Help on the PKE system
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 2,408
Likes: 3
From: Bel Air Md
Help on the PKE system
Just bought a 93 Ruby. 
The previous owner still had the key fob in the original package. He said he did not use it. I followed the program in the book and when I press the trip/odo button twice, then the fuel/info button, nothing happens. Also, I noticed when I push the gauge button to get the read out on the dash, nothing happens. 
Did not know how it worked untill after I got it home. Any ideas. Other than that, the car is near perfect, only 8,000 miles, new tires and he just replaced the opti since the gasket on the water pump failed Not a good pic 
Sorry this was ment for the tech section 
The previous owner still had the key fob in the original package. He said he did not use it. I followed the program in the book and when I press the trip/odo button twice, then the fuel/info button, nothing happens. Also, I noticed when I push the gauge button to get the read out on the dash, nothing happens. Did not know how it worked untill after I got it home. Any ideas. Other than that, the car is near perfect, only 8,000 miles, new tires and he just replaced the opti since the gasket on the water pump failed Not a good pic Sorry this was ment for the tech section
Last edited by HG; Jan 12, 2006 at 05:29 PM.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 653
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From: Northern New Jersey
St. Jude Donor '03-'05-'06-'07-'08
After you push Trip odo twice you are supposed to press and hold the fuel info button until the PKE light comes on. Are you holding it the full 5 seconds?
Each time you press the guage button, the bottom of the readout should cycle from OIl temp to coolant temp to battery voltage.
The actual readout will show to the left of the gas guage.
Do any of these work??
Each time you press the guage button, the bottom of the readout should cycle from OIl temp to coolant temp to battery voltage.
The actual readout will show to the left of the gas guage.
Do any of these work??
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 2,408
Likes: 3
From: Bel Air Md
Originally Posted by ruby9246
After you push Trip odo twice you are supposed to press and hold the fuel info button until the PKE light comes on. Are you holding it the full 5 seconds?
Each time you press the guage button, the bottom of the readout should cycle from OIl temp to coolant temp to battery voltage.
The actual readout will show to the left of the gas guage.
Do any of these work??
Each time you press the guage button, the bottom of the readout should cycle from OIl temp to coolant temp to battery voltage.
The actual readout will show to the left of the gas guage.
Do any of these work??
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,421
Likes: 8
From: Lake Mary Florida
Hmmm, wonder if that button cluster is malfunctioning. The assumption is that the analog gauges are working correctly?
Try running the oil monitor reset, press ENG/MET twice within 5 seconds and press and hold the GAUGES button. The Change Oil lamp left of the RPM needle should start flashing, about 12 times then goes out. If it doesn't start flashing then perhaps you have a button cluster issue.
... 13 going on 14 and only 8K on the clock probably should expect some of these kinds of issues.
Try running the oil monitor reset, press ENG/MET twice within 5 seconds and press and hold the GAUGES button. The Change Oil lamp left of the RPM needle should start flashing, about 12 times then goes out. If it doesn't start flashing then perhaps you have a button cluster issue.
... 13 going on 14 and only 8K on the clock probably should expect some of these kinds of issues.
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2004
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[QUOTE=HG]Just bought a 93 Ruby. The previous owner still had the key fob in the original package. He said he did not use it.
When I purchase my 93, the guy said he pulled the fuse out of the fuse panel for the PKE because he didn't like it.... I'd check the fuse...
The previous owner still had the key fob in the original package. He said he did not use it. When I purchase my 93, the guy said he pulled the fuse out of the fuse panel for the PKE because he didn't like it.... I'd check the fuse...
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Race Director
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Lake Mary Florida
Originally Posted by HG
OK, I'll try that over the weekend, it's too late and cold now.
If none of that is happening, then this may be an exercise in gaining access to the button cluster. Unplug and then re-plug it in. Ign back to On to see if they work. If not then start your troubleshooting there.
Once the buttons are working then I would first look at enabling the passive mode. If the passive mode is Off or disabled, when you turn the Ign to On the DIC does a bulb test and watch for the PKE lamp to illuminate for just a second then go out. If the PKE lamp on the DIC does not come on as the Ign is first turned to On then the system is not in passive mode.
With the driver's door open and the key removed from the ignition, press and hold the Door button on the transmitter fob. After about 2 secs the locks should cycle. If they do then put the key back in the Ign and do a bulb test again, does the PKE lamp come on for a moment. If it does then you have now enabled passive mode. The system should then be functioning normally.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,867
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From: Pasadena Maryland
The FSM gives shows how to check for PKE error codes. Use the ALDL and ground one of the pins, i am not sure which one i'll try to look it up tonight.
Check this thread fo rthe aldl pins to short.
Driver's side door lock affecting my non-working PKE
Check this thread fo rthe aldl pins to short.
Driver's side door lock affecting my non-working PKE
Last edited by kalister1; Jan 13, 2006 at 09:29 AM.
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Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Ladson SC
I'm wrestling with a PKE issue on my '94 too. At the moment I have the dash cover removed and most of the bezels because I'm in the process of reseating my passenger airbag cover. Anyway, at this point I can see the PKE module and it looks intact. When I bought the car a couple months back the PKE system did not work at all (not passive and not pushing the fob buttons) so I started by replacing the battery, (which was a pain to find since standard CR2450's will not work). I eventually got some CR2450 batteries that fit and checked good with a meter. I then tried to program the system, but I never got a PKE light to illuminate on the driver information center after pushing the button sequence. Further investigation showed that the light didn't come on during bulb test either (which I'm told it should). Today I hit the guy up down the street with a '96 an we went through the process of programming my fob to his car with no problems; so my fob is ok. I've unplugged and replugged the wires on the PKE module with no effect; the only thing I haven't checked is the bulb in the Driver information center. Anyone disagree I'm looking at a dead module and if it is dead does anyone know where to get one?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,137
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From: Howard PA
Since I'm up late with heartburn I figured this would be a good post to reply to and get my mind off the heartburn.
