The last time I purchased a set of headers (which was longer ago than I care to admit to) I paid about 150 bucks. I'm looking for a set now for my 91 L98 Coupe and can't find any less than $950! What happened???
Am I correct in assuming that long tubes are the way to go or is that all that's available. Also, I'll draw on your collective experience...who makes the best ones for fit and performance?

 

For a price like that, go to summit's website and put in part number HED-68440. Many bash those headers, but most seem to do so because of how much they cost. I have them, they are fine. If you do a search on this site, you'll find more arguments, debates and information then you can handle.

 

Do a search on the forum, but Hedman Elites seem to be popular and they are only a couple hundred.

 

Ive been griping about $600 Hookers....CFI clued me into the Hedmans this morning..Flanges, pipes all look the same and much cheaper. May go that route, car doesnt know what brand the pipes are.
Try Summit and see what comes up.

 

So if you go with the Hedman HED-68446 (coated) which Y-pipe do you use (ie. Magnaflow sys with high-flot cat - already installed) (87/L98)... Cause i've been looking at TPIS sys w/y-pipe but the cost is $850+...

 

 

The Hedman Elites were on back order for months, so I went with the Hookers. My buddy made the Y-pipe with some tubing and flanges. No fitment issues, but the primaries are very close to the plug boots. He put some heat wrap around the wires...just in case.

 

If you cut the front Y pipe, it'll all but perfectly line up with the Hedman collectors...I believe this is Agent86's car pictured below during install. Mine will be identical. Summit had them in stock a few weeks ago when I got mine...I can buy a lot of BEER & GAS with the $500 I didn't spend...

 

i cant believe those are less then $150!!! what type of performance gains can one expect from them?

 

Is there anything comparable for the LT1's? Or will this fit even though it is listed for L98 years?

 

Looked at Summit, RE: HED-68440, footnotes say modification to a/c bracket required, what is the mod?

 

I think one of the mounting points is on the exhaust manifold and that goes away with headers. Someone posted a while back how they made something that helped hold the AC compressor so the remaining bracket would not break. Hopefully someone will chime in and tell me I am full of it, or show how this piece is made.

 

Those 68440's do not fit the LTx's very well at all.

Same as any other LT header (with respect to primary size).

 

Thanks for the input everyone. I spent some time investigating prices last night and found them for $139, $335, $559, $850, $979 and $1099. Now correct me if I'm wrong, but they all do the same thing right? I understand that tube sizes affect performance but most of them were the same. Some were tuned, some weren't...some painted, some ceramic coated while others were stainless steel. Others came with everything necessary, some came with nothing. I guess it's a matter of how deep your pockets are. I wonder if the old saying "you get what you pay for" applies here or if some of these manufacturers are just plain greedy!

 

Iv'e been considering headers for my 87 for a few months and I am leaning towards the Heddman Elites. I haven't figured out if I wan the set with the AIR hookups or not. An emissions check is not required where I live and the car really sees little street use anyway. But removing the AIR system and installing a pulley can run another $150 or so.

I haven't been around headers for a loooong time so there are some things I was curious about. On the Summit and JEG's websites, the Hooker headers are shown as "tuned" and the Heddmans are "not tuned". How much of a difference that may make in the power gains between the two products may influence your choice.

I recall reading in Hot Rod years ago about the importance of overall tube length, collector length, and if all of the individual tubes are the same length. Depending on what the car is used for will probably have to be considered in a header selection. The overall exhaust pipe diameter has to play a part in selection and power output as does the type of exhaust (Y-pipe or true duals), cats or not (or even hi-flow cats), and mufflers.

There are other factors to consider if you look at the materials and thicknesses. Some headers are pretty thin gauge tubing (the difference can be between 18 ga and 14 ga); the thickness of the flange may be an issue as is the size of the port on the flange and the diameter of the tubes.

Coating on the headers are important. Simple painted headers will most likely not last as long as the ceramic coated versions. Coated headers will keep engine compartment temps down and inhibit rust and corrosion. Of course you pay more for the coated ones but the benefits will outweigh the extra cost.

 

Well written.

 

The coated Hedman Elites, Part # 68448 are $336.99 at Summit. Black painted ones are much cheaper. I wanted the thicker flange and coating for mine, the coating solely due to the way these cars seem to hold heat underhood.

As for the "tuned" vs. "un-tuned" primary tube lengths, on 99% of the cars that use headers from any company, it is un-needed and won't make nearly a worthwhile difference. Guaranteed nothing you'll ever feel. Just the idea of having a header from any manufacturer rather than the factory scrunched up "header" can't do anything BUT help the car breathe. If I was building a maximum effort drag car or other track type car I "may" consider spending the extra money for the TPiS version. Although I usually agree with it, I am not falling into the ALWAYS need to spend more to get your money's worth theory on this one. Everyone who has them, says the Hedman's install very easily, clear everything, and also come with a much more realistic for 300hp or less 1-5/8" primary tubes.

I've personally made over 500rwhp EASILY using high dollar 1-5/8" longtubes (and a buddy made the same using Summit brand $80 ones, lol), so I can't see how anyone would think 1-3/4" tubing is needed on a setup that maybe makes half that? If I have to make a spacer for one bracket to be better supported, so be it. That's a non-issue for me.

Hedman's been around a long time, and wouldn't still be around if they made the junk that some people want to believe they do...Obviously, Hooker has been around forever too, but after owning a few sets of those in the past, and now owning a set of "cheapie" Hedman's...there ain't all that much difference in quality (if any) IMHO...Now if this "coating" falls off or something crazy, then I admit I'll be upset, lol...

 

Thanks again guys...I think I am leaning towards the Hedman Elites. All I need now is about a foot of snow so I have an excuse to put it up on jack stands for a while! I hope jack stands get the car high enough off the ground to get the job done.

 

Those look nice for the price. It looks like an O2 bung would be needed?

Also, wasn't there an issue with the port shape?

 

I asked about that just the other day. The consensus was to use a "heated" O2 sensor and either have it welded into the collector, or I have found that they also make a collector with bungs already in place. That'd be a good option for some people.


Don't know exactly what you refer to, but here's what I have found on my setup...
Since I've been in the process of modding (porting, siamesing, etc.) my runners, plenum, and just about everything thing else, lol, I have measured the inlets/outlets of anything that air or exhaust flows through to make certain there were no mismatched exit and entry points. On my new "Summit"/TFS heads that I'll be using, the untouched "D" shaped exhaust port measured 1.35" wide X 1.30" tall. The untouched header size right at the flange measures 1.22" wide X 1.55" tall, so I'll need to chamfer, or blend, the tube .015" wider to be safe and prevent any mismatch. That slight bit probably wouldn't matter, but I have the time and the tools, so why not.