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I just installed a new heater core and the new one leaks!!! It is not the hoses, it's leaking into the interior. I am not going throught this again, going to bypass it. Question, do I have to keep a short hose between the intake and waterpump heater connections, or can I seal them off completly with plugs? I have a small block.
That'll make you say a few choice words. I just replaced mine, too. The first heater core I bought didn't fit right, but I got a refund. Second one fit better and fortunately doesn't leak. Before I replaced the heater core, there was a hose from the water pump to the intake manifold, but I do recall a thread on this forum where others said this was optional.
That is too bad. To think of all the work that you did, and then find out that it is leaking. That would really upset me.
I have read on this topic about people doing a bench test on the heater core to see if it leaks BEFORE putting it into the car.
My question is.....how do you bench test the core before putting it in? Do you hook it up to the engine with long heater hoses, and leave the core outside of the car? That would mean doing this before tearing up the inside of the car.
I changed mine out last year. Read the posts about testing AFTER replacing. Scared me a bunch to think it would be no good. But I bought my heater core and radiator from a local radiator shop. There aren't too many of them left. They press. checked both cores before they gave them to me.
You can do which ever is easiest. Plugging both connections shouldn't cause the water pump to cavitate. When you turn the heater off the valve stops the flow of water to the heater core which is what you would be doing if you plug both places. I know of many people, including myself, that have installed ballcock valves on both lines so that residual heat from the engine can't work its way back to the heater core with no ill effects to the pump or the system. Sorry about your leaking core.
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by kdf1986
That is too bad. To think of all the work that you did, and then find out that it is leaking. That would really upset me.
I have read on this topic about people doing a bench test on the heater core to see if it leaks BEFORE putting it into the car.
My question is.....how do you bench test the core before putting it in? Do you hook it up to the engine with long heater hoses, and leave the core outside of the car? That would mean doing this before tearing up the inside of the car.
kdf
heres an easy way.... fill it with fluid....cut a bicycle tire tube in half and hose clamp the ends to the hose fittings.... hook up bike pump and pressureize to the working pressure of the system...(something like 13-15lbs)...and walk away....see if it holds pressure via a pressure gauge or leaks...,
I just installed a new heater core and the new one leaks!!! It is not the hoses, it's leaking into the interior. I am not going throught this again, going to bypass it. Question, do I have to keep a short hose between the intake and waterpump heater connections, or can I seal them off completly with plugs? I have a small block.
when 2 shut off are installed (one on each hose) inline to shut-off the water to the heater core--for whatever reason----is this not the same as pluging-off the 2 hoses???? I don't see why you can't plug them.....BUT... I have been WRONG before....
after reading all the warnings posted here before, when I replaced the wifes heater core (1973 w/AC) I placed the replacement in a bucket of water and pressurized it with my air compressor... looking for air bubbles.
I don't know how thorough this test is, but the replacement core didn't leak any air bubbles during the test, and didn't leak after installing in the car either.
When two shut off valves are installed, one on each hose it stops water flow and heat transfer just as if you plugged both ends with pipe plugs; period. The water pump will not cavitate either way you do it. When the thermostat is closed allowing the rad. to cool the water mixture the water pump doesn't stop pumping for that time; it merely tries to pump water unsuccessfully until the thermostat allows it to do so. This isn't rocket science and whether you stop the flow at the source or ten inches away the same thing happens; fluid stops flowing at the source, just as if it were plugged there. Again, its your car and either way will be fine. Go to corvettefaq.com for more on this if you want to research it further. Happy vetting!!!!
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by Mike Mercury
after reading all the warnings posted here before, when I replaced the wifes heater core (1973 w/AC) I placed the replacement in a bucket of water and pressurized it with my air compressor... looking for air bubbles.
I don't know how thorough this test is, but the replacement core didn't leak any air bubbles during the test, and didn't leak after installing in the car either.
i like this idea even more then mine..air submegerd in water will certainly show off any leaks....how did you cap of the ends and make an air hose fitting? ....the bike tire is easy with the schrader valve already in it....
I have an air gun nozzle with a big rubber tip that sealed into one end. The other end I capped off with my utility sinks rubber stopper (holloow on underneath side) - using a hose clamp around it.
It was a little ackward, but I felt confident I had proven enough
that it was safe to install.
When two shut off valves are installed, one on each hose it stops water flow and heat transfer just as if you plugged both ends with pipe plugs; period. The water pump will not cavitate either way you do it. When the thermostat is closed allowing the rad. to cool the water mixture the water pump doesn't stop pumping for that time; it merely tries to pump water unsuccessfully until the thermostat allows it to do so. This isn't rocket science and whether you stop the flow at the source or ten inches away the same thing happens; fluid stops flowing at the source, just as if it were plugged there. Again, its your car and either way will be fine. Go to corvettefaq.com for more on this if you want to research it further. Happy vetting!!!!
Bernie
I agree this is the best long term solution because its nice to shut off the water flow in the summer.
Given the option of plugs vs hose loop, I choose plugs. Its easier. The hose loop option works but you'll need to handle the change in hose size.
When two shut off valves are installed, one on each hose it stops water flow and heat transfer just as if you plugged both ends with pipe plugs; period.
I guessed I missed the discussion about this. I installed a 1976 or 1977 vacuum operated heater hose valve (on one side only) of the 1973. It worked perfectly. the heater core never heats up with vacuum present. But, there is a flow direction "arrow" cast in the plastic body of the valve, and I made sure to install it in the proper direction.
What does adding a second valve accomplish or cure (or are we strictly talking about complete core bypass)?
after reading all the warnings posted here before, when I replaced the wifes heater core (1973 w/AC) I placed the replacement in a bucket of water and pressurized it with my air compressor... looking for air bubbles.
I don't know how thorough this test is, but the replacement core didn't leak any air bubbles during the test, and didn't leak after installing in the car either.
You want to be careful with this. The core is not designed to hold 100 psi. You probably don't want to exceed 20-25 psi. I liked the bicycle tire idea. Pressurize it and submerge that in water might be the best idea.
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by Mike Mercury
I
What does adding a second valve accomplish or cure (or are we strictly talking about complete core bypass)?
even with my shut off valve clsoed i still get some heat through the heater core from the transfer of heat through the water in the other line....i think the area you live in dictates how much you need to stop all water flow.....the hotter it gets where you are the more ways you look to stop the heat flow...for a couple of day this summer i didn't even drive the car during the day because it was just too hot....
even with my shut off valve clsoed i still get some heat through the heater core from the transfer of heat through the water in the other line....
interesting - I hadn't thought of a conduction source of heat.
during the middle of the last summer is when I installed the vacuum operated valve. So I got a good before/after comparison (especially since the 1973 is the wifes car and I get to be the passenger).
It did make a huge difference. Enough that I can probably let it go as is. My wife only likes to drive the 1973 with the T-Tops off - so I'm sure that's helping with the slight amount of heat that may still be seeping through.
Last edited by Mike Mercury; Dec 31, 2004 at 12:36 PM.