I found a goldmine of information in the "Other | Tech Tips | C4" section. It has great tips on addressing many items. One of interest to me was the Keyless Entry Programming piece (https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...=267&TopicID=2). However, my 1994 Coupe does not do what the Tech Tips describes.

It mentions the "Passive Keyless Entry" light should flash after turning the key off. In my case, the light just turns off.

Does the process of programming the remote differ for the 1994?

 

In the 1994 Manual:

1. Move all transmitters out of range.

2. Turn the ignition on.

3. Push "TRIP ODO" on the Driver Information Center twice.

4. Within five seconds press and hold "FUEL INFO" until the "PASSIVE KEYLESS ENTRY" light comes on.

5. Turn the ignition off, but leave the key in the ignition, the "PASSIVE KEYLESS ENTRY" light should begin to flash to show the system is in programming mode.

6. Bring one transmitter into range, The light will stop flashing and stay on to show that the code is stored.

7. Move the transmitter out of range. The light should start flashing again.

8. Repeat steps 6 and 7 with each additional transmitter.

The programming mode will shut off if:

You don't program any transmitters for two minutes.
You take the key out of the ignition or turn the ignition on.
You have programmed three transmitters.

Hope this helps because I can only type using one toe.

 

Step 5 is where things don't go as documented. I turn the ignition off, but the light does not flash.

 

Are all transmitters out of range at step 5 ?

 

those are correct directions.. however after almost a year i gave up onthe idiot thing and tossed it aside as a memento. it worked, quit, worked, and quit. new batteries, everything. has a mind of it's own. don't let it fool you... GOOD LUCK

 

Remote is out of site, followed the instructions word for word. New batteries. No luck. Maybe I should give up on it too.

 

That light will never flash if your "key in ignition" switch isn't working. Stick the key in the ignition, open the drivers side door and listen for the warning chime. If you don't hear it that switch is bad or not making good contact.

The PKE system needs to see that switch in order to operate correctly.
This is clearly documented in the Helm manual!

If that's not the case there could be some intermittent or broken connections in the receiver connector header where it solders to the circuit board.

Regardless of whether you have a good transmitter or not that light will flash.

I posted a long write up on this but it got lost in the abyss.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...70&forum_id=48

Maybe when I get some time I'll write up a definitive guide on how to fix these. IMHO it's worth having all the factory stuff working correctly and not slap some band aid after market crap on.

 

You may be on to something good here ALLT4. My warning chime does not sound-off at all. I wonder if it was disconnected. I'm going to try grounding pin 8 like your "PKE Fixed" posting indicates. Thanks, I'll keep you posted.

 

The key-in-ignition chime is working now, along with the interior lights, and the electronic speedometer light. Fantastic, I can see the speedometer now. There was a missing 5A fuse in the LCD slot. These is now a "Security" light that turns on in the lower left corner of the tachometer.

One major problem solved. Lights on the speedometer. However, the problem with the Remote Control still exists. Programming attempts still fail on step 5. The "PASSIVE KEYLESS ENTRY" light does not flash.

The ALLT4 "PKE Fixed" posting is extremely involved. Tearing things down and using those fancy voltmeters. Man isn't there a better way? I need something like a magic stick for this one!

 

No codes yet from the PKE?

 

No codes, but I'm probably grounding wrong. I tried grounding to the brake pedal from the 16 pin OBD connector. Is that where you grounded pin 8 from?

 

HI. I'm just reading about Tinians adventure, in trying to fix his PKE system. I feel about the same way, I also am having problems with mine.(94 vert) I was not even able to get to step 5. My PKE lite will not come on at all. Checked all three fuse with the voltmeter,all were fine .It appears that I will have to remove the dash cap, but I,m a little afraid of doing this . So I suppose that I will have this problem for a while till I get my courage up and attempt this .
Any way I hope that you are more succesful , than I. good luck!!!!!

 

I took a jumper from pin 8 to the cigarette lighter case. It's a known good ground.

Make sure your doors are closed when looking for those codes. I'm not sure it matters but that's the way I tested mine.

If your key chime is now working and you still can't get it to enter programing corrrectly or see any codes I'm afraid your going to have to pop the dash cover off and start probing the PKE reciever.

It's really not that bad, it should only take you about an hour to get it off. All you need is a T15 torx and a 7mm driver or socket. The dash cap pulls straight out rather easily once you get everything unbolted.

I'm at work and can't give you the pinouts right now but if you have a manual it's pretty easy to identify what needs looked at. The case of the reciever opens up real easy and you can flip it around and test various pins or check them right on the circuit board.

I'd be real suspicious of pin A4 on the reciever, it should go from 12 to 0 when you stick your key in and out. In addition it dosen't hurt to take the thing the whole way our and have an electronics technician resolder all the connections from the connector to the circuit board. You can do it yourself but the entire circuit board is covered in epoxy and you have to get them pretty hot to flow more solder.

Looking at the connector from the back of it you'll see A1 on the top row and B1 on the bottom row. Then they just follow suit across the pins. A2, A3, A4.... B2, B3, B4....

It all sounds much more difficult than itr really is. I'm afraid also I can't be of any more help to you guys untill you get brave, take that dash cover off and actually get to the reciever connector. Do it when you get bored.

Oh yea, BTW I've heard folks on here say to just cut away some plastic in the dash to get at it from behind the DIC. You could do that but hacking my dash apart didn't thrill me too much and taking the dash cap off will take about the swame amount of time.