PKE remote problem
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: South Pasadena CA
PKE remote problem
I didn't drive my 93 for a few weeks and now the PKE is not working right. I have 2 PKE's, one only has the door, but now when I push the door button it opens the hatch, not the door. The other has 2 buttons, but again the door button opens the hatch. How can I fix this? I was able to program them when I got them used. DO I go thru the same steps? Do they work bad because the batteries are old? HELP! jlarson@socal.rr.com - THANKS
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 2,230
Likes: 4
From: Allentown, Pa
Try reprograming them. The PKE with just the one button is for a convertible..the other one is for the coupe. If that does not do it, then it might be the PKE unit in the dash. Try the simple reprogram first.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,421
Likes: 8
From: Lake Mary Florida
Have you tested or replaced the batteries?
I don't think running the program will do any good. All that does is open the system up to recieve up to three (3) transmitters which are on different frequencies. If they are recognized now, i.e., in passive mode it locks and unlocks when you come into or go out of range, reprogramming will not accomplish anything. As a matter of fact, when you try to reprogram a known transmitter to that system nothing will happen. You might be led to believe you have a bigger problem when in fact it is just telling you it knows about that transmitter.
You have a coupe so focus with the two button transmitter. Verify whether or not the hatch button and or door buttons function. Move the transmitters out of range, insert the key in the ignition roll down the window(important), lock the doors with the switch on the door and close the door with the key in the igitition. The moment the door closes it should automatically unlock. If it doesn't reach through the window remove the key and unlock the door. If it doesn't unlock there may be a UTD issue.
But look at the battery first.
I don't think running the program will do any good. All that does is open the system up to recieve up to three (3) transmitters which are on different frequencies. If they are recognized now, i.e., in passive mode it locks and unlocks when you come into or go out of range, reprogramming will not accomplish anything. As a matter of fact, when you try to reprogram a known transmitter to that system nothing will happen. You might be led to believe you have a bigger problem when in fact it is just telling you it knows about that transmitter.
You have a coupe so focus with the two button transmitter. Verify whether or not the hatch button and or door buttons function. Move the transmitters out of range, insert the key in the ignition roll down the window(important), lock the doors with the switch on the door and close the door with the key in the igitition. The moment the door closes it should automatically unlock. If it doesn't reach through the window remove the key and unlock the door. If it doesn't unlock there may be a UTD issue.
But look at the battery first.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,363
Likes: 7
From: 1994 LT1 Coupe 6-speed with FX3 & 2000 LS1 Vert 6-Speed with F45 Hunterdon County, NJ
Door switches or car battery
If other replies do not uncover the problem, here are some more thoughts.
Might the door switches have crapped-out -- i.e. do the interior lights (at night) and radio/clock turn off when opening the door (after key in, on, off, out, door open)? They play into many operations of the car and might cause your problem (they caused all sorts of odd problems with the FOB, alarm, locks, etc on our 94 when we bought the car 2 years ago with both door switches dead)..
Is the battery voltage at least 12 volts (static resting)? I had a couple of times when I reconnected the battery after working on the car and then something (FOB triggered door switches, or door opened, or..) caused the hatch to pop open, as if low/poor connection caused a voltage drop/problem.
Hope this helps...
Might the door switches have crapped-out -- i.e. do the interior lights (at night) and radio/clock turn off when opening the door (after key in, on, off, out, door open)? They play into many operations of the car and might cause your problem (they caused all sorts of odd problems with the FOB, alarm, locks, etc on our 94 when we bought the car 2 years ago with both door switches dead)..
Is the battery voltage at least 12 volts (static resting)? I had a couple of times when I reconnected the battery after working on the car and then something (FOB triggered door switches, or door opened, or..) caused the hatch to pop open, as if low/poor connection caused a voltage drop/problem.
Hope this helps...
Last edited by theadmiral94; Oct 12, 2005 at 10:29 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,421
Likes: 8
From: Lake Mary Florida
Originally Posted by theadmiral94
Is the battery voltage at least 12 volts (static resting)? I had a couple of times when I reconnected the battery after working on the car and then something (FOB triggered door switches, or door opened, or..) caused the hatch to pop open, as if low/poor connection caused a voltage drop/problem.
Hope this helps...
Hope this helps...
Before I started doing this I blew a few courtsey lamp fuses.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: South Pasadena CA
thanks for the tips. I don't know if this is related, but my radio (non stock) which used to continue when I turned off the ignition then stop when I opened the door, now does not shut off when I open the door.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 3,261
Likes: 9
From: sonoma ca
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,421
Likes: 8
From: Lake Mary Florida
Never pulled one but here's the 411 interesting too:
- Remove lower screw. Replace with long screw GM P/N 11503397 or equivalent started into retainer to hold retainer from dropping into door.
- Remove upper screw.
- Pull switch outward and rotate switch to expose upper screw hole.
- Reinstall upper screw to hold retainer.
- Remove lower screw.
- Pull switch outward and depress harness lock tab to allow passage of switch and harness through opening.
- Remove switch from harness.
Install
-Install switch to harness.
- Install switch and harness into door.
- Install long screw through switch and lower door screw hole into retainer.
- Remove upper screw.
- Rotate switch and install upper screw through switch into retainer.
- Remove lower long screw.
- Install original lower screw.
As far as the switch wiring goes; LH Ajar (Blk/Yel) goes to the CCM (C12) and RH Ajar (Blk/Wht) goes to the CCM (D16). This could be a misprint cause it doesn't make sense but on both switches other side (Blk/Wht) goes to ground. Why the RH has both of its wires Blk/Wht is interesting.
Once you have the switch out, you can certainly test continuity when you press it to activate using a DVM.
- Remove lower screw. Replace with long screw GM P/N 11503397 or equivalent started into retainer to hold retainer from dropping into door.
- Remove upper screw.
- Pull switch outward and rotate switch to expose upper screw hole.
- Reinstall upper screw to hold retainer.
- Remove lower screw.
- Pull switch outward and depress harness lock tab to allow passage of switch and harness through opening.
- Remove switch from harness.
Install
-Install switch to harness.
- Install switch and harness into door.
- Install long screw through switch and lower door screw hole into retainer.
- Remove upper screw.
- Rotate switch and install upper screw through switch into retainer.
- Remove lower long screw.
- Install original lower screw.
As far as the switch wiring goes; LH Ajar (Blk/Yel) goes to the CCM (C12) and RH Ajar (Blk/Wht) goes to the CCM (D16). This could be a misprint cause it doesn't make sense but on both switches other side (Blk/Wht) goes to ground. Why the RH has both of its wires Blk/Wht is interesting.
Once you have the switch out, you can certainly test continuity when you press it to activate using a DVM.