Three Fuses...
RDO Batt. (If the radio works I'd suppose this fuse is good)
PKE Fuse (This one only runs the PKE module and nothing else)
POWER DOOR LOCK Fuse (Runs your power door locks through the PKE module, also provides power to the PKE indicator bulb. If your power door locks work this fuse is probably OK also.)
Sounds like the original poster has problems with the buttons not activating anything in the cluster.
I had a large post about the PKE system and great detail how to troubleshoot it but it must yhave went by the wayside during the server upgrade.
One other thing to look at is the key in ignition switch, you must hear the buzzer (chime) when the key is in and open your door. The key in the ignition switch was bad on my car therefore the PKE system never went into a "ready" state to allow programing. After I fixed that and reslodered every connection in my FOB it worked.
Also codes will not display if the "key in ingnition switch" isn't working.
The schems. below are for a 96 but I suppose a 93 is the same. I'm not sure it's legal to post schems. frankly I don't care. If it's against forum rules please delete them.
Three Fuses...
RDO Batt. (If the radio works I'd suppose this fuse is good)
PKE Fuse (This one only runs the PKE module and nothing else)
POWER DOOR LOCK Fuse (Runs your power door locks through the PKE module, also provides power to the PKE indicator bulb. If your power door locks work this fuse is probably OK also.)
Sounds like the original poster has problems with the buttons not activating anything in the cluster.
I had a large post about the PKE system and great detail how to troubleshoot it but it must yhave went by the wayside during the server upgrade.
One other thing to look at is the key in ignition switch, you must hear the buzzer (chime) when the key is in and open your door. The key in the ignition switch was bad on my car therefore the PKE system never went into a "ready" state to allow programing. After I fixed that and reslodered every connection in my FOB it worked.
Also codes will not display if the "key in ingnition switch" isn't working.
The schems. below are for a 96 but I suppose a 93 is the same. I'm not sure it's legal to post schems. frankly I don't care. If it's against forum rules please delete them.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 2,408
Likes: 3
From: Bel Air Md
I was surprised yesterday when I walked away and the doors locked. I did change the battery in the fob. I did notice that the locking clicked several times before the latch was actually in the lock position. When I walked back, it clicks but the locks won’t open. Then when I walk away, it clicks again, the horn beeps . The prior owner said he never used the PKE or actually locked the car with the buttons very often. The PKE was still in the factory package with instruction written on it showing how to program the fob. The car has only 7700 miles and I’m thinking the lock assembly may be just stiff like my back in the morning. I’ll try the reprogramming again and see what happens.
Last edited by HG; Jan 22, 2006 at 02:56 PM.
Advanced
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From: Ladson SC
Thanks, the schematic will help a lot. I have an aftermarket keyless entry system on stand-by to put in; but I do want to retain the OEM system if possible. Thanks again to all!
Since we're sharing info I thought I'd post pics of what the subject of discussion looks like.
Since we're sharing info I thought I'd post pics of what the subject of discussion looks like.
Last edited by spinktec; Jan 22, 2006 at 01:56 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,137
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From: Howard PA
One other thing I'd like to mention. If all else fails and you come to the conclusion you're PKE module might be the culprit, take it out and and either resolder the bulkhead connections to the PCB yourself or have an electronics repair shop do it.
This thing sits right under the dash where heat and dry air can get to it. Not good for solder, even if you can't see any broken connections that doesn't mean there aren't any (been there done that) resolder them anyway. It's kind of a pain because the board is coated and you have to scratch the crap off before you can resolder them.
I relsoldered mine because some looked "iffy" and it's even possible this may have fixed mine. I think it was mostly the key in ignition switch though.
This thing sits right under the dash where heat and dry air can get to it. Not good for solder, even if you can't see any broken connections that doesn't mean there aren't any (been there done that) resolder them anyway. It's kind of a pain because the board is coated and you have to scratch the crap off before you can resolder them.
I relsoldered mine because some looked "iffy" and it's even possible this may have fixed mine. I think it was mostly the key in ignition switch though.
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Ladson SC
Well, my PKE module board looks good; it's the cleanest, newest looking part in the whole car. I've checked all inputs and outputs to the PKE module using the schematic and they all look good too. The PKE module seems to monitor all inputs correctly and responds as expected in every way except it does not EVER illuminate the PKE light at the DIC panel (btw, checked the bulb and it is ok). According to the schematic it is the Central control module that gives the PKE module the "program request signal" at pin B6. I monitored this pin and attempted a programing sequence (trip odo twice, hold the fuel info button); after about 8 seconds of holding the fuel info button the pin dropped from 5v to 0v momentarily. I'm assuming this is the signal that should send the module into program mode, but it doesn't. So I'm convinced and ready to buy a new PKE module, but I've no idea the GM part number; anyone know what it is. The Lectron part number (10256465) marked on it doesn't seem to cross reference to anything.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,867
Likes: 3
From: Pasadena Maryland
Originally Posted by spinktec
So I'm convinced and ready to buy a new PKE module, but I've no idea the GM part number; anyone know what it is. The Lectron part number (10256465) marked on it doesn't seem to cross reference to anything.
