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Replacing Shift Console Plate-Automatic

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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 12:02 PM
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Default Replacing Shift Console Plate-Automatic

I am fixing to replace my shift console plate on my '94. Anyone done this? Any tips? It looks pretty straight forward, but you never know.

Thx
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 12:33 PM
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I did replaced mine on my '88, it was not difficult.
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 12:39 PM
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1/2 hr job. Take 4 screws out of the storage compt lid hinge and lay it aside. Lift the storage compt mat and you will see two more screws that hold down the rear of the shifter cover, then there is a small torx head screw in the front drink holder well. After that raise the rear of the cover and slide it back just slightly to get the front tabs out from under the front vertical trim piece. Disconnect assorted wires and it is about ready to come off. Gently pry the shifter button off and there is a C clip holding the **** on.
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 01:18 PM
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just did it on mine.. took 5 min

The console is drying in the garage right now after a re-finish, and i cant belive how good this came out! glad I gave it a shoot before ordering a new 125$ one
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 01:34 PM
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Thanks for your help.
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 09:14 PM
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Lars87: Do you mind telling us how you refinish your console? I am interested. Thanks.
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Lars87
just did it on mine.. took 5 min

The console is drying in the garage right now after a re-finish, and i cant belive how good this came out! glad I gave it a shoot before ordering a new 125$ one
me too, stripped it with carb cleaner that really loosens up the rubber coating and sanded, primed and painted with krylon semiflat
black. it is a perfect match. it looks brand new for $5
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 10:31 PM
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Good job, looks good.
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 12:51 PM
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Got my new one (old one was cracked) in the mail today. Can I paint on the "tackey" surface or do I need to prime it?

There are smug marks from the packaging that it came in; will these show through?

Thx
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 01:11 PM
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Whatever you do, do it to the old one first.
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Jag77
Got my new one (old one was cracked) in the mail today. Can I paint on the "tackey" surface or do I need to prime it?

There are smug marks from the packaging that it came in; will these show through?

Thx
tacky surface is the dulo (rubber coating) you can't paint that. I say send it back, I also heard the repro ones fade real bad after a few years. is there any way to repair your cracked one and paint it? if not maybe you can find a used one and paint it. any used one will probably have the coating rubbed off in the wear areas. good luck
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by gator79
tacky surface is the dulo (rubber coating) you can't paint that. I say send it back, I also heard the repro ones fade real bad after a few years. is there any way to repair your cracked one and paint it? if not maybe you can find a used one and paint it. any used one will probably have the coating rubbed off in the wear areas. good luck
If you need it I have my old one, cracked in right front corner and probably could be glued. Free except for whatever it costs to send it to you. (95 A4 style).
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by aminnich
1/2 hr job. Take 4 screws out of the storage compt lid hinge and lay it aside. Lift the storage compt mat and you will see two more screws that hold down the rear of the shifter cover, then there is a small torx head screw in the front drink holder well. After that raise the rear of the cover and slide it back just slightly to get the front tabs out from under the front vertical trim piece. Disconnect assorted wires and it is about ready to come off. Gently pry the shifter button off and there is a C clip holding the **** on.
Excellent description. I just removed mine on Christmas Day this way, after disconnecting the neg. battery terminal first. Replaced the shift boot with a new Redline. It goes back together the reverse of that. The C clip was the hardest thing to put back on of all the things (no tool).
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 12:14 PM
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Well I called the supplier and they did not have a clue what the tackey stuff was but said to try what ever I wanted and if it did not work send it back w/ full refund. So I went to the Sherman Williams store to see if the had a solution to rub it off.

They gave me a solution and it seemed to help, but the peice remained somewhat tackey. I decided to spray paint it with the krylon semiflat and as of last night it was smooth and no tackey feeling.

I will update if things change.
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 07:10 PM
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Done. It took me 1 1/2 hours, but it looks great. Thanks to aminnich and Gmans96Coupe. The C ring was the tricky part because the tool that I had was not long enough.

Found an ink pin in the shifter well, but nothing of value.

Thanks again for the heads up.
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 07:14 PM
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Gator, yours looks great. Nice job
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Jag77
Done. It took me 1 1/2 hours, but it looks great. Thanks to aminnich and Gmans96Coupe. The C ring was the tricky part because the tool that I had was not long enough.

Found an ink pin in the shifter well, but nothing of value.

Thanks again for the heads up.
Great to hear it went well Jag77. Mine? I am now 35 cents richer.
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Fast Cop
Gator, yours looks great. Nice job
thanks, this is a pic of it before, you can see the coating is rubbed off on the side of the shifter.

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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by gator79
thanks, this is a pic of it before, you can see the coating is rubbed off on the side of the shifter.

That a nice armrest. I've not seen any like that. Where did you get it?
Thanks
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 92LRC
That a nice armrest. I've not seen any like that. Where did you get it?
Thanks
corvette america
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