Here I just copied this from another post of mine. Sorry for posting a pic from the manual. I know how some folks hate them.

This pertains to my 96 but should work for 95, 94, maybe others you’ll have to look and see. I’m assuming you have a known good transmitter. You know how to program it correctly. If not do a search and you should find many tips on it or use your manual.

A few preliminary checks should be done first to rule out anything stupid and not so obvious.

Fuses…
#40 RDO BATT 5A=provides constant power to the module.

#26 PKE 5A=provides switched 12 volts in run, bulb test and start.

#42 POWER LOCK= provides voltage to the indicator bulb and power door lock relays in the module.

If all those are OK you need to make sure your “Key in ignition switch” is working, this is easily tested by opening your door with the key inserted and listening for the warning chime. If no chime is heard you have either a defective switch in the ignition, the chime itself is just dead, or there is a wiring problem between the switch and CCM and/or the PKE receiver.

Now you’re saying, “that’s all good but it still won’t program” You need to make sure the module is actually alive and responding. Enter the diagnostic mode by jumping pins 8 to 5 on the DLC and inserting your key in the ignition with it in “Lock” position. Take your transmitter out of range for this. Do you have any PKE light activity? If NO the module will have to be accessed, if it’s working it should flash DTC 13 (one flash, pause, three flashes) bring your transmitter into range and make sure to move it around shake it, the DTC should change from 13 to either 14 or 15.

14 is good, it means your transmitter isn’t programmed or has a bad battery. (Unlikely since you can’t program it anyway.)
15 is bad, you have some system the CCM is looking at that isn’t in a ready state, door lock switches, courtesy light switches on the doors etc… you need to figure why the CCM isn’t happy. You’ll need the service manual for this there’s no way to figure it out without it.

In the case of no DTC’s the module just isn’t ready for some reason, you need to access the module by removing the dash cap. It isn’t that hard; don’t cut apart your dash frame inside behind the radio to get to it that’s what hackers do. Do it right and pop the dash off it’s only a number of screws.

You will see two boxes in the middle of the inner dash velcro’d together. The PKE receiver module is the one underneath. It can positioned to gain access to the terminals but it’s not easy.



Check all the inputs the thing needs in order to work…

A1=Ground, BLK wire.

A4=will go from 12 volts to 0 when you stick the key in the ignition. LT GRN wire.

A5=PKE fuse input, switched 12 volts. PNK wire.

A6=LH door ajar, 12 volts with door closed, 0 with it open. GRY/BLK wire.

A7=RH door ajar, 12 volts with door closed, 0 with it open. BLK/WHT wire.

A8=RDO fuses input, should be 12 volts at all times. ORN wire.

C=Lamp indicator, ground this BLK/ORN wire and the indicator should light.

F=Power Door Lock, hot at all times. ORN wire.


Your module may have some broken connections where the connectors finally make their way into the PCB of the module. It can be taken apart easily but re-soldering the connections isn’t so easy. The board has a coating on it for protection, you have to dig through the stuff in order to re-solder things.

I’ve included a picture of the pin outs from the receiver for reference and aid. Do yourself a favor and buy the Helms service manual. Even if you can’t fix your PKE with it you’ll need it for many other things.

I’m sure this isn’t all inclusive but it should help solve many problems folks have.