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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 08:46 PM
  #21  
TealJewel's Avatar
TealJewel
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From: Magnolia TX
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When I received scratches from my long nails, or smaller gashes, I used Polishing compound and it removed all of them very well. Never had problem with deeper ones, but hey, that shiny console looks the bomb too!~
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 10:58 PM
  #22  
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DaveN355
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From: Lafayette IN
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Originally Posted by DG'sVette
How did you take the coating off?
Mine was peeling also. I found the best was to rub my thumb over the peeled edge until it became loose then began peeling it. It took me about three evenings to get it all peeled off (and I wasn't able to get the layer off in the ashtray, etc.).

My console top seemed to have another layer of the dulco coating, so when done it, it matched the rest of the dash not too bad.

That said, I did by an aftermarket replacement. I don't care what they say about having the "correct rubber coating", it isn't. It has a very tacky feel and marks real easy (it even shows the markes of the bubble wrap).

I bought some interior dye from Mid America and painted it with about three coats. It came out looking pretty good.

Dave
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 12:09 AM
  #23  
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vinnies87
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Originally Posted by rstackjd
Not sure either - but obviously Vinnies87 has figured it out - Vinnie - give us guidance!

Looks great by the way Vinnie
Not a problem, let me know what your interested in knowing specifically. If you talking about how the leather was applied to the glovebox cover and the plastic sides... actually it was very easy...

Plastic sides: (1) remove from car, (2) i used liquid goop remover to remove any oil/film, (3) sanded with 800 grit, the did the goop thing, (4) washed with Dawn and let dry 24hrs, (4) leather, thin with NO mass or material backing, (5) room temp on leather.
Tools: a. hair dryer b. 3m super adh c.pastery roller (wood)(comes with small and larger end), d.painters tape, e.clamps w/1/4x1" wood strips
(6) lay it out and leave 2" extra all around, (7) adh on both sides (plastic and Leather) let set for 10minutes, (8) position and set on plastic and work from center out using the hair dryer to heat then roller to smooth out (*if you heat and apply, you don't have to streth out thereby pulling away from indentures or rounded areas), (9) take to edges and then lighly pulling make over and apply wood and clamps leaving the corners to get later, (10) after all straight sections are secure (your leaving about an 1" on either side on the corners) slice, dice and cut to allow the corners to be done with mim overlap, takes some practice... wood and clamp, (11) let dry 24 hrs before moving and your done.
Basically the same process applies for the govebox lid (just disassemble completely before starting)
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