My buddy is an amsoil dealer and I pay about $5 a quart. I use the oil in my Xterra but I stick with the mobile 1 with the vette because its recommended by the factory.

 

Wow $5/qt is a great deal.
Mobil 1 is fine for the Vette. Just make sure
you are using the 100% synthetic Mobil 1 as
they make 3 grades of it now I believe.

I would also consider German Castrol 0W-30
Amsoil 0W-30 and Red Line 5W-30.
Suberb lubricants.
Craig

 

Dan, for what its worth I found a Big 10 tire to change my oil down here and they let me bring my own oil and filter. They charge me ~$12 for labor. I like that place.

 

Fuzzy Dice, good to hear you're doing alright.
I think Amsoil is excellent oil and has many good properties. You are the only one who commented on the quality of the filter !!
Having a great lubricant can only work/last as long as the quality of the filter. Not to mention what is actually used as the element in some paper filters. My preferences Donaldson, M1's and Amsoil (last two are synthetic) makes good filters, and worth the extra bucks to keep the crap out of the motor.
If one is that concerned about protection and already looking at sites describing ball testing, flashpoints and the various properties of oil, it might be worth the time to look at some oil filter tests. JMO

 

 

I would find out what the local jiffy lube would do it for if you supplied the filter and the oil

I dont trust anyone
You might end up with dino in it and never know

 

Wal-Mart? Tire stores? Jiffy Lube?

That's playing with fire, boys... I wouldn't take my lawnmower to any of those places, much less any of my vehicles (especially my Vette).

Not a case of "nothing but the best for my baby" nonsense, but the semi-skilled (and I use that term generously) people working in those establishments are not the kind of people I want touching my stuff. Fortunately, I don't have that problem, tho..

 

Trust me folks, I would change my own in a heartbeat if I could...it kills me that I can't...oh well, sigh....I'll figure it out but it sounds like they quoted me using something less than 100% syn...thanks for all the replies...

 

Don't think that the series III "new synthetics" are
not good good lubes. Oil analysis studies have
shown that the newer series III oils are very close
in engine protection as the 100% sythetic oils.

They will not last as long however as the 100%ers.
For myself I use the 100% stuff.

Craig

 

I've always used Redline oil in all my turbo cars since I think it handles heat better. Of course this is all speculative since I am not a Petroleum Engineer. However when I was doing research on oils, the Redline oil is the only oil made with a synthetic base. Which is why it is approved for jet engines. All other oils have a petroleum base.

 

I agree with you 100% TO MANY HORROR STORIES ABOUT THOSE PLACES.

 

Quadracer,
Indeed Redline is an excellent oil. I use the RL 5W-20
in my '04 Acura TL. In everything else Amsoil.

On Redline being the only true synthetic I must take issue
with that statement. Redline has a different base stock
synthetic base than most others in that it's an Ester base
which I believe comes from plants or plant material.
Amsoil, Mobil 1, Castrol, Royal Purple and virtually most
other class IV synthetics are PAO (polyalphaoliphin) based
and come from ethylene gas which is a by product of crude
oil. Both esters and PAO's are molecularily engineered
oils that are equally "synthetic".

There is some confusion now with the introduction of the
class III synthetics which are highly purified (hydrocracked)
petroleum base stock oils with synthetic additives. These
have been classed as synthetics after a hugh lawsuit defining
what "synthetic" oil could be made from. They won.

As lubrication demands from the OEM's and government
pollution standards change so do the formulations that make
up the oils we use change to meet these specs. This is
not necessarily good news in that some well know anti
wear additives have been curtailed in use because they
"may" be detrimental to the catalytic converter.
For this reason I am stashing all the SL rated oil I can
as this change affects the new SM rated oils.

So we will see many changes in additives from all engine
lube blenders to keep their oils performance in this
harsher federal regulation evironment.

Craig

 

AH I humbly stand corrected That is just another reason why I belong to these forums

 

Craig,
Two alternative tacks to take (as you probably know) are diesel oils (prior to the brand new API CJ-4 standard) such as the AMSOIL Series 3000 Synthetic 5w30 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil which meets API SL but not the newer more restrictive API SM, and marine motor oils. I switched to the AMSOIL SAE 10w40 Formula 4-Stroke Marine Synthetic Motor Oil for my last race this year (unfortunately crashing in it). FYI, AMSOIL also makes a 30 weight: AMSOIL SAE 10w30 Formula 4-Stroke Marine Synthetic Motor Oil

The Marine Motor oils are designed for marine motor applications including Chevy small block I/O motors and meet API SL but do not currently have to meet API SM. Their HTHS rating is higher than comparible viscosity API SM motor oils and they have the added advantage of having rust inhibitors which I feel is a bonus for the occassional use Vette (or winter storage).

 

Subdriver,
You are correct and in fact I am running with the HDD
diesel oil in my LT-1 as we speak. It's one of Amsoil's
best products at present I believe.

I also use the ACD 10w-30 (straight 30wt) in my CAT
diesel on my boat. Along with 2 BE-110's in the bypass
system last seasons oil analysis was pretty darn good.
Only 8ppm of iron and it was highest metal # in the test.

I did not consider the marine oil as I wanted a little lower
viscosity.
Craig