i know that this is going to sound dumb, but....
how do i drain and refill the brake fluid on an '84. also heres the really dumb part, how do you bleed the brakes.

 

You can get brake bleeders where u hook it up to the line and it has a valve to open close it. Very easy to do. I believe www.mamotorworks.com sells them for $20 or so.

 

BTW refill withh dot 4 fluid in the master brake cylinder

 

It's a pretty easy procedure. Start with the passenger rear then driver rear then passenger front then driver front. Remove the wheel you are working on. Loosen the bleed fitting on the caliper and attach a length of clear hose one end to the fitting and submerge the other end of the hose into a jar that is half filled with fresh brake fluid. Open the master cylinder cover and top off the fluid. Begin depressing the brake pedal very slowly and steadily to the floor and keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder as to not let if go below 1/4 full. Keep filling the master cylinder until clean brake fluid comes out the open bleeder valve and there are no visible bubbles in the hose. Close the valve and wipe up any excess brake fluid. Proceed to each wheel in the above sequence and top off the master cylinder when all the old fluid is flushed. Keep an eye on the jar and empty it into your oil recycling container when it's full. If you use a big enough jar, you can empty it after each wheel is done. There are special bleeder hoses that have a check valve built in which allows fluid and air to travel away from the caliper and prevents any air or fluid to be drawn back into the caliper. Once complete, your brake system will be flushed and bled Hope this helps

 

 

I prefer speedbleeders. It makes the job a one person job.

www.speedbleeders.co,
I beleive the part is SB1010. If you want stainless steel it is
SB1010 SS.

If you do not want to jack the car and do this you can also use a turkey baster or battery syringe and suck out the brake fluid through the master cylinder and refill with Valvoline Synpower DOT3 & DOT 4 brake fluid.
drive for a day or two and them suck out and refill.
Do that for the contnets of the bottle yo buy and your system will be changed out.

 

Strange way to do it but it seems logical. Thanks. Ima try that this weekend. Bleeding the brakes is a *****.

 

I didn't know that brakes where a recirculation system? How does this get the old fluid out of the calipers?

 

On some vehicles, hooking up hoses dropped into containers of brake fluid, opening the the bleeder valves, and self bleeding can still cause air to enter the system, especially when releasing the brake pedal. Air is sometimes drawn into the system around the bleeder screw threads. Using an assistant to open the bleeder screw after the system is pumped up and closing the bleeder screw after the pedal goes down to the floor will prevent air from entering the system. From what I can see, the one-way brake bleeders use some kind of sealant on the threads to help prevent air from being sucked back into the system. You can be bleeding the brakes thinking you are bleeding them when in fact you aren't. Unless you're using bleeders or having an assistant open and close the screws it can be frustrating doing it yourself as a one man operation thinking the system is being bled, when you're actually adding air into it. It's especially frustrating if this is the first time you've done it. Take the advice offered here and then ask a friend who's done it for help. This way you have both the advice offered here and the expertise of someone who's done it before so you're prepared to do the job.

Art

 

I use the turkey baster method, but think bleeding might be better.

 

So are you saying with speedbleeders you need to do them one at a time and run a hose into a jar of fluid? I need to put them on my 90, just did a fresh brake job and still have a spongy pedal.

 

spongey? air in the lines,failing master cylinder or brake booster?? I hope not. Pain in the ***

 

The 1991 Corvette GM service manual says to bleed the wheels in the following order
start by depleting the vacuum reserve by pumping the brakes with the engine off.
Fill the master cylinder, and keep it at least half full.

Bleed the master cylinder by removing the forward (blind end) brake pipe at the master cylinder. allow fluid to fill the master cylinder bore until it flows from the forward pipe connection port. Then reconnect the forward pipe.
Now depress brake pedal one time and hold.... then loosen forward brake pipe connection at the master cylinder to purge any air from the bore. hold the pedal and tighten the connecton. Release pedal slowly. Wait 15 seconds and repeat. Repeat including 15 sec waits until all air is removed.

Then repeat the sequence at teh rear (cowl) connection.

Only after bleeding the master cylinder, you should move to the wheel calipers and bleed in the following order

right front
right rear
left rear
left front

The book says to depress the pedal once and hold..... I always thought you pumped the brake up before opening the bleeder valve, Also, the book says to slowly release the pedal after you tighten the bleeder valve, and wait 15 seconds.

This makes sense.... so yo don't turn the air in to multiple bubbles in the line.

Hope this helps..
I plan to do mine this next weekend.

Gene

 

Speedbleeders were the best, cheap investment i've made. If you are fast, you can do a bleed, yourself in 20-30 minutes.

 

You are right; they aren't. That turkey-baster method does not replace the fluid from the lines or the calipers, it only changes the fluid in the master cylinder...which is the place that really doesn't need it.

Larry
code5coupe

 

tahnks for the help everyone, im going to order some speedbleeder this week.

 

 

I recently purchased a brake bleeder that works with an air compressor. It was the best investment I ever made. It was so easy.

http://www.griotsgarage.com/search.j...=brake+bleeder

 

http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html
Check here for a pressure bleeder. Fill teh bottle with fluid add compressor and force out the old fluid.

 

im not sure about the air compressor, sounds expensiva and messy