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What is the procedure for bench bleeding a master cylinder? Is it necessary to bench bleed if the master has bleeders?
I think that the gereral consensus is that you should bench bleed before installing. The procedure normally comes with the new MC, but I think that it pretty much consists of putting in some fluid and pressing on the piston with a dowel until all of the air is out of the cylinder. It is probably less important if you have bleeders on the MC, but it's still pretty easy and certainly won't hurt.
I always use bench vise to bleed a M/C if new or it has run dry. I've tried the various tools to do this but found the best thing to do was go to NAPA and get the metric brake adapter lines that fit the M/C (2 sizes) and cut off one end. Curl it up and into the M/C reservoir and use a punch or rod to bleed by pressing the piston several times until there are no more air bubbles in the fluid.
Gary
Just use the tubes from the NAPA kit that go from the outlets of the MC bent to fit back into the cylinder bowls. Depress the piston s-l-o-w-l-y and let it out slow or you will aearate the fluid in the cylinder bore. This is a common problem. After 3-4 pushes and releases let the thing sit for 5 minutes and go back and do it again. This will let any trapped air rise and get out. Then when you bleed your brakes don't let the fluid get below the half way point in the front or rear or you get to practice all over again.
I think the running of the hoses back up and in is the better way, but what about the other way, using the block off plugs. That is the method that was recommended with my MC when I did. Basically the same except plugs are screwed into the line holes.
I wouldn't bother bench bleeding a master cylinder if it has the installed bleeders.
My old master cylinder had installed bleeders(both), and even though my present one feels fine, my old one felt just super when I would bleed both the brakes and the master cylinder. I had to replace it because the cylinder was scored.
I spent a whole day looking locally for a master cylinder with installed bleeders before I bought a new replacement without the bleeders from NAPA.
By the way; I use a homemade pressure bleeder for my brake bleeding.
I think the running of the hoses back up and in is the better way, but what about the other way, using the block off plugs. That is the method that was recommended with my MC when I did. Basically the same except plugs are screwed into the line holes.
The blocked port method is a better method for most folks since it doesn't rely on the perception of bubbles in the bleeder line and it gives you positive feedback on your effectiveness. It's about the same as the tube method (short, slow stroke, long pause, repeat...) but offers a better impression of a proper bleed. By blocking the ports, once the air is out, the piston will move very little. With the tube method, you're not building pressure so you need to have faith that you've got all the air out and sometimes you don't.
By the way; if you do want to bleed your Master Cylinder I bought a plastic bleeding kit at Carquest for about 10 bucks ...it comes with various sizes of screw-in taps and a piece of black rubber hose. I replaced the black rubber hose with clear Tygon tubing just so I could see if any bubbles came through.
Last time, I just bled the MC thru the top with a handheld MityVac. I stuck the hose into the hole and sucked out the air. It worked just fine and gave a rock hard pedal after I bled all 4 calipers again.
Chris- If you don't have a MityVac, let me know and you could borrow mine.
Thanks for all the replies. I recently found out that I've been using a manual master on my power system, which is the reason why makes brakes have been so ridiculously touchy and prone to lock up. I got used to them, thinking that must be how they are. It was only after a few more experienced guys drove my car and commented on the brakes that I started wondering. When I installed the master 5 years ago I just didn't know any better about the difference between the manual and power masters.
I didn't bench bleed the master when I installed it 5 years ago, and never had a problem with air in the master. It has bleeders, so I must've been ok for that reason, but when I put the new master on I wanted to do bench bleed it so that I knew how to do it.