1996 A/C problem
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,957
Likes: 6
From: The Woodlands TX TX
Regarding the same subject. On my 96 in "AUTO" the air blows out the vents but the heater doesn't seem to. Is there a reason for this. Does the cpu chose to heat the windshield and my feet. I can get hot air out the vents by selecting them but thats it.
Also, when the heater is on will it not recirculate the air in the cockpit, because when I chose that button in auto when the heater is on it quickly deselects it.
I guess I could read about this in the manual, but its out in the car and I dont feel like walking out ther opening the glove box etc. I'm
Also, when the heater is on will it not recirculate the air in the cockpit, because when I chose that button in auto when the heater is on it quickly deselects it.
I guess I could read about this in the manual, but its out in the car and I dont feel like walking out ther opening the glove box etc. I'm
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,428
Likes: 1
From: Jacksonville FL
Originally Posted by jeverly
I also own a 96 that has this problem. It takes a minute or two after you push the button before the air starts to blow out of the dash, but it eventually does. I replaced the t-valve under the fuel rail cover, but it didn't help at all. Does anyone have detailed instructions of how to access the under-dash system? I'd attempt to tackle it with some details!
3rd Gear
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
I have a 96 coupe my air blows ice cold when I start it up and will stay cold until I shut the car off, when I start it back up and start driving its blowing hot if I leave the a/c on after driving awhile it start blowing cold again until I shut it off again. sometimes it will come on after a mile or so other times it will take 5 or 10 miles but it always come back on and blow ice cold . Any Ideas ?
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 346
From: Anaheim CA
The second picture in this post shows the problem. The fix is to cut about 1/8" off the ends of the nipples:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/1580705187-post33.html
It was only the '96 cars that had this problem. Earlier ones used hard nipples that did not collapse.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/1580705187-post33.html
It was only the '96 cars that had this problem. Earlier ones used hard nipples that did not collapse.
3rd Gear
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
The second picture in this post shows the problem. The fix is to cut about 1/8" off the ends of the nipples:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/1580705187-post33.html
It was only the '96 cars that had this problem. Earlier ones used hard nipples that did not collapse.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/1580705187-post33.html
It was only the '96 cars that had this problem. Earlier ones used hard nipples that did not collapse.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 109
Likes: 6
From: Scottsdale AZ
I believe Cliff has one of the right fixes for this problem. The cause of the problrm is the "nipples" on the programmer box (under the dash) are made of a very soft plastic. When vacuum is present in the system these nipples collapse and resrtict the vacuum airflow from reaching the relays inside the box. When this happens the vent doors do not function or move into the correct position. As Cliff mentioned one fix is to cut off about 1/8" inch off the end of the nipple on the progammer box. These nipples are located where the multi tube connector plugs in. Another fix which works is to place a small piece of hard plastic tubing inside the nipple. Both fixes prevent the soft plastic nipple from collapsing when vacuum is present.
The fix is simple, but getting the programmer out from under the dash is the difficult part. So, before you venture out to replace the programmer box which may have the same problem, I would try and fix your existing one. These fixes do work.
Sledge_78
The fix is simple, but getting the programmer out from under the dash is the difficult part. So, before you venture out to replace the programmer box which may have the same problem, I would try and fix your existing one. These fixes do work.
Sledge_78
3rd Gear
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
I believe Cliff has one of the right fixes for this problem. The cause of the problrm is the "nipples" on the programmer box (under the dash) are made of a very soft plastic. When vacuum is present in the system these nipples collapse and resrtict the vacuum airflow from reaching the relays inside the box. When this happens the vent doors do not function or move into the correct position. As Cliff mentioned one fix is to cut off about 1/8" inch off the end of the nipple on the progammer box. These nipples are located where the multi tube connector plugs in. Another fix which works is to place a small piece of hard plastic tubing inside the nipple. Both fixes prevent the soft plastic nipple from collapsing when vacuum is present.
The fix is simple, but getting the programmer out from under the dash is the difficult part. So, before you venture out to replace the programmer box which may have the same problem, I would try and fix your existing one. These fixes do work.
Sledge_78
The fix is simple, but getting the programmer out from under the dash is the difficult part. So, before you venture out to replace the programmer box which may have the same problem, I would try and fix your existing one. These fixes do work.
Sledge_78
