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I decided to install new u-joints, in my half shafts on my 69BB. I was also going to consider the enevetable, and rebuild the trailing arms still mounted in the car, but I have learned, bad idea.... not for the average back yard mechanic!
When I pulled out my have shafts, I noticed on both sides the bolt that holds the spindle in place, was loose, I pulled out both cotter pins, and could undo the 3/4 castle bolts by hand, is this normal, are they not supposed to be torqued down to 100 foot pounds? I think somebody has been in there before, possibly already rebuilt!
They should be torqued down. Something "ain't" right. I've seen professional Corvette shops replace rear wheel bearings with the TA's still on the car. They'll use a cutting torch to get the races out.
NOT for the backyard mechanic. I'd suggest removing the trailing arms and sending them to a professional CORVETTE shop....not "Joe the Mechanic" at the gas station.
Van Steel, Bair's, and others do a superb job rebuilding them. Even if you have the arms out, it's a daunting job to try to rebuild them yourself. If requires a number of specialty tools, "set up" devices to measure end play, etc. Chuck
It's not that bad of a job but for something as critical as the rear bearings, leave it to someone that does 100's of them a year like Van Steel. You get a 5 year unlimited mileage warrenty. I was going to do mine but I wanted that peace-of-mind knowing that they were done right. BTW 100lb/ft is the correct torque for the spindle to halfshaft flange.
Well it almost seems like they were done at some point, possibly in the mid eighties, who knows maybe warranty work from GM, but they seem fine, there is no play in them, when you move spindle side to side, so maybe I should just leave them, and just go ahead with the u-joints, then re torque that nut when I go to re install half shafts. I did noticed the castle nut to be a little cross threaded, on both sides. I also noticed the edges of the half shaft flange, on one side, was worn, as though at some point the shaft flange let go inside the hub of the trailing arm, and was floping around. maybe the guy dropped the clutch, and sheered the spindle! I could of sworn they have never been apart, from the amount of rust under there, but I guess I was wrong....
Contrary to what others may say, rebuilding the trailing arms is not that tough or hard. The only thing difficult may be coming up with the cash for the tools, about $150-$175. The proceedure has been written and detailed on several threads. The price of the tools will cost as much as the parts. Bearings, seals, stainless steel e-brake hardware and shoes will run $65-$75 per side. If all you need is bearing, then figure $40 give or take per side. The vendors like VanSteel will normally do a good job, but you are paying someone to do a fairly simple project. I have no doubt that they do a good job, but if you want to save a little money plus have the tools for the future, do it yourself.
Van Steel rebuilt both of my bearing assemblies after my right rear unit experienced a 'melt down' (the bearings froze and got so hot they melted into little squares and literally dropped out on the ground. The grease got so hot it also melted).
That was back in '98. Since then, I've also gone through the calipers, half shafts, diff, trans, driveshaft... essentially finished the rest of the work that I would have done at that time if I had the $.
Van Steel also recently replaced my trailing arm bushings and performed a number of other adjustments (relocating the parking brake pulley on my custom trans xmember, resolved (rebuilt VB&P) power steering system leak, replaced left front lower control arm bushings, etc.).
I'll continue to take my tough vette suspension jobs to Van Steel. They are local here, do quality work and also offer good advice on the performance and behavior of my Vette. I'm sold!