More progress..(pics)
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,421
Likes: 8
From: Lake Mary Florida
Originally Posted by MR.LT1
Thanks guys, tomorrow I am gonna flush the power steering fluid with the turkey baster,and drain the antifreeze and start changing the radiator hoses and thermostat...(also still waiting on my heater hoses from Ecklers)
then in a couple of days will do fuel filter...then after all that "Brakes"
then in a couple of days will do fuel filter...then after all that "Brakes"
If you don't have one of these I'd pick one up, makes removing those hoses child's play.
Hose Clamp Pliers
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,088
Likes: 0
From: Poop land
I don't understand how you LT1 guys take such a long time to change spark plugs. Is there really much more stuff in the way of the LT1? Gawd, because it only takes me 20 minutes from start to finish. I also have all my whole AIR system completely off, and never to function again. I remember with the AIR system was still on and also be being a newb last year, it took me about 2 hours.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,110
Likes: 6
From: Red Sox Nation! RI
Good for you!
The lamp is priceless!! Is that from Bed, Bath & Brakes?
You know you've spent too much time reading this forum when you've got a camera in the garage and you're taking pictures of spark plugs. You people are wacky.
p.s. here's a picture of a dragon fly from hell that was chasing me around in my garage the other night.
The lamp is priceless!! Is that from Bed, Bath & Brakes?
You know you've spent too much time reading this forum when you've got a camera in the garage and you're taking pictures of spark plugs. You people are wacky.
p.s. here's a picture of a dragon fly from hell that was chasing me around in my garage the other night.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,325
Likes: 47
From: South Florida
Just flushed out the power steering fluid took me about 5 minutes with the special tool..."The turkey baster" 
used valvoline "Syn power" fluid..
Going to do it on my daily drivers today also..
will repeat it again tomorrow to make sure I get all the fluid....
used valvoline "Syn power" fluid..Going to do it on my daily drivers today also..
will repeat it again tomorrow to make sure I get all the fluid....
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,088
Likes: 0
From: Poop land
Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Yep. Try an LT1 some time
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Race Director
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,421
Likes: 8
From: Lake Mary Florida
Originally Posted by kopbet89c4
I'd kill myself if I had to. How much easier would it be with none of that ASR, cruise control, AIR system and emissions BS was there?
It's only a PITA the first time, once you've been in there and figured out all the tricks it really isn't that much of a job. Probably about an hour to hour and a half. Although there is no reason to rush, you certainly don't want to mis-thread a spark plug.
You can actually do this job with 3/8" rachet, standard socket and one small extension.
Work on a cold engine. Use anti-seize on the plug threads.
As far as the passenger side, #8 is in a tight area. The trick is to straddle the tire (front side), remove the nut holding the fuel lines to evap housing so they are flexible, fit the plug socket on the plug, put a towel on the engine, lean with your right arm and come down vertically from the top (left arm/hand) with the end of the rachet pointing up. Fit the rachet to the socket and loosen. (When you install them repeat in reverse except subsitute torque wrench for rachet).
On the driver's side, remove the center and aft sections of the wheel liner. (Second bolt from the top securing the center section to the aft section will release the ASR unit head so that it is flexible). Come in from underneath the ASR unit directly to the plugs. You shouldn't need any extensions, it is all in the angles so be patient and work with it. Likewise on installation you can get a torque wrench on each and every plug.
Torque is very important, in addition to a properly seated plug, a properly torqued plug will aid in heat dissapation.
[need a spell checker]
Last edited by Jet-Jock; Aug 5, 2006 at 10:04 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,325
Likes: 47
From: South Florida
Originally Posted by Jet-Jock
It's only a PITA the first time, once you've been in there and figured out all the tricks it really isn't that much of a job. Probably about an hour to hour and a half. Although there is no reason to rush, you certainly don't want to mis-thread a spark plug.
well installed upper and lower radiator hoses also thermostat...need to run to auto store I am short one clamp...now just waiting for heater hoses to come in..
PCV valve was also changed...
was pretty simple the whole job, hardest part was getting the hoses off the "T" connection on top so much crud it was glued on there seemed like..I just made a slit on the old hoses to pull them off and pryed a bit with screwdriver...I cleaned everything up and reinstalled....another job complete..."NEXT"!
Last edited by MR.LT1; Aug 5, 2006 at 12:56 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,421
Likes: 8
From: Lake Mary Florida
Did you bleed the coolant system?
One screw under the throttle body and the other on the thermostat housing. Open the surge tank ensure it is topped off, tuck an absorbant rag under the thottle body to catch the coolant, open the bleed screw until the air is gone and a steady flow. Tuck the rag under the thermostat bleed and open that bleed (7mm) same until flow of coolant. Close and retop off the surge tank. AT ALL COST do not allow coolant to get on the opti-spark distributor.
Start engine and monitor the temps. When it gets to about 185, the surge tank coolant should show flow, ensure it is topped off the lower neck and close the cap.
