Smart strut jam nuts keep backing off....
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
From: Dry Ridge Kentucky
Smart strut jam nuts keep backing off....
I posted this before, and I'm still having the issue. The jam nuts keep backing off on the adjustable struts, allowing them to turn and the camber to "self-adjust". (That can get disconcerting when you get out after a 80 mph run to see the wheel cocked!!!)
I know I can locktite / safety wire the nuts. This last time, one side loosened despite locktite and "turn it till it smokes and back it off a hair" torque down.
I really would rather know what would be out of whack that that would force them to loosen in the first place. I'm gonna call VBP for guidance and I hope someone here has some thoughts on it. Thanks.
I know I can locktite / safety wire the nuts. This last time, one side loosened despite locktite and "turn it till it smokes and back it off a hair" torque down.
I really would rather know what would be out of whack that that would force them to loosen in the first place. I'm gonna call VBP for guidance and I hope someone here has some thoughts on it. Thanks.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,186
Likes: 45
From: detroit area
umm
i'm curious if u can possible drill a small hole on the rod and cotter pin it with a castle nut....or just put another nut on to lock them both.... is it possible to have them on backwards...... just curious..
b
b
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 16,416
Likes: 1
From: NC,USA
Locktite has some killer stuff (I believe its either green or purple...) that you can put on it... you flat out WONT get it back off.
Not to say thats what your looking for, but it could be an option if nother else works.
Not to say thats what your looking for, but it could be an option if nother else works.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
A star shaped lockwasher or one with serrated sides will work. I am lockwiring mine but it's a lot of work and requires drilling a small hole in the lock nuts. Another option is replacing the locknuts with self locking nylon insert ones.
Last edited by Twin_Turbo; Dec 9, 2004 at 05:16 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 971
Likes: 7
From: roanoke va
Originally Posted by 1970-Bronze
I would think the double nut solution would take care of the problem if there's room.
i was thinking the same thing to do with mine. i was looking at a friends vette and ask him if he had heard of it. he said no and i looked at his and bingo one of his was backed off. so i am sure i will be double nutting mine.
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Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 23,375
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From: Virginia USA
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
A star shaped lockwasher or one with serrated sides will work. I am lockwiring mine but it's a lot of work and requires drilling a small hole in the lock nuts. Another option is replacing the locknuts with self locking nylon insert ones.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
I am going to wire the nuts on both ends together, so wire one nut, then in a helix shape go around the tube and then to the other one. The nut on one side is left hand threaded so the lockwiring is really easy.
How can VB&P lockwire it from the factory? The adjustment is different on all cars.
How can VB&P lockwire it from the factory? The adjustment is different on all cars.
Last edited by Twin_Turbo; Dec 9, 2004 at 06:59 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 23,375
Likes: 1,067
From: Virginia USA
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
I am going to wire the nuts on both ends together, so wire one nut, then in a helix shape go around the tube and then to the other one. The nut on one side is left hand threaded so the lockwiring is really easy.
How can VB&P lockwire it from the factory? The adjustment is different on all cars.
How can VB&P lockwire it from the factory? The adjustment is different on all cars.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,412
Likes: 792
From: Redondo Beach, California
I installed my VBP smart rods and their associated differential bracket last week end. When installing them I remember previous messages to this forum about troubles getting them tight. They really don't look like they're going to be easy to tighten. With all the problems discussed on this forum, I just wonder why VBP hasn't fixed this problem? I really don't want to use the full strength loctite since getting it loose can be a big problem. Particularly on these suspension parts that are subject to corrosion.
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
From: Riockwall Texas
I think you revealed the problem in the original post: "torque till it smokes, then back off a hair". The "back off a hair" 
destroys the torque effort, as the break away torque of the jam nut has been overcome, and it is now basically free to rotate with little effort. Torque it till it smokes and leave it and you'll probably not have the problem. 
destroys the torque effort, as the break away torque of the jam nut has been overcome, and it is now basically free to rotate with little effort. Torque it till it smokes and leave it and you'll probably not have the problem.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
Mine loosened ... then torqued the snot outta them ... solid since.
Originally Posted by Bob in Dallas
I think you revealed the problem in the original post: "torque till it smokes, then back off a hair". The "back off a hair" destroys the torque effort, as the break away torque of the jam nut has been overcome, and it is now basically free to rotate with little effort. Torque it till it smokes and leave it and you'll probably not have the problem.
destroys the torque effort, as the break away torque of the jam nut has been overcome, and it is now basically free to rotate with little effort. Torque it till it smokes and leave it and you'll probably not have the problem. 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 2,198
Likes: 2
From: Eastern Connecticut
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
I am going to wire the nuts on both ends together, so wire one nut, then in a helix shape go around the tube and then to the other one. The nut on one side is left hand threaded so the lockwiring is really easy.
How can VB&P lockwire it from the factory? The adjustment is different on all cars.
How can VB&P lockwire it from the factory? The adjustment is different on all cars.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,429
Likes: 14
From: CA
Safety wire (Lock wire) is the best way to go. It's very strong if done properly, but it's a good idea to practice first. You want it to be tight, and you want it to "pull" in the tightening direction. Check this link:
http://www.lrrsracing.com/RuleBook/lockwire.htm
http://www.lrrsracing.com/images/Wiretie.gif
.032" is best. 020" & .025" breaks easily when you twist it, & .041" is a pain to work with & can be brittle because of it's larger size. Give yourself a good deal of wire to work with, at least 14" - 16". The trick to making it tight is when you finish the pigtail. Grab it with you pliers near the nut and turn it another one full turn. This adds a twist right at the nut & help pull the wire through the hole and puts tension on the wire. For .032 you want 6-10 twists per inch.
If you need to loosen or redo it, you'll have to use a new piece. Always add a "pigtail" by looping around the last piece, your hands will thank you later by not getting stabbed
http://www.lrrsracing.com/RuleBook/lockwire.htm
http://www.lrrsracing.com/images/Wiretie.gif
.032" is best. 020" & .025" breaks easily when you twist it, & .041" is a pain to work with & can be brittle because of it's larger size. Give yourself a good deal of wire to work with, at least 14" - 16". The trick to making it tight is when you finish the pigtail. Grab it with you pliers near the nut and turn it another one full turn. This adds a twist right at the nut & help pull the wire through the hole and puts tension on the wire. For .032 you want 6-10 twists per inch.
If you need to loosen or redo it, you'll have to use a new piece. Always add a "pigtail" by looping around the last piece, your hands will thank you later by not getting stabbed
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,429
Likes: 14
From: CA
Here's another link.
http://www.whizwheels.com/Tips/safetywiring.html
For your strut rod application, you will need to drill a .040" - .045" hole through the nut, & 1 hole through the rod.
http://www.whizwheels.com/Tips/safetywiring.html
For your strut rod application, you will need to drill a .040" - .045" hole through the nut, & 1 hole through the rod.
Last edited by 71coupe; Dec 10, 2004 at 02:47 AM.