Just casually read this thread last week, then took my wife for a drive and, this same thing has happened to mine.

 

im still waiting for the shop to diagnise that same problem myself. i will definatly post how i gets fixed

 

I have never heard of a 96 being fixed. I have heard all the other stories, but no one ever specifiaclly mentioned a 96.

 

To any of you who still have this problem, I managed to fix my 96, and I wanted to share. Much thanks to ALLT4 for pointing me in the right direction. The problem was that the vents would only blow out of the floor and at the windshield:

First, I replaced the connector under the hood near the fuel rails like I read about on the forum, but that didn't change the problem.

Next, I took off the panel underneath the steering wheel, contorted my body into a very uncomfortable position, and then turned a flashlight upwards to I could see underneath (picture my head on the floor looking up).

On the side nearest the center of the car (against the driveshaft hump), there is a box about 6 inches long that is held in place by 1 screw (I think it has a 1/4 in. head). It has 5-6 vacuum lines coming out of it. I took it off and inspected it, though in retrospect it didn't need to come out.

It turns out that 2 of the vacuum lines come out and go into these big round black things (diameter of 3-4 inches). One of those, the one closest to the floorboard, had come loose, and I just stuffed it back on with my fingers and the a/c now blows out of the specified vents. I put some silicone on it in hopes that it will help keep it on.

I assume it could happen again, but it was sure an easy fix once I knew where the offending vacuum line was. Thanks again for all the help,

JE

 

Got a new programmer installed from a wrecked '96....works fine now

 

You were lucky to find that programmer

 

My 96 CE was doing the same thing. Changed the check valve ($8.00) under the fuel rail on passenger side and now it takes about 1 to 1 1/2 minutes before it comes out the dash, but it does ata least come out the dash. I am told by the dealer that it needs a new programmer to totally work right ! ($1200.00 installed)

 

If you can find one.....

 

FYI, I took the cover off under the steering wheel so I could check the vacuum connections on the programmer. They looked like they were on ok, but I had to pull it off just to make sure (DUH). What a PITA to try and get back on. No way can a grown man get his hand up there to put the retaining clip back on. I saw a link on this thread to another
thread and one of the guys was talking about using the screw on tip of a spark plug to hold on the vacuum connection. He had ground it down so a socket would fit on it. I did something similar. I just took the spark plug tip and stuck it up into a 2 inch piece of vacuum hose and wulla ! Easy to put on and take off and there ain't no way the connection is going to come loose. Anyway, that wasn't the fix for mine. Not sure what to do next ?

 

To fix whatever it is, you've got to find the problem first. A Dealer should start with a 2 way Scanner that will bypass the control panel and communicate with the Programmer via the CCM data line. If it all works, the Control Panel or the data lines are faulty. If it doesn't, the Tech can zero in on the Programmer or it's vacuum source. For the rest of us, start at the vacuum source and trace it to the check valve under the fuel rail. Make sure the valve is intact and that you can only blow air through it in one direction. For delayed or loss of air flow during acceleration, trace the connection (usually runs to cruise first) to the vacuum tank and verify that the tank will hold about 10 inches of vacuum. If everything checks out, then verify the source at the Programmer and it's connector which includes the source (black) and the lines to the solenoids which control the position of the air doors. Programmers - I think - are available through the Last Detail - www.tld-corvette.com -

 

for about $600

 

well, I got mine free.....at least I thought so at the time.....long story there...point is, it is fixed

 

My 96 was/is doing the same thing. Terry at the Vette Shop in Roseville, MI has a programmer for me, and will be installing it soon. I will post if this FIXES the 'oh so common' problem in the 96. This whole topic has caught my interest, I'm wondering if the programmer really will be the fix.

 

My bet is YES

 

I ended up going with a used programer after taking the car to the dealer ($90.00) and verifying that that was what it was. The first programer that I bought ($150.00) also did not work, but the people I bought if from guaranteed it and replaced it with another. My 96 LT1 now works just like new............I love it !

 

you bought a new programmer for $150?


sorry.....I need to READ

 

NO.....I bought a used one for $150, but it also was bad. I sent it back and they sent me another one which works just fine.

 

After trying all other possible fixes, this is what FINALLY fixed mine. A new Air Conditioning Control Module.

 

is that the programmer under the dash, or the ac controls that you use to change the settings??

 

The one under the dash.