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I work in heating and air conditioning and have for 16 years now. I would not advise cutting into your house ductwork because your unit is sized to take car of the house not your house and garage and it will cause issues with air flow and your house not staying to temp. If you do not wish to use one of the items these guys posted find a guy that works in the heating and air industry that has a corvette like all my friends have done and ask him to get one from the shop that has been pulled out of a house but is perfectly good. I have put at least 3 systems in my friends garages this year. Yes if you use a regular unit they are 220 unless you get a gas furnace then they are 110.
I went from the torpedo to a Dayton electric heater (220)
seems to do quite well. I got it through Graingers at a 10% discount from being a member of my countys farm bureua. I think it ended up being around $260
Just a comment on garage heaters. If you don't have your garage heated all the time and only use a heater when you're wrenching it could cause some minor problems with rusting. In my garage I use one of the propane fired tube heaters. It heats the garage quickly but in doing so causes the metal on the car, which does not heat as quickly as the air, to sweat. Any bolts, tie rod ends, etc. that are not painted or plated quickly rust under this condition. So my point is that it's better to either maintain a constant temperature in the garage or use a heater that heats it slowly rather than a big unit the quickly heats the air and causes the above condition. This is from experience.
Just a comment on garage heaters. If you don't have your garage heated all the time and only use a heater when you're wrenching it could cause some minor problems with rusting. In my garage I use one of the propane fired tube heaters. It heats the garage quickly but in doing so causes the metal on the car, which does not heat as quickly as the air, to sweat. Any bolts, tie rod ends, etc. that are not painted or plated quickly rust under this condition. So my point is that it's better to either maintain a constant temperature in the garage or use a heater that heats it slowly rather than a big unit the quickly heats the air and causes the above condition. This is from experience.
I Agree! It is just like taking a beer can out of the fridge - cold metal hits hot air ( room temp ) and you get instant condensation - good for beer, not vette metal.
I have a between the stud 66,000 btu natural gas heater with a 2 pseed blower. It will take a three car garage up to 70F in about 20 minutes. It has a closed flame so fumes aren't an issue and comes in either up vent or direct through wall. It fits between standard 16OC studs with no cutting. The full installation took about 1/2 day. I paid around $650. Grainger carries these in a variety of sizes, natural gas, LP or electric.
Yea but you have to deal with all the flakes, nuts, and fruits that live in the granola state
Don't worry ... the "Air Condition The Garage" thread will be up in about
6 months.
My Granite State garage-under never goes above 70 - even when it's 99 outside - no AC required.
Another comment - even if you heat the garage slowly to deter moisture
condensation, the metal parts and tools don't get warm for a very long time.
It doesn't bother me much, but some people are allergic to cold.
Here one suggestion. Since you already have the kerosene heater, use that to bring up the temperature and then use one or two electic heaters to maintain the temperature while working on the car. You could fire up the kerosene heater an hour before doing the work. If you use the small plug in electric heaters each one should be on it's on circuit since they draw about 15 amps when on high. I would also suggest that remove other vehicles from the garage so that you are not trying to heat up 3000lbs of cold steel.
Another suggestion was already mentioned. Getting a seperate oil/gas furnace for the garage or perhaps a heat pump. A heat pump is great when the temperatures are 50 degrees and above. Plus they have the advantage of cooling during the summer. I live in PA where the summers are short and not too hot so cooling is not that big of a deal. I remember being in Fla and at 9am it was in the mid 90's.
One thing that wasn't mentioned was your need for heat short term or long term (10/20 years). An investment in a better solution will cost much more upfront but will be cheaper in the long run. Electric and Propane heaters can be costly to operate versus oil or natural gas.
Just a comment on garage heaters. If you don't have your garage heated all the time and only use a heater when you're wrenching it could cause some minor problems with rusting. In my garage I use one of the propane fired tube heaters. It heats the garage quickly but in doing so causes the metal on the car, which does not heat as quickly as the air, to sweat. Any bolts, tie rod ends, etc. that are not painted or plated quickly rust under this condition. So my point is that it's better to either maintain a constant temperature in the garage or use a heater that heats it slowly rather than a big unit the quickly heats the air and causes the above condition. This is from experience.
Unless you live in Colorado. I don't have any condensation problems in the winter in the house or garage because we have almost no humidity most of the time. The humidity rarely gets above 30% in the winter and its usually only high when the snow melts.
I only heat my garage when I have to do work. It's just to expensive to keep it warm with a car going in and out everyday.
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by vettfixr
Just a comment on garage heaters. If you don't have your garage heated all the time and only use a heater when you're wrenching it could cause some minor problems with rusting. In my garage I use one of the propane fired tube heaters. It heats the garage quickly but in doing so causes the metal on the car, which does not heat as quickly as the air, to sweat. Any bolts, tie rod ends, etc. that are not painted or plated quickly rust under this condition. So my point is that it's better to either maintain a constant temperature in the garage or use a heater that heats it slowly rather than a big unit the quickly heats the air and causes the above condition. This is from experience.
i believe the fan unit i created to recirculate the air reduces or eliminates this....i don't really seem to have have this problem...
Last winter I used a harbor freight propane heater and it was O.K. but you needed good ventalation and was always refilling the BBQ tank.
This year I moved up to this natural gas heater. Its sweet
$139.00 at Home Depot
Three car garage 68 degrees + heats for penneys an hour...
That's the kind I would recommend. We've got about 7 of them around here and they work great. Get one at Menards, Home Depot or wherever, but you should get one with a thermostat. The cheapest ones work like turning a propane torch up or down.
man, so many heaters to choose from....... i like the electric ones since i already have a pipe to the garage but not sure if i can fit 4 wires through it to run a 220 service...... i'll look tomorrow.......
If your garage isn't well insulated you could have problems getting it warm enough with an electric. On a typical 20A circuit you'll only be able to get around 10,000 BTU with a 220V heater. You can install multiple heaters but your up front cost might get a little high. My .02.
i use it to heat an uninsulated 20 x 20 (the front of my garage) and it will run you out. it's super quiet and easy to intall, and cheap @ $292 i've worked in 20 deg. weather in a t-shirt!
Last edited by nxfirebird; Dec 16, 2004 at 10:12 PM.