When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
WTFO!!?? I thought this would be straight forward and a 20 minute job.
Well I have the lower right side dash out, and center guage bezel out with the guage pack hanging by 100 plus wires and of course the CD/MP3 sterio with wires hanging all over the place. I opened a can of worms. One the sterio is loose in it's mounting, easy fix but more importantly the bezel which costs $329.99 http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...AQTA288T8LCPKC (and I don't want to spend that) is cracked on the upper right hand corner where the frame is thinest, other than that it's perfect.
I have some ideas but how can I repair that?
1. rough up edge that doesn't show and apply liquid metal
2. rough up edge that doesn't show and get someone to do a small tig weld on that edge.
3. drill 2 countersunk screws and attach on either side of the break with a screwed in thin metal plate.
Your ideas? (will post pics tonight).
Last edited by Cali,68,L-79; Dec 29, 2004 at 02:09 PM.
Mine is cracked in the same place, I just put it back in and you cannot tell at all, I did bend it slight so that the edges where it cracked catch on each other when installed. $300 was a bit much for me too for a replacement.
I have some welding rod that alows me to weld aluminum and pot metal with my acyteylene torch. It works pretty dang good. I got it at the state fair, but it's also available at welding shops ( but the state fair stuff is better) I think it may be possible too use it with a propane torch too.
You have to repaint the housing, but thats easy...
I have some welding rod that alows me to weld aluminum and pot metal with my acyteylene torch. It works pretty dang good. I got it at the state fair, but it's also available at welding shops ( but the state fair stuff is better) I think it may be possible too use it with a propane torch too.
You have to repaint the housing, but thats easy...
WTFO!!?? I thought this would be straight forward and a 20 minute job.
Well I have the lower right side dash out, and center guage bezel out with the guage pack hanging by 100 plus wires and of course the CD/MP3 sterio with wires hanging all over the place. I opened a can of worms. One the sterio is loose in it's mounting, easy fix but more importantly the bezel which costs $329.99 http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...AQTA288T8LCPKC (and I don't want to spend that) is cracked on the upper right hand corner where the frame is thinest, other than that it's perfect.
I have some ideas but how can I repair that?
1. rough up edge that doesn't show and apply liquid metal
2. rough up edge that doesn't show and get someone to do a small tig weld on that edge.
3. drill 2 countersunk screws and attach on either side of the break with a screwed in thin metal plate.
Your ideas? (will post pics tonight).
I tried "alumaweld" on mine..didnt work...I think it had soemthing to do with the fact that the bezels are pot metal by the look of it and once broken the edges oxidize.
I went and got a piece of galvanized sheet steel..cut out two pieces bonded one with a 3M epxoy to one side and then once dry, glued it to the other side...fixed it really nice and I even used a spot of filler to hide the rest of the gap...repaint with krylon semi flat and you cant even see it.
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by lvrpool32
I tried "alumaweld" on mine..didnt work...I think it had soemthing to do with the fact that the bezels are pot metal by the look of it and once broken the edges oxidize.
I went and got a piece of galvanized sheet steel..cut out two pieces bonded one with a 3M epxoy to one side and then once dry, glued it to the other side...fixed it really nice and I even used a spot of filler to hide the rest of the gap...repaint with krylon semi flat and you cant even see it.
I just finished removing my entire dash, gauge cluster and console and found my cluster frame intact. From my experience JB Weld would be my choice to repair the frame. After scuffing the bonding surface with emory, I'd cut a piece of welding rod and set it into some JB Weld to hold your frame together.
From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
Originally Posted by Red 69
I just finished removing my entire dash, gauge cluster and console and found my cluster frame intact. From my experience JB Weld would be my choice to repair the frame. After scuffing the bonding surface with emory, I'd cut a piece of welding rod and set it into some JB Weld to hold your frame together.
I tried JB weld when I did mine a few months ago ... it only held until the part was installed. Then the other side broke off too
I just finished removing my entire dash, gauge cluster and console and found my cluster frame intact. From my experience JB Weld would be my choice to repair the frame. After scuffing the bonding surface with emory, I'd cut a piece of welding rod and set it into some JB Weld to hold your frame together.
Now that sounds perfect!! Good call. Thanks all for the advice.
One question you used Krylon semi flat and I had thought about this. When I use spray paints I never achieve that flat smooth surface appearance. I always get that bumpy "orange peel" look no matter what brand I use. How does the factory paint trim items or for that matter how does anyone paint a metal object and get that smooth glossy appearance without color sanding and buffing for hours. Case in point the file cabinet in my office is gloss black and smooth. You can't tell me the file cabinet company has a body shop that buffs file cabinets during production. How is this done?
Try using an auto body silicone and grease remover before painting. Fisheyes are usually the result but orange peel also. The professionally done cabinets are usually baked besides being perfectly clean before painting.
Fisheyes are the term I was trying to remember. My worry is I have only a few scratches and I rather put the bezel back together broken, becuase you can barely see the break, then sand it, degrease it and paint it and it comes out looking like crap like every other paint job I've done.
Paragon has a Xmas special on the bezel's for '68's for $189 plus shipping. I just got my new one today and it wasn't broken-the first one I ordered was and they promptly sent me a replacement. I haven't started to install it yet but will have a friend help and hopefully it won't break. Poor Design.
Paragon has a Xmas special on the bezel's for '68's for $189 plus shipping. I just got my new one today and it wasn't broken-the first one I ordered was and they promptly sent me a replacement. I haven't started to install it yet but will have a friend help and hopefully it won't break. Poor Design.
After contemplating welding/ repainting and the reality it will come out looking like *** I decided to put it back in as is. The crack is hard to see and I have the ammeter in and working and everything else is repainted and ready to go back in.
This rods are not for welding, but soldering alu and pot metal.
The melting point of the rod is far below the one from alu or pot metal and I would give it a try.
I already soldered a loose alu radiator filler neck back with it and it worked perfectly.
Next , I will try to fill the windshield corner molding corrosion spots with it and get them replated. You know, the 68 type once are not available anymore.
Fellas, We know the 68 has a smooth texture on the face of the bezel. The 69 and later same style had pebbled. I took a used 69, form a swap meer for $20, and just sanded it smooth, used sandable primer from a can, then painted it with flat black
The chrome edges are easy. The whole thing is chrome under the black. To get the chrome egdes/lettering back after painting, use acetine on a small rag, or lightly sand over the unwanted blackened area
An easier fix id this. I have broke mine at the top bridge as well. What I did was take a small diameter, old drill bit. I placed it on the inside lip, and epoxed the entire length of the bit on the inside lip to hold the break. Works great. To a little touch up on the outside where the crack is, no one will ever notice. 3 years now, still good to go
I too have tried to take it to have it welded, brazed, etc. Its made of some alloy, not aluminum, and no one I took it to could do the job