My son and I along with Carguy4sure did his rearend tonight. I posted on the spacer we used in his rearend. We also installed new posi clutches.
I kept one of the old yokes and used one new one. Once the new posi unit was installed the old yoke had about .004 clearance but the new yoke had about .055, This is an extreme amount so I want to tighten that up to about .005 maximum
HOW do I do it????
Before installing the yokes I measure the groove to end of yoke distance and the old used yoke was about .200 and the new one about .190.
I need to take at least .045 clearance out of the new yoke????????

 

Wait a minute !! Are you testing our brains ?

I thought you had posted the solution to this before ...
basically open up the clip groove for a double clip ...
opening up the groove to the outside by the difference you want to close it by.
Then, open up to the inside to make just enough room for two clips.
Moving that groove is the only way, and a double clip is the obvious way to do that.
Maybe you will luck out and the clip is 0.050" thick.
It may be close ... so maybe a little surface grinding of the clip to get it exact.

 

Sounds like a double clip to me... although it sucks to have to do for a new yoke.... maybe you should send it back.... and get them to get you a better one.

Another solution is to fab up one of your 6 links for him.

 

Norval.

Can you recommend a good rear end shop in our area. My side yokes are in bad shape. I have .300" on one side and .105" on the other. My plan is to build a 6-link and reuse the yokes. I am assuming that the rear end has never been rebuilt so I think it's about time.

I would also like to here your thoughts on my 6-link design. I posted a thread awhile back with a concept design. I will be updating that thread soon with my current design.

Thanks in advance of any advice.

Mark.

 

I am in the middle of a total rear rebuild on my 74. I have all new parts including a new Auburn posi unit, gears and bearings. I ordered two rebuilt yokes from VanSteel. How did the factory set this .005" setting on the yokes? Or did they? Both of my old yokes were badly worn(.125") along with the bearing and races. They did last 31 years and 80,000 miles. Is this .005" end plau on the yokes a concern on this rebuild? How much play is accecptable? I am taking all the parts to my mechanic on Friday so I may want to bring this to his attention.

Garson

 

The proper way to set yoke clearance is check backlash of the spider gears in relationship to the side gear, one at a time. In other words, do the left side and leave the side gear and yoke out of the right, then to the right side leaving the side gear and yoke out of the left. Shoot for .002 backlash. Yoke clearance is a function of side gear backlash. This is adjusted by adding shims to the clutch pack between the posi case and clutches. Obviously the more you shim you add, the closer the side gear gets to the yoke retaining ring. If you obtain the proper backlash and the yoke backlash is still bad, then the thrust surface is worn or it is defective...

Paul

www.5speeds.com

 

55 thou sounds like there's something wrong. Was the "new" yoke actually rebuilt?

When I did mine Mike (tracdog) was nice enough to swing by and show me the tricks. The way you set it up is not by yoke endplay. The play is secondary. The primary setup is the spider gears that should have about 2 thou play. Adjustment is done by placing shims between the side spider gears and the clutch pack. You add shims until you can just barely feel play at the spiders which is about 2 thou. The center pin should fall into place. If not you have the side-to-side shimming wrong. Once the spiders are correct the yoke end play should fall in the 5-15 thou range. If it's outside that there's something wrong with the yoke.

 

Thats the way I do them only without the 4 springs. Once get the shims set where I want them there is between .000"-.005" end play in the yokes. If I have .000" I'll set them up on the surface grinder and remove .002-.003" and leave them there. I believe these were only case hardened-if that, so I would change out both for rebuilt ones.
Gary

 

Gary I sent you pictures that you can not open. I also posted the pictures of the spacer.
I found the new yoke was shorter then the old one. It also had .055 clearance using a dial indicator.
Are you saying that I could add enough shims to the axle gear to take out that much clearance.
The spider gears seem tight without adding a extra .050 shim.
I know exactly what you guys are saying but I just can't see adding all that extra shimming to one side.
Passenger's side is right but the drivers side is way out of tolerance.

 

The double clip thing is easy to do and I have done is on 3 other yokes in the past without a problem. The yokes are center drilled on either end and turning them between centers is not hard. A clip is .075 wide and I want to remove .050 from one side so i cut the .050 from one side and .025 from the other.
The new yoke had about .190 from the groove to the end of the yoke and the old one was about .204 to the end. NO consistancy.

 

Norval the new(rebuilt) yokes I've used were in the .187-.190 range, I couldn't say what the originals were since they were worn out when I got to them.
You can't just add enough shims until the yoke endplay is under .005 if they bind the side gear and pinion gear. When I shim them I set the carrier up on a side yoke in a vise. Start with a .040" shim behind each side gear and rotate the carrier by hand-no springs installed. I add shims until the carrier starts to bind-no backlash. At this point I use a spanner wrench on the carrier flange to turn it.I'm doing this without the ring gear installed,BTW. If too tight I remove .001" at a time until it just starts to turn without binding. I flip the carrier over on the other side and do the same.When I have the gears out I put a smal chamfer on all the edges of teeth on both the side and pinion gears.
Setting the posi up for the 4 springs is also setting the blacklash by shimming. You have to load the clutches with a screw driver by pressing down on them then checking lash. The first time I setup a posi without the springs I thought the yokes were way too loose. So I added the springs to see how much force was required to break them loose according to the manual. They actual were in the correct range. I used this procedure since.
I'd post a picture but photobucket seems to be down?

Gary

 

Here is a scanned picture of the 69 diff I did 3 or 4 years ago,

Gary