can was eastwood.

I really liked the job Lotus76 did with the bullet, but I don't have a sprayer and cleanup seems to be a bear when all I have to do is throw away the can.

I'm leaning towards Eastwood to spray everything black and then go back with a topcoat of their gray spray on the suspension and drive components. They all require a good amount of prep work anyway, so I sure would like to just spray.

Anyone have another suggestion?
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 08:57 PM
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The Encapsulator I have used leaves a flat black finish that should topcoat well, although it doesn't fill pitted surfaces very well. Spraying does have its advantages since you can get into seams, etc. The brush-on Encapsulator is a little thick and dries quickly so it's hard to brush it into seams. Two coats are probably necessary with the Encapsulator if you brush it on (same with Rust Bullet).

I'm experimenting with both products and will post some pics of the results (hopefully soon!).

Rick B.
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 09:42 PM
  #3  
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verbanik,

Pretty sure they have these: http://www.prevalspraygun.com/home.htm
at Home Depot. You'll need to thin the canned products.
Read the other recent posts, too. There are serious health
risks to spraying it. You need the right safety equipment.

Hey Rick,
Maybe you saw one of my posts on replacing the windshield
frame (top section). The lower surface was severely pitted,
but still solid. I filled the pits with a skim coat of JB weld.
Use a plastic body spreader and then sand rough when 3/4
cured and smooth after fully cured. It came out pretty good.
I POR-ed over it, and haven't seen any problems.
Your Rust Bullet thread has re-surfaced, too.
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by NHvette
verbanik,

Pretty sure they have these: http://www.prevalspraygun.com/home.htm
at Home Depot. You'll need to thin the canned products.
Read the other recent posts, too. There are serious health
risks to spraying it. You need the right safety equipment.

Hey Rick,
Maybe you saw one of my posts on replacing the windshield
frame (top section). The lower surface was severely pitted,
but still solid. I filled the pits with a skim coat of JB weld.
Use a plastic body spreader and then sand rough when 3/4
cured and smooth after fully cured. It came out pretty good.
I POR-ed over it, and haven't seen any problems.
Your Rust Bullet thread has re-surfaced, too.
I was suprised to see the thread back on the first page. I have a few very small holes in the radiator support that I was thinking of filling with JB Weld. I'll take a few pics of the pitting that I'm talking about and post them. It's more a cosmetic issue than anything. For things like the headlight support that is bonded to the nose I'm not concerned about cosmetics. I'd like the frame to look smooth, especially where it can be seen. I think Rust Bullet will be better for things like the frame and suspension pieces, with Encapsulator reserved for areas that won't be visible, like the floorpans.

Rick B.
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 10:01 PM
  #5  
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vetteboy1976kr
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From: cincinnati oh
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I have used the Eastwood stuff several times and the projects turned out great. If you use the spray cans and then paint over it you should not be able to tell there is anything under the paint. If you get a quart and you think that it is too thick, you can thin it 10-15% and still brush it on.
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 10:09 PM
  #6  
72LS1Vette's Avatar
72LS1Vette
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From: North Easton Mass
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Originally Posted by NHvette
verbanik,

Pretty sure they have these: http://www.prevalspraygun.com/home.htm
at Home Depot. You'll need to thin the canned products.
Read the other recent posts, too. There are serious health
risks to spraying it. You need the right safety equipment.
Rust Encapsulator can be thinned with lacquer thinner for spraying. It SEEMS to be a bit safer than POR if inhaled but I wouldn't want to inhale either product. The can I have in front of me says that it contains Naptha, Xylene, Petroleum Distillate, and Toluene. None of those things sound like Fresh Air to me.

Be careful out there. folks.

Rick B.
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Old Dec 4, 2004 | 08:53 AM
  #7  
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Patrick73
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From: Tyler Texas
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Rick B: Please post the photos showing the pitting in the rad. support if you can; would like to see or learn how well the JB Weld works for you also. Thanks!-Patrick
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Old Dec 4, 2004 | 09:05 AM
  #8  
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twin turbo summed it up the best when said''DEATH IN A CAN''
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Old Dec 4, 2004 | 09:30 AM
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From: Warren Mi
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I'm working on painting the underside of my 77 while the rear suspension is out of the car.I have used Eastwood products for many years with good results. Proper temperature is important[ I live in Michigan ,even with a heated garage i use heat lamps inder the car to warm frame up, also wipe everything down with prepsol [ wax & grease remover] real good,that helps. and also it can be thinned. i toopcoat with their Epoxy black. Another trick i use is I spray the floor pan & wheelwells with a spray on bedliner , It has a nice texture ,is satin black and can be cleaned easily. It's not correct but it looks good ,Most imporant wear a good resperator as any solvent product is bad for you Good Luck Rick H.
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