383 build ?
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Belews Creek north carolina
St. Jude Donor '05
383 build ?
next year i am wanting to do a 383 buildup on my 94 lt1 coupe. can anyone give me pointers or tips on things i will need to start buying i would like to buy all the parts i will be needing throughout the next year so when i tear it down for the rebuild i will have to pay for nothing but the machine work. what i am searching for is a complete list of parts i will need and any other upgrades that are suggested to go with the 383 
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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
As the old standard goes, "Do nothing till you talk to me!" 
I'll be doing this real soon. All parts are on order. Just need to find a four bolt block so I don't have to down the car while I build.
I'll be doing this real soon. All parts are on order. Just need to find a four bolt block so I don't have to down the car while I build.
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Melting Slicks
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From: Belews Creek north carolina
St. Jude Donor '05
unfortunately my will be the block i have in the car. so it will be down for awhile. but that will give me time to really clean the engine bay up while the machine work is getting done 
so is it a bigggg list 
so is it a bigggg list
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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by myvettesblue
unfortunately my will be the block i have in the car. so it will be down for awhile. but that will give me time to really clean the engine bay up while the machine work is getting done so is it a bigggg list
so is it a bigggg list 
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Melting Slicks
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From: Belews Creek north carolina
St. Jude Donor '05
i just hate pulling a motor with a new paint job 
of course it wont be new anymore then. but you know how it is once its new its always new right ( yep new paint, had it painted 5 years ago)
of course it wont be new anymore then. but you know how it is once its new its always new right ( yep new paint, had it painted 5 years ago)
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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by myvettesblue
i just hate pulling a motor with a new paint job of course it wont be new anymore then. but you know how it is once its new its always new right ( yep new paint, had it painted 5 years ago)
of course it wont be new anymore then. but you know how it is once its new its always new right ( yep new paint, had it painted 5 years ago)
Melting Slicks
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From: Howard PA
Why are people so concerned with a four bolt block? The F body guy build build 383's with their two bolts and don't seem to have any problems. Can anyone point me somewhere where a two bolt LT1 has failed?
For that matter if a four bolt is what you really need. I can't immagine making enough power to break a main cap with ARP studs through it though. Buy a cheap two bolt LT1 and have splayed caps installed. Personally I think it's overkill.
For that matter if a four bolt is what you really need. I can't immagine making enough power to break a main cap with ARP studs through it though. Buy a cheap two bolt LT1 and have splayed caps installed. Personally I think it's overkill.
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Melting Slicks
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From: Belews Creek north carolina
St. Jude Donor '05
Originally Posted by Corvette Kid NC
Well at least it's not like you have to lean over the fenders on these cars!
wonder if you could pull the motor from the side so you dont have to remove that heavy hood
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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by myvettesblue
this is true wonder if you could pull the motor from the side so you dont have to remove that heavy hood
wonder if you could pull the motor from the side so you dont have to remove that heavy hood
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Melting Slicks
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From: Belews Creek north carolina
St. Jude Donor '05
Originally Posted by ALLT4
Why are people so concerned with a four bolt block? The F body guy build build 383's with their two bolts and don't seem to have any problems. Can anyone point me somewhere where a two bolt LT1 has failed?
For that matter if a four bolt is what you really need. I can't immagine making enough power to break a main cap with ARP studs through it though. Buy a cheap two bolt LT1 and have splayed caps installed. Personally I think it's overkill.
For that matter if a four bolt is what you really need. I can't immagine making enough power to break a main cap with ARP studs through it though. Buy a cheap two bolt LT1 and have splayed caps installed. Personally I think it's overkill.
i have had heavily built 2 bolt blocks myself and never had a problem. but the vette already has a fourbolt block so i have nothing to worrie about there
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Melting Slicks
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From: Belews Creek north carolina
St. Jude Donor '05
Originally Posted by Daffy427
I've got some real nice C4 fender covers for sale
i will take two of them they will definitely keep the scratches off my fenders 
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,302
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From: Tomahawk WI
I just finished my 383(still in break in). Used my 2 bolt block but had it decked, bored.. ... all that good stuff. I've been told the 2 bolt block is plenty strong. I have a 300 shot on top of it all and both the builder and the machine shop guy were unconcerned about the block not holding up. Of course, I had to put a lot of money into the rotating assembly.
I could give you my parts list but it's all common sense stuff with some exceptions because I changed out the TPI for a new intake and a demon 4 barrel.
Enjoy your rebuild.... sure your 'vette will be down but it's exciting times!
I could give you my parts list but it's all common sense stuff with some exceptions because I changed out the TPI for a new intake and a demon 4 barrel.
Enjoy your rebuild.... sure your 'vette will be down but it's exciting times!