One screw under the throttle body and the other on the thermostat housing. Open the surge tank ensure it is topped off, tuck an absorbant rag under the thottle body to catch the coolant, open the bleed screw until the air is gone and a steady flow. Tuck the rag under the thermostat bleed and open that bleed (7mm) same until flow of coolant. Close and retop off the surge tank. AT ALL COST do not allow coolant to get on the opti-spark distributor.
Start engine and monitor the temps. When it gets to about 185, the surge tank coolant should show flow, ensure it is topped off the lower neck and close the cap.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,325
Likes: 47
From: South Florida
Originally Posted by Jet-Jock
Did you bleed the coolant system?
here are the old hoses and thermostat:
here is the finished job minus heater hoses....
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,421
Likes: 8
From: Lake Mary Florida
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...TOOL&ihtoken=1
I think I paid a little less at the store but it's been a few years.
I think I paid a little less at the store but it's been a few years.
Bench Racer
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,201
Likes: 15
From: Palm Beach Gardens FL
St. Jude '03 thru 14,'25
Originally Posted by Jet-Jock
It's only a PITA the first time, once you've been in there and figured out all the tricks it really isn't that much of a job. Probably about an hour to hour and a half. Although there is no reason to rush, you certainly don't want to mis-thread a spark plug.
You can actually do this job with 3/8" rachet, standard socket and one small extension.
Work on a cold engine. Use anti-seize on the plug threads.
As far as the passenger side, #8 is in a tight area. The trick is to straddle the tire (front side), remove the nut holding the fuel lines to evap housing so they are flexible, fit the plug socket on the plug, put a towel on the engine, lean with your right arm and come down vertically from the top (left arm/hand) with the end of the rachet pointing up. Fit the rachet to the socket and loosen. (When you install them repeat in reverse except subsitute torque wrench for rachet).
On the driver's side, remove the center and aft sections of the wheel liner. (Second bolt from the top securing the center section to the aft section will release the ASR unit head so that it is flexible). Come in from underneath the ASR unit directly to the plugs. You shouldn't need any extensions, it is all in the angles so be patient and work with it. Likewise on installation you can get a torque wrench on each and every plug.
Torque is very important, in addition to a properly seated plug, a properly torque plug with aid in heat dissapation.
You can actually do this job with 3/8" rachet, standard socket and one small extension.
Work on a cold engine. Use anti-seize on the plug threads.
As far as the passenger side, #8 is in a tight area. The trick is to straddle the tire (front side), remove the nut holding the fuel lines to evap housing so they are flexible, fit the plug socket on the plug, put a towel on the engine, lean with your right arm and come down vertically from the top (left arm/hand) with the end of the rachet pointing up. Fit the rachet to the socket and loosen. (When you install them repeat in reverse except subsitute torque wrench for rachet).
On the driver's side, remove the center and aft sections of the wheel liner. (Second bolt from the top securing the center section to the aft section will release the ASR unit head so that it is flexible). Come in from underneath the ASR unit directly to the plugs. You shouldn't need any extensions, it is all in the angles so be patient and work with it. Likewise on installation you can get a torque wrench on each and every plug.
Torque is very important, in addition to a properly seated plug, a properly torque plug with aid in heat dissapation.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,421
Likes: 8
From: Lake Mary Florida
Hey John... well most of it I have... I want a new GL2 camcorder (grin). My brother has that part already but I want one too!
Well if I ever get time, I still have on my plate to write a procedure for intake manifold R&R, AC R&R, and a few more I can't think of at the moment.
Today I got the fun (PITA) job of replacing the sick-dying tone generator. Took me a good part of the day to do that. Darn thing sits on top of the PKE module which is buried under the IP just behind the center console air vent. So that required removing the console trim, radio bezel, all vents, side panels, passenger foot well panel, defrost/solar sensor, and the IP pad. Gosh darn I remove the interior of the Vette so many times I think I can do it blindfolded now. I also installed new hood stops, but that didn't take long. The old one's the rubber got hard and flattened out, new one's the rubber is soft and has a new crown on them.
Don't you know I'm in a race to replace all the parts, one at a time hopefully before they discontinued the OEM parts! LOL
Well if I ever get time, I still have on my plate to write a procedure for intake manifold R&R, AC R&R, and a few more I can't think of at the moment.
Today I got the fun (PITA) job of replacing the sick-dying tone generator. Took me a good part of the day to do that. Darn thing sits on top of the PKE module which is buried under the IP just behind the center console air vent. So that required removing the console trim, radio bezel, all vents, side panels, passenger foot well panel, defrost/solar sensor, and the IP pad. Gosh darn I remove the interior of the Vette so many times I think I can do it blindfolded now. I also installed new hood stops, but that didn't take long. The old one's the rubber got hard and flattened out, new one's the rubber is soft and has a new crown on them.
Don't you know I'm in a race to replace all the parts, one at a time hopefully before they discontinued the OEM parts! LOL