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Hmmm, no one asked you how many miles on the car. Replace it if you like, but if it has low miles I bet that Opti is fine. Changing it and the wires is a lot more work ahead of you, and may give you no more than a little piece of mind.
I replaced my Gen1, passively vented Opti at 114K miles after a WP leak. Took it apart and there wasn't anything wrong with it, one small spot/stain near the weep holes, otherwise just fine. I'm still glad I replaced it, but mine had held up quite well. If this is a 50K mile or less car with a gen2 Opti, it is IMO likely a waste of time and money to replace a perfectly good Opti. If it has more than 50K, it gets harder to make that decision.
I see no need to change the timing chain. 80k isn't that much mileage and you are looking at a lot more work to change it for very little to no gain. Spend your time and effort on cleaning and inspecting the rest of the car.
The car has 80k on it. Since I pulled it this morning I will be replacing it.
Any preference on brand ? Should I do the timing chain also?
I'd go with either a new OEM unit, or a DynaSpark if you want the most peace of mind possible.
Definitely replace the plug wires while you're in there. Plugs are optional, but I'd do them, too unless they're fresh.
I'd also recommend you change all of the coolant hoses and serpentine belt while you have it apart, and drain and/or flush the entire cooling system (remove the knock sensors to drain the block).
i just finished replacing the WP on my 96 this weekend...only 48K on the clock, so i left the opti-spark alone...if the opti does fail later, i can get the WP off in about an hour, so it won't be that big of a deal...
i just finished replacing the WP on my 96 this weekend...only 48K on the clock, so i left the opti-spark alone...if the opti does fail later, i can get the WP off in about an hour, so it won't be that big of a deal...
Yeah the water pump isnt that hard to remove really, one of the bolts on the passenger side can be a pain, but its not really that much hassle.
actually, the worst bolt to remove is the middle one on the drivers side...there are a couple of rubber hoses routed in front of that make it a real hassle to get a socket secured on the bolt head....all the others are pretty straight forward..........
actually, the worst bolt to remove is the middle one on the drivers side...there are a couple of rubber hoses routed in front of that make it a real hassle to get a socket secured on the bolt head....all the others are pretty straight forward..........
I am more fimiliar with the older corvettes. I pulled the pump and the Opti. The shaft on the Opti seems like it has some slop in it, but I don't have any experience with these.
I thought that the hardest part of the job was cleaning off the old gasket material on the engine block.
I just did my water pump. While taking out the water pump it poored about 1/2 gallon of coolant on the optispark so I decided to take it out to make sure it was ok. In order to take the optispark out you have to take the crank pully/balancer off. I took apart the optispark and was amazed to find it completely dry!!! I replaced the rotor and cap, $60.00, put it all together and it started up and ran perfect. I had some issues in the begining, but they were resolved.
actually, the worst bolt to remove is the middle one on the drivers side...there are a couple of rubber hoses routed in front of that make it a real hassle to get a socket secured on the bolt head....all the others are pretty straight forward..........
HAHAHA!! Sorry mate!!! That is the one i meant, my car is right hand drive, your driver side is my passenger side