I broke down and got another 24 square feet. I used a good part of it in the battery boxes. While I didn't intend to do the boxes/storage bins I could not do half the job.
I also pulled one door panel off, removed the inspection cover at the bottom of the door and covered the lower 1 foot of the door with dynamat. I also did part of the inside of the door.
I have a source for 12 inch wide duct insulation and have 45 square feet on order for Friday. I will put that over all the dynamat and then the new rugs. The doors will get a generous coating over the dynamat too and after the inspection cover is replace I will cover that too.

How does it work?? While only the lower 1 foot is covered, the inspection cover is off leaving a big hole but the difference is really noticable.
I rapped on the outer door skin with my knuckles and the door with the dynamat really sounds solid while the other one is really hollow.
No comparison at all and the door is only partly finished.
I think it is going to be well worth the effort doing the doors.
I was at the Cascar shop on Monday and looked under the race car and a good part is covered with the duct insulation. I asked Roger about it and he does it for heat. The headers pass under the tunnel out the passengers side and really heat the tunnel. This stuff really keeps it alot cooler and he claims will not burn no matter what.
It comes in 12 inch x 15 foot rolls for $22. CDN. I bought 3 rolls and will use most of it over the dynamat.

Also a good article I read claims that the doors are the major source of noise. Even closing a well insulated door sounds different, more solid, more expensive.

 

Thanks for the info Norval. You mentioned battery "boxes". I assume you have two? Also, do I understand that the inspection covers are the holes in the lower front of the door? You put dynomat inside and outside, and will cover the inspection plate separately?

 

Norval, could you please post pics of you taking the door panel off, or just what the door looks like with the panel off. I have read and read about this, and I am trying to take mine off, but I can't seem to find where the hell I have to pry it off from.

Thanks,
Michael

Edit: Nevermind, I found something that might be usefull:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...the+door+panel

 

I is for the battery, one is storage and the center is just storage for little things. I covered all 3 boxes inside with dynamat to cut down noise. It took alot more material then I thought.
If you remove the door panel you will find a large inspection cover about 12 inches long and 8 or 10 inches high. This allowed me to install dynamat on the inside of the outer door skin up to about 1/2 way on the outer skin. At this point you run into the window of something that prevents you from reaching up higher.
So after carefully covering the bottom 1/2 of the door front the back but only on the inside of the outer skin I cover a good part of the inside of the door, the part covered by the door covering. While not as effective as doing the outer door skin it has got to cut down on road noises.
While it is easy to get at it is difficult going in and out with the contors and around the various mechanisms. The cover stays off until the second layer of Dect insulation is put over the dynamat then I will reinstall the cover and bury it under it's own layer of dynamat and duct insulation.
I know I am going overboard but I really want to quiet the car down and at the same time make the doors feel like very heavy doors when you close them.
The little I have done to the one door really shows compared to the other door.
I will run some tests with guys dropping by the shop, see how easy it is to pick out the door already partly done.
It is a no brainer.
I feel it will really make a big differnce, taking the time to do the doors,
So far I have used 74 square feet of dynamat and intend to use most of the 45 square feet of duct insulation.
I am going to have to re install my heater just to be able it drive in the summer. It will be so cool.

 

Door panels are staight forward to take off if you have the tool to remove the clip from the window crank and the lock. The door latch has a flat screw that you access by slight opening the latch, there are a few scews and the rest is velcro. At the 8 and 4 oclock positions there are metal tabs with screws that must be removed. There are also a couple of screws through the covering itself at 10 and 1 oclock.

I will take lots of pictures on the weekend when I do the door completely.

 

Thanks for sharing the info, you always do great work. Does the Dynamat have an adhesive side or are you using a spray adhesive? I was thinking about it coming free inside after opening and closing the doors awhile. Also, will it absorb water that runs down the door? I am sure you considered these things and was interested in your conclusions.

 

Norval, you do realize you're going to have to drill a bunch of holes somewhere to make up for the weight you been adding

 

Norval, where is the Cascar shop? I am going to be doing the dynamat soon and am interested in the insulation you are talking about. How thick is it?

 

Norval, I read up some more about it, but nothing I read was all that informative. I would still like to see pictures if you could please!!!

Thank you so much,
Michael

 

Dynamat and duct insulation are both self sticking and once put on properly they are impossible to remove. I tried a piece of Rogers race car and it has to be scrapped off.
Dynamat doesn't absorb water. It is tar based with a tough aluminum skin and once rolled out on a pannel becomes like a second skin.

 

Between the cage and the dynamat I probably added 100 pounds that I will not be able to remove elsewhere. I am interested in a better handling car and I want it quiet. I am not drag racing just having fun driving the car.
I could up the blower drive by another tooth or two.

 

The Cascar shop is Rogers and it is in St Agatha where I live but it is not a shop for customers. It is his private race shop sponsering 3 race cars. You should see some of the hollow light weight cranks, the special blocks, the $1500 sets of rods, the many many brakes laying around. It is quit interesting just looking at all the equipment.
Rogers is a good friend and has taught me alot over the years.

But get this. He is all FORD. Loves the 351 or 377 which me makes and is still legal

Anyway the DUCT INsulation is from HOME HARDWARE. They stock it in 2 inch width but is available in 5 inch and 12 inch by 15 feet.
I will have the part number on Friday when I pick up my order. They bring in the 12 inch wide stuff for me but it is available at the warehouse so ordering is no problem.
15 square feet is $22CDN.
Rogers really likes the stuff for reflecting heat off the floor and it never burns even with hot headers almost touch it.
It is self adhesive and can be put outside under the floor. IT is very tough to remove later but does a great job of keeping things cool.

 

Michael I will take pictures on the weekend of the installation of dynamat.

Are you haveing problems getting the window crank off??? It has a clip on the back, opposite the crank and you need a special hook to pop it out. Same with the door lock. Other then these 2 clips and remember the strap for closing the door. It has 2 screws, one at each end going into the door instelf and they need to come off.
The door latch has a single slotted screw which is accessable by opening the latch slightly. The rest is just screws, 4 I would guess and velcro around the bottom and edges.

 

Norval,
Can you describe the duct insulation? How thick is it? Is it fiberglass or what?
Great project.

 

It is silver tap, about 1/8th thick, very sticky, heat resistant,can go outside or in, cheap, 2 inch 5 inch or 12 inch, all 15 feet long. It is a think foam back, the side that has the glue on it and goes against the floor leaving a shinny surface. It absorbs sound and reflex heat.
I haven't personally used it. It was brought to my attention on the forum and again my Roger using it on his race cars.

 

Not to steal Mike Mercury's thunder but, ya'll might want to check out his sound page.

http://mikemercury.home.att.net/sound.htm

The Frost King duct insulation is a whole lot lighter than Dynamat. I have used it in my '77 with great results, and the C5 guys talk about it all the time. Will definitely be using it in my '99 FRC also.