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When my car died a few weeks ago, I had it flat-bedded to my warehouse. The driver was able to drop it right in to the space, but I had no choice of where. Now the car is sitting too close to a wall and I can't get a floor jack to the recommended lifting spot (frame rail, just in front of the passenger door). I have to get underneath the car to finish the starter motor wiring.
Can I lift the car with a floor jack using the engine cradle? I'm talking about the big hunk of steel that curves underneath the front of the engine, which connects the front frame rails.
you should be able to but be sure to put a 2x4 or larger on top of the jack to spread the load or you will bend the medal between the crossmember. you could jack under the lower control arms on at a time to lift the car and then use jack stands.
I jack from there all the time. I have big chunk of wood on it usually. The biggest problem I have is that my jack won't fit under the nose when the car is resting on the ground (especially now with the raked stance and 25.5" front). So you might have to jack up the side you can get to a little bit to get the jack in from the front.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
I won't use that location.
Mine is already all bent up from who knows? The A-arms mounts are welded to that cradle and is a weak location producing a lot of broken welds there - mine needed to be rewelded.
Look in the owners manual as it show the 4 correct locations to jack without distorting the frame and bending the door alingment/fit. I know its a bunch of extra work but i jack each side of my car twice in the correct location to get it high enough - same to lower.
BTW what size of starter did u replace? Stagered mounting bolt pattern for 14" 168 tooth flywheel? Or in line (parrallel) mounting bolt pattern for a 12&3/4" 153 tooth flywheel? Most blocks are drilled for both so what can out? Manual or auto trans?
Mine is already all bent up from who knows? The A-arms mounts are welded to that cradle and is a weak location producing a lot of broken welds there - mine needed to be rewelded.
Look in the owners manual as it show the 4 correct locations to jack without distorting the frame and bending the door alingment/fit. I know its a bunch of extra work but i jack each side of my car twice in the correct location to get it high enough - same to lower.
BTW what size of starter did u replace? Stagered mounting bolt pattern for 14" 168 tooth flywheel? Or in line (parrallel) mounting bolt pattern for a 12&3/4" 153 tooth flywheel? Most blocks are drilled for both so what can out? Manual or auto trans?
cardo0
I know where the recommended lift points are, but I can't get to them (on the passenger side) due to the fact the tow-monkey dropped the car too close to the garage wall.
I replaced the original starter with one of those Chinese E-Bay mini-starters ($69). I know they're crap, but for the few times per year I drive my car (one weekend every two months), the thing will probably last forever. The starter is staggered mount (but I did find the extra hole for an inline mount upon closer inspection). I assume I have the 168 tooth flywheel (that's what this starter was supposed to fit). Car has an auto trans.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Thx for the follow up.
Originally Posted by 74FLCONV
... The starter is staggered mount (but I did find the extra hole for an inline mount upon closer inspection). I assume I have the 168 tooth flywheel (that's what this starter was supposed to fit). Car has an auto trans.D. OceanMiami, FLA
Okay i may have the wrong mini then. I'll keep it until i can get it on a motor while on an engine stand to work things out. I'm tired of working on a creeper without results.
Thanks again for posting. cardo0
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