Hi Guys,
Can anyone tell me how to install my new harmonic balancer w/o the GM installation tool that they tell you to use in the service manual? I don't want to to any damage hammering it on unless that is okay to do. I just installed my new double roller timing chain and new chrome 2 piece chain cover and I am stuck at the damper installation. Can anyone help on this?
Thanks.

 

No, it's not ok to hammer on.

There should be an autoparts store where you live that will loan you a damper install tool for free. Around here autozone will do it.

 

Listen to zwede. He and others talked me out of the hammer mode not long ago when I had buggered threads in the crankshaft. Autozone will loan the tool. Lube the crank snout and the damper bore with ATF and pull it on. You'll feel it when it "lands". Good luck.

 

MUCH easier with the right tool.

 

Well now I'm screwed. I borrowed the installation tool from Auto Zone, lubed everything up and started to tighten upon the bolt that pushes the damper on and the bolt that goes into the crankshaft broke off in the shaft. So now not only do I own this tool, but now I have a much bigger problem trying to figure out how to I'm going to get the broken bolt out of the crankshaft. Any ideas?

 

Wow... never heard of one breaking off like that. Can you cut a slot in the broken piece with a small cut-off wheel and then turn it with a screwdriver?

Also, what kind of damper are you installing? Most aftermarkets (ATI, Fluidamper etc) have to be honed before installation.

 

The manufacturer is Silver Seal out of Trenton Michigan. I'm just wondering if the 7/16x20 adapter in the kit I borrowed may have had a stress crack in it from the last person that borrowed it, and I didn't notice it when I was using it. Anyway I spoke to a mechanic buddy of mine and he seems to think that he can get the broken bolt out of there. What a freakin' day, I guess I'll just go relax and have beer and go out there tommorow and look at it again when I'm in a better frame of mind.

 

FYI - (don't know if it's too late)
The installation instructions on my damper indicated that it should be warmed in an oven at the lowest heat (250F) to expand it. In a recent magazine, in addition to heating the damper, they showed pictures of someone giving the crankshaft snout a shot of CO2 from a fire extinguisher just prior to putting on the damper.

Good luck -

 

I know just how you feel. The first tool I used was the culprit that buggered my threads so I now feel bad about not mentioning that. I fretted for a week or so with my dilema. Just don't do anything radical you can't undo-inspect the situation closely, think a lot and ask a lot of folks before deciding on your best course of action.
The very first thing I would do is get a small mirror and flashlight and look into the end of the crank to see what exactly has happened-you'd be surprised at how much you can see (shine the light into the mirror and it'll reflect down the hole with just the right angles).
Both puller adapters I have used were the same brand and did NOT have real tight fitting threads when installed in the crank. They had about 3/4 inch of 7/16 threads and then a thinner shank segment with a set of female threads in the outer end of the shank into which a long bolt screwed. If that thinner shank portion broke maybe some very long thin needle nose pliers will be enough to get it out with the aid of Kroil or another GOOD penetrating oil.
If that adapter broke flush with the 7/16 threaded section and is presenting more of a "face" then maybe one of those Sears tools that claim to remove damaged fasteners will grab it with its claw-like spurs and twist it out.
You didn't say how far you got the damper pulled on but I would get a puller and pull it back off-making absolutely sure not to put any pressure on that piece of adapter still in the crank. You'll have more room to work.
When I took the defective tool back to Autozone and told them what happened they junked the tool and had a nice new unused one when I went back. Comparing a new, whole adapter might also help you determine your best options for getting that broken piece out.
I didn't have to buy the defective tool.
As far as the damper brand, etc. goes-I put my old one back on because it was visually serviceable and I was certain the interference fit was correct.
Good luck and take it slow.

 

good advise posted above. As a last resort, an EASY-OUT can be used, but with GREAT CARE as it will require drilling into the broken tool, which is probably constructed of hardened metal.

For reinstalling balancers, I've used a longer bolt to pull it on with plenty of grease on the crank snout. Is that incorrect? Any comments?

 

You risk stripping the crank threads that way.