Has anyone installed a late model camero 5 speed in their automatic vette? If so, what year model camero is best and what do you need to complete the job? Will the camero flywheel, clutch & brake pedals, and bellhousing work? If not what would need to be done, if possible, and what parts to make this swap a success? I can't make up my mind whether to go with an overdrive unit which is the easiest or with a 5/6 speed swap which I think would be the best. I will be going with a used tranny as my budget doesn't allow a new one at this time. Your help is most appreciated!

Bernie

 

ttt

 

I am putting a Tremec TKO in a 76 vette atm. The Tremec TKO is apparently the same case as the 3550, which, I believe is the Camaro transmission. I bought a lakewood scattershield, fabbed up a shifter adapter, about 2" left and 2" back, so that the shifter is centered in the console. I got a crossmember from Bowtie overdrives, the 700r4 conversion crossmember. It seems to be working out ok. My biggest problem is that I had a stock 4 speed car and had to cut out the crossmember (you don't have to, but I am sick of taking the exhaust out of the trany crossmember, horrible design).

I should have it done later this week and will try to post some pictures.

 

CorvetteDave1,
Looking forward to seeing the pics. Am looking for a 5 or 6 speed to install. I believe that I will find one in this area in the next six months. Am finishing a rear suspension rebuild at present, and this time frame will work just fine. I appreciate your information, as well as, the input from others on the forum. I hope to post pics of the complete rear suspension rebuild next week!
Bernie

 

1989 WC T5 from a Z28 Camaro. Used the old bellhousing and original C3 pedals, clutch fork,flywheel etc
Fresh rebuild before the install

 

I'll make you a SCREAMING deal on a "Bullet-proof" 5 Speed Richmond Transmission. Here is the link to my Ebay auction. I have all the parts for a Auto-Manual swap for a Vette. You need to bid on my other auction for the clutch flywheel assembly. Read the auction and then ask me any questions you might have. Here is the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MESE%3AIT&rd=1

 

How much power are you making and how do you drive it? The t-5 that G.M. put in the 3rd gen F-bodies was never very strong. The guys who drag race in the F-body club I belong to have found that when you get to about 330 hp at the rear wheels, the teeth strip off of third gear like corn off a cob! If you're making serious horse power and do any drag racing, you want to either get one of the new Tremec t-5s or a t-56. If you go with the t-56, get the new aftermarket one from Tremec. The price is under $2500 for the trans, and the ratios are much better than the t-56 used in the late model F-bodies. 6th gear is similar to 5th in the t-5 while 5th gear falls between 4th in the t-5 and 5th in the t-5. Also the aftermarket t-56 is available for either of two types types of electronic speedo drive or a mechanical drive. If you run a used t-56 from a Camaro or Firebird (I don't know about late model Vettes) you will need to run the F-body computer and electronic speedo.

 

My question is regarding the placement of the shifter in relation to the corvette console. Is there any problem with the location?

 

Russ,
I will be running around 300 horses. This is strictly a cruiser. I don't have any intention of drag racing the car, but, just like all vette guys, I do get on it occasionally. This is a car I want to drive for extended periods at interstate speeds, or better! Sounds like I need to check into SolidLt1's offer. Thanks for the information!
Bernie

 

I called the folks at Richmond Gear. They told me the 5 speed box's 5th gear is one to one. I really want an overdrive 5th or 6th gear around .78 or .68 to go with my 3:55 to 1 rear. The price for the 5 speed on e-bay does sound very attractive otherwise.
One question; can I use my rear auto transmission support with a 5 or 6 speed tranny? I could modify the center section if need be to get the correct height.
As to the shifter placement. If it is a top loader, I believe you either have to fab a bracket to relocate the shifter to the original location or modify the console to accept the slightly different location of the new shifter. Norval says the new location fits just fine with the console fab. Others who have already done this can best answer this.
Bernie

 

With one of these trannys, you can either modify (open up the hole) the console plate, or you can go for a stock looking job and place an adapter onto the shift lever to move it where you want it. I am just about to start the process of moving the lever. In fact, I removed my temporary plywood console cover tonight to get at everything.

I have a Ford Racing T5 in my '69.

