Ive changed brake pads on a car once in my life, and that was about ten years ago, so I have a couple of questions. Are there any other things that need to be done when changing the pads? Ive heard about turning the rotors, but I dont have any idea if this needs to be done every brake pad change or if it just needs to be done at a certain time. If theres any thing else I need to do, or should do during the brake pad change process, please fill me in. Sorry for the dumb questions, but im not very experienced when it comes to working on cars (obviously). I just wanna make sure I do things right, thanks.

 

Here's a good tech article that should be helpful

https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...D=51&TopicID=2

 

Just take your time and make sure the master cylinder doesn't spill fluid all over the place.

Also, if I remember correctly the calipers on the later C4 cars are only held in with pins and clips, it's even easier than the older ones that are bolted on.

 

Well the rear calipers are fastened using 'guide pin bolts' technically a bolt.

There are newer brake pad products on the market that perform much better these days. I'd recommend AC-Delco Durastop (ceramic). I have the originals, Hawk XPS and now Durastop. Most impressed with the last ones.

I'd recommend buying two new guide pins, c-clips, and two upper guide pin bolts, don't reuse the old one's.

According to several papers written by GM Engineers, as well as other advocates it's pretty much impossible to "warp" a rotor. (I know this gets controversial.) They can crack, get super hot and wear down.

Considering your vehicle history, I'd say just order a new set of OEM AC-Delco rotors for your vehicle. You'll need new caliper bracket attach bolts, single use only. The rear's can be easily removed without having to disarm the ebrake autoadjust, and without completely disconnecting the caliper from the caliper bracket, you only need to remove the upper guide pin bolt, compress, rotate caliper and remove the pads then remove the caliper mounting bolts and lift the bracket and caliper assembly together out of the way. Use a hanger to hold it up on the upper shock mount while you swap out the rotors. I think the rears are easier to do then the fronts, pads or rotors. Also as long as you only draw out about 1/2 the fluid, and don't open the bleeds there will be no need to bleed them. Once your done, just top off the reservoir and press the pedal a couple times to seat the pads start the engine let it idle for a minute or so then pump the brakes three times should return to normal (only better).

Oh and don't forget to burnish the pads. Before back in service take it out up to 30mph hard stop repeat x20 then let cool down.

Good luck.

 

its a good thing to do and its a piece of cake
good luck

 

Just my opinion, Brakes are easy but so is everything if you know what you're doing. If you're that inexperienced take it to a shop or have somebody with more experience do it with you. You can't learn to fix a car by trial and error. Well actually you can but it can become more expensive and stressful than letting somebody with experience do it. Good Luck