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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 03:46 PM
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 04:20 PM
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First, are you sure they can just spray the whole car for a little more? Or, will it be a lot more? I mean, we're talking about prep to get it ready. Otherwise, don't you think you'll either wind up with an instantly crappy job all around or a soon-to-be crappy job like your door which lasted all of what? 3 years before it started flaking? Just some questions.

As to the spoiler, any good body/paint shop can do an excellent job of removal and patching. That is, if it needs to be patched. Altho remotely possible, it could be a stick on spoiler.

Whatever you do, make sure you answer the questions for yourself, not necessarily us, so you're not just throwing money away. Because if you do, we'll have to hear about it in your future posts.
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 05:45 PM
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I'm not a big spoiler fan, but it's really hard to get rid of the holes without it shrinking back in a year or so leaving marks where they were.
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 08:46 PM
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You could have them paint some hole plugs at the same time. It will be a good conversation starter at shows when people want to know what the plugs are there for. "Yeah, I was running from the helicopter gun ship. Was I ever lucky that those two bullets missed the gas tank or I would have been dead meat."
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by bsmutz
You could have them paint some hole plugs at the same time. It will be a good conversation starter at shows when people want to know what the plugs are there for. "Yeah, I was running from the helicopter gun ship. Was I ever lucky that those two bullets missed the gas tank or I would have been dead meat."
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 11:49 PM
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If they know how to repair SMC they should be able to restore it.

Could also be the paint application. There so many possible things that can go wrong during paint application that can cause a variety of problems not necessarily related to prep. But proper finish prep is important. But things like improper pressure and flow settings, temperature, humidity, and the painter can be a cause as well. Flaking, that sounds like clear coat issues.
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 12:33 AM
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I'll look tomorrow I may have a few pdfs that might help enlighten you. If so I'll post links to them.... <grin> I should be in bed right now!
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 12:48 AM
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Keep in mind that there are only 3 kinds of work- Good, Fast and Cheap. You can pick any two. Good Luck.

Last edited by JrsTurn; Jul 19, 2006 at 01:00 AM.
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by vancityguy
thanks dude, any help is greatly appreciated
Try these sites, they have lists of possible problems, their cause and solutions:

http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/re...hooting_guide/

http://www.ppg.com/cr-refinish/phase...efectGroup.asp
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 11:51 AM
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If it were me and your having it completely re-shot again, one thing I'd insist on is a complete application of scotch brite pad (med) followed with a detailed wet finish sand and prep. As well as know the particular brand of paint to be used, obtain the manufacture data/use sheet on that product and know what they call for in their application.

Research clear coats applications learn what options there are. They are differences between manufacturers.

I'd also insist on urethane finish products, that's what I would do. If you befriend the painter and shop manager of who is doing the job perhaps they might let you observe. Just depends on what level of detail your looking for.
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 06:53 PM
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Well, they didn't get right the 1st time what makes you think that things have changed?

"theres always time enough the second time to do it right".
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Old Jul 20, 2006 | 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Jet-Jock
If it were me and your having it completely re-shot again, one thing I'd insist on is a complete application of scotch brite pad (med) followed with a detailed wet finish sand and prep. As well as know the particular brand of paint to be used, obtain the manufacture data/use sheet on that product and know what they call for in their application.

Research clear coats applications learn what options there are. They are differences between manufacturers.

I'd also insist on urethane finish products, that's what I would do. If you befriend the painter and shop manager of who is doing the job perhaps they might let you observe. Just depends on what level of detail your looking for.
Lani, I haven't squirted paint since the Imron days. (That's what I learned on.)

Do they offer base coat/clear coat systems in urethane?
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Old Jul 20, 2006 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by vancityguy
well i know the shop is overall good but sometimes workers slack off from time to time, maybe it was a friday and they wanted to wrap up and go who really knows... i will give them the opportunity to rectify the situation before i crap all over their name and give them a bad rep, everyone deserves a chance to make things right and do good in my opinion.
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Old Sep 12, 2006 | 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by AILERON
Lani, I haven't squirted paint since the Imron days. (That's what I learned on.)

Do they offer base coat/clear coat systems in urethane?
Sorry I never saw this thread.

Yeah me too except I knew better than to shoot that stuff and stayed with Acrylic enamel.

Yes base/clear is available in urethane. Matter of fact that is what I used to re-shoot the nose and passenger door belt line. All the manufacturers make it. I choose Sherwin-Williams all three parts (primer, base, clear) were urethane.

I cannot say for certain 100% but I believe base/clear urethane is what the factory uses.
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Old Sep 12, 2006 | 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by vancityguy
just a update i spoke with the shop a couple times and after them looking into matters and me being persistant they agreed to make the necessary repairs... upon us both looking at the car we found air pockets/bubbles/cracks at least on every other area of my car so clearly someone did a half *** job but they said they will take care of everything... i dropped the c4 off this morning i will let u guys know what happens when i get it back(still not sure how long it'll be)
Well, this has certainly taken a very positive turn!! Let's all hope it comes out looking great. Good luck with it!
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 05:52 PM
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Go back re-read the link I placed for Sherwin-Williams paint problems. Look at Blistering.

There is no reason why it cannot be corrected. Sounds like someone has decided they don't want to invest the time and resources into correcting their mistake.

This doesn't surprise me at all, considering the way business do business in the 21st century.

Sorry your having to endure this.
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Old Sep 15, 2006 | 09:07 PM
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what do you think is the average price to have a vette painted? thinking of getting mine painted
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Old Sep 16, 2006 | 07:08 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Jet-Jock
Sorry I never saw this thread.

Yeah me too except I knew better than to shoot that stuff and stayed with Acrylic enamel.

Yes base/clear is available in urethane. Matter of fact that is what I used to re-shoot the nose and passenger door belt line. All the manufacturers make it. I choose Sherwin-Williams all three parts (primer, base, clear) were urethane.

I cannot say for certain 100% but I believe base/clear urethane is what the factory uses.
I had completely forgotten about this thread and my question. Thanks, Lani.

Vancityguy, your spoiler holes can be fixed without fear of shrinking if you use epoxy resin and microballoons to do the repair. The balloons are glass spheres, also known as microspheres, and are a structural material, unlike plastic fillers. I did my floors with it, I've built airplanes with it, and we do many, many composite repairs on our B727s, MD11s, and Airbus's with it.

I'm probably going to have my car painted in a year or two as I've also got some bubbling, but if I don't wind up doing it myself, I'm not going to fool around with local body shops. I will find a Vette-specific outfit and pay the piper. Just a thought.
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