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I have a BB hood for the 69 project that I need to strip. I started out using Capt Lee's Chem stripper but it was just a mess, whatever paint system is on this hood is hard as a rock. Capt Lee's stripper just turns paint into a gooey bubble gum mess that just smears when trying to scrap off. I then went to 60 grit on the DA and that just seems to ride on top and not really cut into paint unless you really bear down on the DA. I stripped the Hood on my 66 using Capt Lee's and it was a very easy process, this hood is being a PITA!!!
That leave me with going back to the Chem stripper or trying razor blades. 2 question:
1. What type of razor blade and holder works best?
2. Any other ideas?? I'm thinking the paint system is Imron due to the hardness of it and the age.
haven't stripped mine yet.... but have read quite a few threads on doing so.... I can only answer one question of yours....
It seems the most popular razor blade holder people have used is needle-nose vise grips.... as it gives you a good handle... and allows you to get the blade down at a shallower angle to the fiberglass.
My 69 is in the shop at the moment having the lower valance replaced and a crack in the fender repaired. The entire front end (forward of the doors) will be painted.
I was in the shop the other day as they stripped the paint from the fenders. They were using a reinforced razor, like one you'd use for any household chore, but they had a variety of handles which they would change depending where they were. The paint just came right off. Not surprisingly, they made a few knicks in the fender as they went along, but those will be puttied, sanded and primed over before painting anyway. I was surprised at how simple it was.
I also have an old 76 coupe, with original paint, that needs repainting. I asked where I might get the handles if I decide to strip it myself, and they said any good autobody supply store should be able to get them. If not, they though they could get me what I needed directly. I think I may go for it.
sounds like a really hard paint like an acrylic urethane...I know i'll get flamed for this, but I say use some Air Craft stripper...be fast and wipe that old paint right off. I've used aircraft stripper on my car with no problems whatsoever.
sounds like a really hard paint like an acrylic urethane...I know i'll get flamed for this, but I say use some Air Craft stripper...be fast and wipe that old paint right off. I've used aircraft stripper on my car with no problems whatsoever.
No flame from me. I think that a number of Forum members have done this successfully. The risk is in not being able to get it all off afterwards. This could affect the fiberglass and would definately affect the new paint job.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I used a razor blade on mine. I got my set up at Wally World. It is just the metal handle that holds a double edged blade like you might use to shave with or remove paint from windows. Worked pretty good for me. I have also heard that you need to buy Made In The USA blades. I lucked out and that is where mine were made.
I just finished stripping my '68 with Aircraft Stripper and it worked fine. We used about 3-4 applications per section with a plastic scrapper and the old paintprimer came right off. Then used water/Scotch-Brite and rubbed off the excess. Next, I applied acetone to thoroughly clean the surface and rinsed with lots of water and towel dried. The important thing is to NOT get to the Gel-Coat with the Aircraft Stripper. If you do make a mistake just rinse. During the pre-paint process use the best sealer /primer you can find(can't remember the name right now)-it's about $300/gal. I've seen show finishes that have been done using this process and they are gorgeous. I'll find out the sealer name and let you know. I also taped around the doors, deck, etc. to the keep the stripper from running into the gutters. Then I'll use a DA to clean up those areas to get the paint off.
Its the cleanest way , now I think I,d go media blasting for the whole car ... I,m almost ready to paint ..Started this project along time ago ..
I think I would have done all engine and suspension mods and painted last if I was to to it over again
Sounds like a BC/CC. I had the same problem, hard as nails clear coat, plus at least 2 layers of older paint under that. I think a razor blade is a good option for lacquer, but I think you'll have little success with a clear coat.
I used a fiberglass-safe stripper, left it on awhile, until the clear was at least 'soft', then I used a plastic scraper to scape the gunk off. It will not bubble or crinkle the way lacquer does. Keep it wet, don't let it evaporate.
I used the stripper to get the clear off, and then used a DA with 150 & 320 grit to go down to the original primer.
I used a razor blade on mine. I got my set up at Wally World. It is just the metal handle that holds a double edged blade like you might use to shave with or remove paint from windows. Worked pretty good for me. I have also heard that you need to buy Made In The USA blades. I lucked out and that is where mine were made.
Razor blades are so easy, clean and quick I'll never use paint stripper again.
I use a shop vac whilst stripping, then there is zero mess. Nada
I've done very hard paint with the razor and wile you have to change blabes often it still works well.
I'm in the process of stripping mine with razor blades, so far it been a very easy and clean process. I've got some nicks here and there along the way, but nothing a little filler can't correct. Get a good scraper don't scimp out, it definately makes the job go easier. I could not deal with the mess and clean-up involved with chemical strippers.
Razor blade w/ needle nose vise grips, hold the grips so you have a shallow angle of attack so you don't gouge the fiberglass. I prefer these razor blades:
I cast my vote for the razor blade. Just finished my car and all that was left were a few nicks. some of which sanded out. Also if you use stripper, be careful to not strip down to the putty. If you touch the putty with the stripper, you will almost have to remove the putty. It will penetrate and ruin anything you put over it. The whole car took me about 20 hours. And the remaining primer I used for the first block sand.
TJ
Its the cleanest way , now I think I,d go media blasting for the whole car ... I,m almost ready to paint ..Started this project along time ago ..
I think I would have done all engine and suspension mods and painted last if I was to to it over again
Great video !! Makes it look so easy. Hate the fumes from chemicals
How about on curved surfaces like fenders ? What do you do aroung the taillights? What do expect to pay for media blasting?