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Ok Guys I am about ready to take the vette to a chevy dealer which would be easy accept on the wallet and besides this is suppose to be fun RIGHT. I have cleared the codes on the ecm which i only had one code 15 .I changed the cooling temp sensor and then the male plug to the sensor and it cleared . hooray, The car was running rough idle before that and it never changed by clearing the code. It also had a miss like a plug or bad wire. I changed the plugs and checked each wire with a plug tester where you ground the test plug with each wire connected to see if you get spark . All wires checked out. The car continues to miss and is actually starting to backfire a little just sitting there idling. When you drive it it runs like it is running on 7cylinders loss of power Have I dug deep enough for next step a dealer ? Ireally would like to find this on my own and learn something !! Any help would be great tks Randy
1 thing I'm certain about: DO NOT GO TO THE DEALER
Perhaps a cap and rotor replacement may be in order?
Did you do a compression test when you changed the plugs?
Once you try what zo1boy suggested it may be time to look under the valve covers for, (A) broken spring, (B) bent pushrod, (C) a valve that isn't opening very far which could indicate flat cam. Good luck, I hope it's a quick, easy fix for you.
1 thing I'm certain about: DO NOT GO TO THE DEALER
Perhaps a cap and rotor replacement may be in order?
Did you do a compression test when you changed the plugs?
Idid not do any compression test. The next thing I gues Iwill do is check the cap and rotor.Its kinda funny when this seem like it started is one day Iwas checking connections due to rough idle and I unplugged theTPS plug and plugged it back in and since then it has seem to have this problem. Before that it ran very strong just a rough idle at that time.
When you changed out the wires, any chance that you crossed the wires. Recheck the firing order to be sure that you didn't switch a wire to a different plug. Sometimes you can cross a wire that will be close enough to the firing order the car will run but backfire at or above idle.
When you changed out the wires, any chance that you crossed the wires. Recheck the firing order to be sure that you didn't switch a wire to a different plug. Sometimes you can cross a wire that will be close enough to the firing order the car will run but backfire at or above idle.
I didnt change wires but i have taken them loose many times . Ivery well could have done that . easy to do thanks
how do Icheck the module .what do i need to do? thanks Randy
Some auto parts store will check them for you but I am not sure what ones. Make sure you track the plug wires 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 for the firing order. The module is not expensive but I do not like throwing money away at problems until you do all the trouble shooting.
Please post your fuel pressure results, this will help.
Please post each cylinder compression results as well.
Pull each spark plug at examine the tip this will tell you as well if you have a problem with one particular cylinder.
Some auto parts store will check them for you but I am not sure what ones. Make sure you track the plug wires 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 for the firing order. The module is not expensive but I do not like throwing money away at problems until you do all the trouble shooting.
Please post your fuel pressure results, this will help.
Please post each cylinder compression results as well.
Pull each spark plug at examine the tip this will tell you as well if you have a problem with one particular cylinder.
Ijust got done checking firing order and plug wires .plug wires are right.will try to get fuel pressure results next few days. this is wild how this just started out of te blue.Ihave about a half tank and about 2weeks ago i added some fuel injector cleaner to the tank. could that cause this. should i go top off the tank with some high octane??
1. I would check the connections on the fuel injectors (making sure they are clean/tight and use a test light on the terminals of the connectors while the engine runs and feel the top of the connector while connected to the injector. 2. Pull the spark plugs and check their condition 3. Do a fuel pressure leak down test 4. Ohm each injector. 5. At night, disconnect the hood lights and look for sparks around the engine bay while the engine runs.
1. I would check the connections on the fuel injectors (making sure they are clean/tight and use a test light on the terminals of the connectors while the engine runs and feel the top of the connector while connected to the injector. 2. Pull the spark plugs and check their condition 3. Do a fuel pressure leak down test 4. Ohm each injector. 5. At night, disconnect the hood lights and look for sparks around the engine bay while the engine runs.
Hook up a fuel pressure guage, run engine, record fuel pressure, shut off engine with fuel pressure guage still connected, wait 3-5min, check fuel pressure. There should not be more than a few (3-5 psi) drop in the fuel pressure after 5 min.
A good indicator for leaking injectors is after shutting the car off and going to restart it within 10-15 after it has been shut off it will take a few more seconds for it to restart than it does if it is left overnight.
Normal start <1-2 seconds of cranking
Leaking injector start >5 seconds of cranking.
If you are experiencing these conditions, depressing the accelerator pedal while cranking will help evaporate some of the puddled fuel from the leaking injector(s) and help to restart the car.
I have a 85 and did the same thing, hunted for a long time changed everthing I could, even replaced injectors. Finally found it (the miss) had a broken injector wire. Pealed the plastic sheild off each plug, checked each plug, found the wire inside was broke, the outside looked fine but broke inside. Good Luck
Another thing to watch out for is the IAC valve. Its not working properly it can cause the car to idle very badly and even stall out. I'm not sure if it would cause it to backfire though.
Can you tell if the backfire is in the exhaust or the intake? Exhaust backfires are often from a malfunctioning air pump. Intake from extra fuel, Vapor Canister satuated or a broken switching valve allowing fuel into the plenum at all times.
You can isolate a single cylinder with a grounded test light and some 1 inch pieces of 1/4 inch vacuum hose. Place a piece of hose between each plug wire and the Distributor and then touch each piece of hose with the test light to kill the cylinder. Any that don't have the same RPM drop is the problem. Once isolated, troubleshoot that cylinder - plug, wire, injector, valves, etc.