Well, maybe things change, but I've been doing my own brake jobs for 45+ years, and I've been taught and abide by starting with the furthest away for bleeding. Just makes it easier, as CC said, it really doesn't make any difference...you just have to get all the air out of the system.

Your brake booster sounds bad to me.

 

it holds a vacume...ive tested it a few times...

while driving the pedal feels stronger and weaker at times...

 

Maybe your engine isn't making enough vacuum? Any vacuum leaks? Do you have a high idle, or rough idle?

 

when i first bought the car there was a hose its about 2 or 3 inches long on the right side under the cover that was off...i put it back on and then ir ran at a lower rpm i bumped the idle up..if the hose is off it will run at a higher rpm...

anyways no other vacume leaks...

 

Are the calipers floating properly?

I know on my car I can lock up all 4 without any trouble, but then, I dont have ABS either.

You should never have to go past 50% to hold the car at a light.

 

Holds a vacuum at zero travel, but the booster port isn't even open then. Try engaging the booster as if you were on the brakes, then see if you can pull a vacuum on on it. It will take a little while to pull a vacuum on the booster cavity with a hand pump because it's a larger volume there in front of the diaphram.

 

TTT for good brakes..

 

thanks..RED-85-Z51 and CentralCoaster..just tested it..the way you said cc... i havent had time to bleed them again...i would right now but i have to go into work and mount up my new drag radials..

 

One, if the pedal is firm, then no amount of bleeding will help.
Two, 'Coaster is quite correct; the order in which you bleed the system does not make one bit of difference. (if you stop to think about what goes on during the bleeding, you'll understand why)
Three, don't worry about doing anything special to the thigamajig.

I'd look at the booster/vacuum first, then the pads as being the culprit(s) here.
My C4's brakes are phenominal....yours will be, too, when you get them working right. Guarantee.

Larry
code5coupe

EDIT: ...and, four: don't be using those DR's until you get the brakes fixed!!
AND, it's spelled "brakes". Not "breaks".

 

"... the order in which you bleed the system does not make one bit of difference. (if you stop to think about what goes on during the bleeding, you'll understand why).."

I'm thinking about it. You mean I can bleed the front brakes first and it's ok vs. the rears first?

 

Yep.

Larry
code5coupe

 

huh...
no my brakes work but they dont feel like they stop good enough..
im going to replace the pads see if that helps...and its hard to say if the pedal is ferm or not...i hate brakes

 

Yes because they are on entirely different circuits.

 

update...went to the track tonight...befor i went out there i looked over some things..toped off the brake fluid and now abs light doesnt come on! and seems to stop a little better..when i would make my pass and slow down to turn off the track my car would shake when i was on the brakes and idea's?

 

This can happen if the rotors are warped, or if there's grease on the rotors.

 

i think im going to buy new rotors..drilled and sloted...for up front..and new pads..that seems to be where the vibes were..

 

Don't buy drilled rotors, you'll make baby Jesus cry. Drilled rotors are a downgrade. Get yours turned at Pep Boys for $8 each.

 

dont want to do that...
whats wrong with drilled...how about sloted?
i thought that it helps brakeing..
ill have to do that sunday..discount tire makes me work all freeking day on saturdays...

 

Just for a reference point, C4 brakes should stop you with great power. Something is very wrong with your system and you need to fix it. My brake booster was bad, and after replacing it, the difference was amazing. The rod length is critical. Too short, no power, too long, the brakes will drag and get worse as you drive and heat them up. I had a shop do mine, and they left it too long You can adjust it yourself from the engine side with basic hand tools. Just unbolt the M/C, leave the lines intact, move it out of the way. Have someone depress the pedal (or use a 2 by 4 cut to length) so you can get a grip on the rod with pliers, and turn the small bolt on the rod end counterclockwise to get more length. In your case I would guess more length is needed, try two whole threads. Put it back together and go for a 15 minute ride at least. If your brakes drag, shorten the rod some. If you cannot get them to drag no matter how long you make the rod, you have the wrong booster or a bad M/C. To check booster operation, start the car with your foot on the brake, it should depress 1/4 inch and stop. Next, the M/C may be bad or full of air. Did you bench bleed it (fill it and work the air out)before installation? Press on the brake with the car running and hold it for a few minutes. It should not depress further. If it does, your M/C is bad unless you have brake fluid on the ground under the car. Bad aftermarket parts suck and can confuse you, but follow these instructions and you will find the problem.

 

If You autocross all the time, and have expensive racing pads, by all means invest in a good set of SLotted Rotors. All they do is under long hard braking allow superheated brake gases a place to escape, rather than building up between the pad and rotor, causing fade.

Cross Drilled rotors are useless. They tend to crack between the holes.

Id suggest getting a new set of front rotors and pads. I know my front rotors are nearing the end of their life cycle, and the pads are about 1/2 done...so Ill likely replace both at the same time. Also, Ive heard that it is good to "bed in" a new set of rotors and pads...

If you have the $$ to throw at it, upgrade to Z06 Calipers and Rotors, should be pretty simple if you have 17" rims.