 

For 300 h.p. and just cruising the W.C. T-5 should hold up fine. With our Third Gen f-bodies with tpi if you run to the red line in each gear and power shift into the next gear, the second to third shift puts you in third gear right at the torque peak. Since these things make gobs of torque the T-5 is the weak link. Strengthen the trans and then the rear end becomes the weak link because G.M. is underbuilding everything anymore. Getting on it won't hurt anything. I think it is power shifting second to third that breaks third gear.

 

Seems like, for what I want out of this car, the T5 is a good choice. Is there a problem using the T5 out of a Ford, as opposed to using one out of a Camaro? The Richmond six speed sounded like a good choice too; but I believe the T5 will be easier to find locally.
Thanks for all the information and help.
Bernie

 

Is there a "problem" using a Ford T5? Well, not if you have some fabrication skills. It requires a fair bit of work. For starters, it needs a 1/2" thick adapter plate to convert the bolt patterns which has to be machined for the Ford front bearing retainer to sit in. Also need to use a Ford clutch disc & chevy pressure plate. Getting it hooked up to the bellhousing is really the only thing that's different than installing a Chevy T5.

 

O.K. Bernie,

I am STILL working on this transmission conversion. Supposedly the Bowtie Overdrive crossmember works with automatics, but with a 4 speed, where u cut the crossmember out, it is a pain in the ____. I still haven't taken any pictures and will, but this is a rough job for me in my driveway. If I had an automatic car with a removeable transmission, then I would look at a richmond 6 speed (since you want the overdrive). If you need to save $1,000 or so and want the overdrive of the Tremec, then here is a link and a few points below.

-You have to remove at least part of the bosses on the rear of the transmission with the bowtie overdrive crossmember or it won't fit or will bottom out on the transmission case if you don't remove enough.

-The shifter stub WILL rub on your console and will rub even more unless you move it up a bit and are thinking ahead on how to mount the adapter for the shifter handle to get it centered in the console.

-The tunnel WILL have to be cut.

-The stock yoke is a press in so it is going to be rough pressing it on the driveshaft under the car.

-The driveshaft will have to be shortened ( I ended up spending $220 on a big block driveshaft, Ujoints and having it cut and balanced). If I could do it again, I would buy one from Keisler and have a stronger driveshaft for it.

-The grommet on the output shaft slides down and sticks if you don't keep the yoke in the transmission. I was told you can remove it, which I did, but I am worried about leaks now (there is still a seal around the shaft though).

-The website posted has 2 options for crossmembers. The second one wasn't available when I started, or I would have gone this route, especially if you just want a cruiser and don't need big exhaust pipes and probably won't need to take them on and off the car very often. http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/c3_vette_3550.html

-Again, if I could do it over again, I would probably go with a Richmond 5 or 6 speed. With a 3.08 rearend, the 1:1 final ratio of the 5 speed is about right anyway, and that is the most common rearend ratio. I haven't looked at how low 1st and 2nd are, so I am not sure how it would launch though.

-One big plus. The Tremec has a very nice positive shift and a short throw. I doubt the richmond shifts nearly this nicely.

Dave W.

 

Also,

Looking at the pictures above, I can tell you that the Tremec TKO case is not the same as that one. It may very will line up the same, but it doesn't look anything like that one. Look at the link I posted earlier and you will find a good picture and I think, even some dimensions.

Dave W.

 

Corvette Dave,
I have been researching the Richmond Gear 6 speed and the Tremac. It seems the Richmond is the stronger of the two but for my application, either will work. With all the links you have given there should be no problem finding either a suitable doner for rebuild or saving the bucks to go with one of these companies units.
This has been a great learning experience. I woulkd definately go with a hyd clutch as well.
Looking forward to seeing your pics and thanks to everyone for being so helpful. I will attempt to post pics of my rear suspension and drive train rebuild when I finish the installation. Am taking pics as I install all the freshely rebuilt components.
Bernie

 

You will also need an allen head bolt on the top right side to bolt the transmission to the bellhousing when using the Tremec. I figured that out yesterday as well.

 

Dave,
Sounds like I should pull the engine attach the tranny and install as a unit when I'm ready. This is a mod I am really looking forward to doing. The '79 will be a much more enjoyable car to drive after its done. I have already collected a cam, lifters, timing chain, and aluminum intake for the engine. I still need to get headers and a few other engine parts. This can all be done at the same time!
Bernie

 

Actually you'd want a new TKO vs a new T-5. The torque rating is much higher in the TKO series.

Robert