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I guess I didn't adjust one of my valves right because I wiped out one of the lobes on my cam. Cylinder 7 exhaust. On the bright side I did get the other 15 right The cam lobe itself is almost flat thats how I figured it out I noticed it wasn't lifting as high as the other rockers
So its back to the drawing board. I decided to try a crane cam (278) this time. I don't think this was a problem with the comp cam I was using this being my first cam swap I'm sure I screwed it up but I had such a hard time tuning the carb with that lumpy idle I went to a crane with a 114 lobe center. Hopefully that will help. I've almost got the engine back apart but its slow going It is hard to get psyched when you just got through doing it. Actually the cam swap isn't that bad except for that stupid fan shroud
Well it was my first cam swap I can't really say it was a problem with the cam. But I will say the machine shop that worked on my heads did say they've had issues with comp cams too and they go to the trouble of putting in soft springs to brake in the cam. Just food for thought.
I was very close to getting a roller cam but I need to do a gear swap. My 3.70 are too high for my tremec and torquey motor. Kind of wished I had now it would have taken all that pressure off of me in the initial startup.
I guess I didn't adjust one of my valves right because I wiped out one of the lobes on my cam. Cylinder 7 exhaust. On the bright side I did get the other 15 right The cam lobe itself is almost flat thats how I figured it out I noticed it wasn't lifting as high as the other rockers
So its back to the drawing board. I decided to try a crane cam (278) this time. I don't think this was a problem with the comp cam I was using this being my first cam swap I'm sure I screwed it up but I had such a hard time tuning the carb with that lumpy idle I went to a crane with a 114 lobe center. Hopefully that will help. I've almost got the engine back apart but its slow going It is hard to get psyched when you just got through doing it. Actually the cam swap isn't that bad except for that stupid fan shroud
You might not have done anything wrong in your cam swap, what oil did you use on startup? Please read the from the following bad cams post and determine if you might want to change lubricants for start up.
I use GM's EOS in the first oil change of new cam break in and have had no problems. "GOOD CAMS GONE BAD"
Here's the thread: http://www.4m.net/showthread.php?t=139014
Please read the entire thread it makes even more sence towards the end.
That was interesting and would have been usefull a couple of weeks ago I used 10w30 oil. What oil type and weight should I have used and where do I get this gm eos additive?
That Crane 278(#113801) with the wide 114LSA cam really favors good flowing heads, a manual transmission(or automatic with at least 2k stall), and a rear gear of at least 3.55. It has a fairly soft bottom end but kicks butt over 3k rpm. It also won't have nearly the lope, bottom or midrange of your old CC cam.
That Crane 278(#113801) with the wide 114LSA cam really favors good flowing heads, a manual transmission(or automatic with at least 2k stall), and a rear gear of at least 3.55. It has a fairly soft bottom end but kicks butt over 3k rpm. It also won't have nearly the lope, bottom or midrange of your old CC cam.
Really thats what crane suggested when I called? I do have the manual and the gears and I think the edelbrocks are pretty good flowing heads too. I was hoping for good midrange though. I hate to lose low and midrange power.
Really thats what crane suggested when I called? ....
It's a great cam, Tony. I'm using one in another car. It's just that it's not as strong as the CC 275 from idle to 3k rpm. Not that it lays down and dies but you'll notice the difference that four degrees LSA makes in the power band and the idle. It has a lope but it's not nearly as choppy as the CC. As I wrote, it's great on the top. Better get a shift light. Redline comes up real fast.
That was interesting and would have been usefull a couple of weeks ago I used 10w30 oil. What oil type and weight should I have used and where do I get this gm eos additive?
Any General Motors should have or can get EOS (engine oil suppliment), again I've been using this oil additive just for startups with new cam breakins. I talked to Dennis at Reed cams and he told me, as he said in this artical, that I couldn't go wrong using straight 50 wt Valvoline racing oil as it contains the Zinc required for proper cam lubrication. (This is information was for our nascar super truck motor, I do not see any reason it would be differant for a street motor for breakin) the statement: "If your looking for a good break in oil or running oil try TORCO MPZ. moly and Zinc." might be worth looking into also I'm just not familiar with this oil. I think the Zinc is the key for proper cam breakin.
It's a great cam, Tony. I'm using one in another car. It's just that it's not as strong as the CC 275 from idle to 3k rpm. Not that it lays down and dies but you'll notice the difference that four degrees LSA makes in the power band and the idle. It has a lope but it's not nearly as choppy as the CC. As I wrote, it's great on the top. Better get a shift light. Redline comes up real fast.
Oh Ok you had me worried there I'm glad it has some lope I did like the exhaust sound of the 275 just not the idle but I guess they go hand in hand. I really wish that 275 comp cam would have worked it had a great rpm range (2000 - 6000) although I have never really understood the recommended rpm range on the cam specs they don't seem to correspond to the desktop dyno readings at all.
bracketshark
I'll look for that oil supplement and thanks for the info.