I have a 72 and the Key switch will not engage the switch mounted under dash. The mechanism in the steering column does not activate when it is turned. I can start car by switch under dash with a screw driver. Can the steering column be opened to get to mechanism that activates the switch under dash when the Key is turned?

Anyone have experience with this??

 

There is a metal rod that goes from the key switch down to the the actual electrical switch mounted low down on the steering column. WHen you turn the key, this rod moves downward, closing the contact in the electrical switch. Can you see this rod moving when you turn the key? The rod is actually on the top side of the column, so it might be difficult to see, but if you slide your hand over the top of the steering column under the dash, you should feel this rod.

 

I will check this out. Iwas looking for some input before I started taking apart. Thanks..I'll post back after looking.

 

This may or may not help.

On my 69 Camaro we have a "backdrive" that works the steering column on 4 speed cars. The backdrive linkage is typicaly removed when headers are installed because they interfear with the tubes. The column is then rotated and held in place where the starter will function and then a coat hangar wire is attached from the backdrive linkage to the back of the booster to be used to keep it rotated up in position.

Maybe this is what you got?, maybe not.

-Mark.

 

I have dissasembled and reassembled a complete column and switch. Replaced the switch and harness. The key actually rotates through the keyway of a slotted shaft. At the end of this shaft, (about a quarter of an inch by quarter by 1.5 inches long) is a hole. A common ocurance is for the wire (about the diamater of a coat hanger) to pop out of the hole in the end of the rod. If the column is turned even a quarter of an inch the rod can bind at the metal cup molding about halfway down the column. Hopefuly this is not the case. A fix requires diasassembly pretty far. Horn cap off, steering wheel off, turn signal switch out and dangeling, three 2 inch screws out of the pot metal hub and removal then you can actually see the shaft / key mechinism / rod assembly. The first test though is to try to move the rod yourself to see if it is connected. If the steering collumn has been through an accident with a hard slam against the wheel it probably broke your nylon stays in the revearse lock out (if this is a 4 speed car) this causes the rod to be too long. Not to mention the revearse lock out security device is not working properly and the key has problems traversing its full path. Thus the short throw for the rod ,and the switch is not thrown. Keep at it!

 

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=993089

 

Usually its the Pawl that is broken. This is the rack and mechanism that operates the rod.

 

Gonna break it down today. Thanks for all the great input!

 

You didn't mention if you have a standard (non-adjustable) steering column or a T&T. They both work substantially the same way, but there is a difference. The ignition key and lock cylinder hook into a plastic gear inside the steering column. The T&T column has a small die cast rack on the lower side of the gear. So when you twist the ignition key clockwise (toward START) the die cast rack actually pulls on the rod and pulls the ignition switch mechanism up toward the driver.

The standard column also has the lock cylinder and plastic gear. However, the rack is on the topside of the gear. This means that when you twist the ignition key clockwise, the rack is pushed down the column and the rod pushes down (away from the driver) in order to push the ignition switch mechanism to START.

So there are two different ignition switches. One for standard columns the other for T&Ts.

The die cast rack has been found broken in quite a few T&T columns. The good news is that Zip Products other Corvette suppliers as well as your local GM dealer can supply replacement parts. However, it does require a major teardown of the steering column in order to replace the rack.

This corvettefaq websight has a bunch of my papers that can assist you in the disassembly and repair procedure. The address is www.corvettefaq.com and look in the Steering section.

If you need additional information, just post again.

JIM

 

possibly a good excuse to switch to PUSHBUTTON start

 

Even with a push button start you will still need an ignition switch. If the rack is broken you still won't be able to turn the ignition switch from OFF-LOCK to ON.

 

a toggle switch, perhaps a security keypad, but no key.
not everyone needs a locking column. my 61 does not have it.

 

Hey Mav. Finally allowed to post now. How did it go ?

 

I found the rod that was supposed to activate relay. I installed the relay and I was able to start car!!!!

However, The rod popped out and I could not yurn the car off until I disassemled everthing. Something in the steering colunm is not right!

 

Thanks for the heads up. Intalled a new switch and re attached the rod that activates the switch. I was able to start car a few times then the rod popped out and I had to disassemble in order to turn car off.

 

You still didn't indicate if you had a standard or a T&T column.

If I remember correctly, with the standard column the rod that actuates the ignition switch is molded into the rack. It is possible that the rack has become disengaged.

The T&T column is a bit more complicated. Since the column head moves up and down as it is adjusted, the motion of the ignition switch actuator has to go through the pivot. The rack has a fan shaped section that engages a pin on the ignition switch actuator rod. My guess is that the fan shaped section of the rack is broken.

Jim

 

The column is a T&T. The ingnition switch is moving the rod. After installing yesterday. The rod would not stay engaged with the switch mounted on top of steering column under the dash.