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: GA
Originally Posted by ALLT4
Why are people so concerned with a four bolt block? The F body guy build build 383's with their two bolts and don't seem to have any problems. Can anyone point me somewhere where a two bolt LT1 has failed?
For that matter if a four bolt is what you really need. I can't immagine making enough power to break a main cap with ARP studs through it though. Buy a cheap two bolt LT1 and have splayed caps installed. Personally I think it's overkill.
For that matter if a four bolt is what you really need. I can't immagine making enough power to break a main cap with ARP studs through it though. Buy a cheap two bolt LT1 and have splayed caps installed. Personally I think it's overkill.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Charleston SC
I went the splayed as well,
Now for the list
(This will depend on what your goals are)
Heads:
(Ported LT1 castings min LT4 or aftermarket would be better)
Rotating assy:
Recomend Forged 3.75 crank 6.00 Rods and Forged pistons (I like SRP) , Plasma moly file to fit rings, Clevite or King main and rod bearings, durabond cam bearings,
Mis:
Gaskets, lots of gaskets Felpro
Cam, (Bump stick of your choice)
Timing set (Recomend GMPP LT4 HD)
ARP bolts (Head, Main studs and FW)
Oil pump
Opti (while you are there)
Water Pump (again why not)
Intake porting
Well thats the short list good luck and what ever you planed one spending take it and x2
Now for the list
(This will depend on what your goals are)
Heads:
(Ported LT1 castings min LT4 or aftermarket would be better)
Rotating assy:
Recomend Forged 3.75 crank 6.00 Rods and Forged pistons (I like SRP) , Plasma moly file to fit rings, Clevite or King main and rod bearings, durabond cam bearings,
Mis:
Gaskets, lots of gaskets Felpro
Cam, (Bump stick of your choice)
Timing set (Recomend GMPP LT4 HD)
ARP bolts (Head, Main studs and FW)
Oil pump
Opti (while you are there)
Water Pump (again why not)
Intake porting
Well thats the short list good luck and what ever you planed one spending take it and x2
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,137
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From: Howard PA
Anyone here ever heard of peening the area just on the outside of the mains on a 2 bolt block? It's supposed to dis-shape the walls that center the cap and make it a really tight fit.
Basically you take a blunt, wide chisle, slide it down along the wall of the cap on either side and give it a good healthy smack!
If you did this along with ARP fasteners and proper torque, explain to me how the cap can move side to side? Even with doing nothing they should be a snug fit.
Ohh, one other thing I remember, when line honing the main bores the oil pump is supposed to be torqued to final spec. You want any forces that will be presesnt on the caps during honing that will be there when the crank is in. I'm not sure if machine shops do this not? For real it's the ultimate in analness.
Basically you take a blunt, wide chisle, slide it down along the wall of the cap on either side and give it a good healthy smack!
If you did this along with ARP fasteners and proper torque, explain to me how the cap can move side to side? Even with doing nothing they should be a snug fit.
Ohh, one other thing I remember, when line honing the main bores the oil pump is supposed to be torqued to final spec. You want any forces that will be presesnt on the caps during honing that will be there when the crank is in. I'm not sure if machine shops do this not? For real it's the ultimate in analness.
Last edited by ALLT4; Jun 7, 2005 at 05:01 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,490
Likes: 2
From: Oviedo FL
Originally Posted by FD2BLK
I went the splayed as well,
Now for the list
(This will depend on what your goals are)
Heads:
(Ported LT1 castings min LT4 or aftermarket would be better)
Rotating assy:
Recomend Forged 3.75 crank 6.00 Rods and Forged pistons (I like SRP) , Plasma moly file to fit rings, Clevite or King main and rod bearings, durabond cam bearings,
Mis:
Gaskets, lots of gaskets Felpro
Cam, (Bump stick of your choice)
Timing set (Recomend GMPP LT4 HD)
ARP bolts (Head, Main studs and FW)
Oil pump
Opti (while you are there)
Water Pump (again why not)
Intake porting
Well thats the short list good luck and what ever you planed one spending take it and x2
Now for the list
(This will depend on what your goals are)
Heads:
(Ported LT1 castings min LT4 or aftermarket would be better)
Rotating assy:
Recomend Forged 3.75 crank 6.00 Rods and Forged pistons (I like SRP) , Plasma moly file to fit rings, Clevite or King main and rod bearings, durabond cam bearings,
Mis:
Gaskets, lots of gaskets Felpro
Cam, (Bump stick of your choice)
Timing set (Recomend GMPP LT4 HD)
ARP bolts (Head, Main studs and FW)
Oil pump
Opti (while you are there)
Water Pump (again why not)
Intake porting
Well thats the short list good luck and what ever you planed one spending take it and x2
Mike