Rust removal
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,132
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Rust removal
Has anyone tried using Oxalic acid for rust removal on their corvette frames? I have a thin layer of rust on my frames and was wondering if it is dangerous to use Oxalic acid to remove the rust.
After treatment with the Oxalic Acid, I plan on putting a coat of POR-15 METAL-READY which probably contains phosphoric acid ( http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=177 ) and finishing it off with a coat of POR-15.
Thanks,
Michael
After treatment with the Oxalic Acid, I plan on putting a coat of POR-15 METAL-READY which probably contains phosphoric acid ( http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=177 ) and finishing it off with a coat of POR-15.
Thanks,
Michael
Racer
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 307
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From: Twin Falls Idaho
My sister-in-law used some of that POR 15 on her Landcruiser, and it did not hold up very well. There was some peeling on the frame, and I think she was pretty upset by the whole deal.
I don't know if that's normal for the product, and perhaps it was surface prep that casued this to happen. If you use it, I hope it works out better for you. Best of luck to you!!
I don't know if that's normal for the product, and perhaps it was surface prep that casued this to happen. If you use it, I hope it works out better for you. Best of luck to you!!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
Surface prep is crucial for POR15.
If you plan to use metal ready, why Oxalic acid first ?
You are correct: Metal ready is Phosphoric acid solution with zinc.
I have been using a cheaper alternative: Must for Rust at Home Depot.
It is a Phosphoric acid solution without zinc.
If you need it to sit and eat the rust for a bit, go with Naval Jelly.
It is thick enough to stay on vertical surfaces and doesn't dry up before it is done working.
NOTE: POR15 will not stick well to paint. It sticks GREAT to a thin layer
of rust. Acid treating is generally required for clean shiny metal, like
areas that have had paint removed. Lightly rusted areas should be
wire brushed and washed. Acid treating is OK, but not required.
If you plan to use metal ready, why Oxalic acid first ?
You are correct: Metal ready is Phosphoric acid solution with zinc.
I have been using a cheaper alternative: Must for Rust at Home Depot.
It is a Phosphoric acid solution without zinc.
If you need it to sit and eat the rust for a bit, go with Naval Jelly.
It is thick enough to stay on vertical surfaces and doesn't dry up before it is done working.
NOTE: POR15 will not stick well to paint. It sticks GREAT to a thin layer
of rust. Acid treating is generally required for clean shiny metal, like
areas that have had paint removed. Lightly rusted areas should be
wire brushed and washed. Acid treating is OK, but not required.
Last edited by NHvette; Dec 30, 2004 at 12:22 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,132
Likes: 0
Oxalic acid eats rust better than phosphoric acid does. I was going to treat it first with Oxalic acid, then put a coat of phospohoric acid on it to prep the metal (when phosphoric acid is done eating the rust, it reacts with the rust to form a thin layer of zinc), afterwards, I was going to paint it with por-15.
