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I replaced the valve seals on all cylinders, along with the O ring just under the keepers.. I replaced the spark pligs, the wires, dist cap and rotor. And I set the valve lash to 1 full turn past zero play on the pushrod.
Now I have a wicked backfire through the carb.....
Also...I reset the base timing, so that is off also... But I got to TDC on #1 and adjusted the distributor to the #1 cylinder so that should start the car. But I have backfire thru the carb big time.
Vac advance is not connected and I never removed the carb from the intake. I am sure I dont have a vacuum problem. I am trying to start this on base timing alone, with a little advance by hand...
Most of the time a beginner will misunderstand the lash procedure where it says "play" in the pushrod. The pushrod will be able to move up and down between your fingers as you tighten the adjusting nut to zero lash. As you get close to zero, the pushrod will not be able to move up and down anymore. It WILL still be able to spin very easily though so that is the key. The pushrod is just not able to move up and down freely anymore. You can tighten the nut 1/4 of a turn farther and that is it.
If you are tightening the nut till the pushrod is tight when spinning, you are probably going too far and the valve will be off the seat causing backfiring.
Loosten all the nuts a couple of turns and try again.
While I agree a half turn is enough tighter after zero lash, the Chevrolet manual calls for a full turn tighter.
It is possible that when you were runnning loose your lifters did not fully extend prior to tightening them. That could cause you to have a valve hanging open causing a backfire.
Most of the time a beginner will misunderstand the lash procedure where it says "play" in the pushrod. The pushrod will be able to move up and down between your fingers as you tighten the adjusting nut to zero lash. As you get close to zero, the pushrod will not be able to move up and down anymore. It WILL still be able to spin very easily though so that is the key. The pushrod is just not able to move up and down freely anymore. You can tighten the nut 1/4 of a turn farther and that is it.
If you are tightening the nut till the pushrod is tight when spinning, you are probably going too far and the valve will be off the seat causing backfiring.
Loosten all the nuts a couple of turns and try again.
-Mark.
The novice will spin the push rod and this is wrong. Long after all play is taken out the rod still spins.
Move it up and down until you have no play or close and then absolute maximum 3/4 of a turn maximum.
Also...I reset the base timing, so that is off also... But I got to TDC on #1 and adjusted the distributor to the #1 cylinder so that should start the car. But I have backfire thru the carb big time.
I need help..
That is another possible cause of the backfiring. Engines run like crap with zero (or less) advance. With the driver's side valve cover off, rotate the engine until both #1 valves are closed and the 0º on the damper is at about 10º-12º on the tab. Mark the #1 position on the distributor housing and align the rotor with it. That should get you within a couple degrees of proper timing until you can get a light on it.
I also agree with the other suggestions that have been made. Too tight a valve lash won't allow the valves to fully close and mixed up wiring will also cause your symptoms.