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Pulling Engine, how to remove tanny bolts

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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 04:33 PM
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Default Pulling Engine, how to remove tanny bolts

Well i now have everything off my engine and unbolted, ready to go. Everything but the auto transmission to the engine bolts, i beleive there are 6 around the tranny. I am having the hardest time getting to them. I'm almost considering tilting the tranny so i can get behind the engine and get to the bolts. Everything sits so close to that dang firewell. Any suggestions??? Oh and will i need to remove the windsheild wiper motor?
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 04:48 PM
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Remove the distributor (or at least the cap). support the trans with a jack on the tail shaft and remove the mount, driveshaft and all. Slowly lower the jack so that the engine & trans tilt. Using a 3 foot estention and 9/16" universal socket (wobble socket) remove the bolts. Raise the jack so the engine/trans are level again. Using a jack on wheels, put a piece of wood on the pan (one that covers the pan pretty well) support the trans with the jack and start moving the trans aft until it is clear of the engine.
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 07:52 PM
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Has worked for me TWICE now... LOL

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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Morley
Remove the distributor (or at least the cap). support the trans with a jack on the tail shaft and remove the mount, driveshaft and all. Slowly lower the jack so that the engine & trans tilt. Using a 3 foot estention and 9/16" universal socket (wobble socket) remove the bolts. Raise the jack so the engine/trans are level again. Using a jack on wheels, put a piece of wood on the pan (one that covers the pan pretty well) support the trans with the jack and start moving the trans aft until it is clear of the engine.

9/16", eh? They're not metric? I would not have guessed that...
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 01:04 AM
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They are actually 14mm but it is close to the same size as a 9/16...

Mo
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 01:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Morley
Remove the distributor cap.
Support the trans with a bottle jack on the tail shaft
Remove the C-Beam bolts, driveshaft and all.
Slowly lower the jack so that the engine & trans tilt.
Using a 3 foot estention and 9/16" universal socket remove the bolts.
While its tilted back remove the oil lines to the cooler.
Raise the jack so the engine/trans are level again.
Using a jack on wheels, put a piece of wood on the pan, support the trans with the jack.
Move the bottle jack to the oil pan on the engine. Wood again...
Start moving the trans aft until it is clear of the engine.
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 01:47 AM
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Everything these guys just said. Once you tilt the trans down a ways, they're relatively easy to get to with a long extension. Make a note of which bolts have ground wires installed, wire harness retainer brackets, etc, so that when you reinstall, everything goes back like it was.
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 01:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Mo_Bandy
They are actually 14mm but it is close to the same size as a 9/16...

Mo
And it is hard to find a 14mm universal socket...but 9/16 can be had at sears.
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 03:53 AM
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Everything posted is right on the money, but I have one thing to add...

On my 87 I was gonna take out the spark plugs to aid in removing the 3 torque converter/flexplate bolts but didn't.

I just used a long flat tipped screw driver to turn the engine over to access all three bolts, it was pretty easy compared to pulling the plugs
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 03:56 AM
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Oh, also, didn't remove the distributor, but did remove the cap (gets pretty freekn' close to the firewall otherwise...)
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