Another spark plug thread....poll
Pro
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 503
Likes: 0
From: Oxford Pa
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 847
Likes: 0
From: Colorado Springs CO
1993 LT1
(1) Engine - LT1
(2) Stock cast iron manifolds
(3) 3/8" universal, a 12" extension, 3/8" ratchet and a 5/8" spark plug-socket. Spark plug boot pliers.1' fuel line rubber hose and 1 1/2" rubber hose for # 8. Hi temp Anti seize, Dielectric grease and maybe an adult beverage.
A magnetic rod to grab stuff that falls and a flash light.
(1) Engine - LT1
(2) Stock cast iron manifolds
(3) 3/8" universal, a 12" extension, 3/8" ratchet and a 5/8" spark plug-socket. Spark plug boot pliers.1' fuel line rubber hose and 1 1/2" rubber hose for # 8. Hi temp Anti seize, Dielectric grease and maybe an adult beverage.
A magnetic rod to grab stuff that falls and a flash light.
Last edited by Ttime; Jan 20, 2007 at 06:05 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 3,651
Likes: 5
From: Atlantis
Cruise-In I Veteran
GM says NO antisieze compound as you will get too much lubrication on the plug threads and overtorque the plugs. I torque my plugs by FEEL as it is ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE to get a torque wrench in place with little clearance. Hand tight then just a little way with a socket wrench.
BIGHANK
BIGHANKI'm looking at the FSM for the 1990 Vette and antisieze isn't mentioned.
Doesn't say use it, doesn't say don't use it.
It DOES say wait until the engine is cool before removing the plugs or the threads in the aluminum heads may be damaged.
(I've seen many post on this forum where guys are removing the plugs with the engine hot)
It's pretty common to use ANTISIEZE on sparkplugs going into aluminum heads.
If not, the electrolysis can (and will) cause the plug threads to lock in the plug hole and tear the softer aluminum threads when they are removed.
Antiseize should have no or very minimal bearing on torque on an 'open hole' thread.
I can't get a torque wrench on my plugs anyway.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,332
Likes: 31
From: Silver Spring MD
antisieze compound
When I CALLED AC Delcos 800 # the "expert" there said that GM doesn't recomment using the antisieze compound since it will cause you to OVERTORQUE the threads on the plugs past the 11 ft# recommended. I haven't been able to use a torque wrench on the plugs in 95% of the plugs I've installed so good judgement prevails.
I usually hand tighten plugs and then go a little bit more with a wrench.
I usually hand tighten plugs and then go a little bit more with a wrench.
Safety Car
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 3,651
Likes: 5
From: Atlantis
Cruise-In I Veteran
I use antisieze on all my plugs.
Never had one come loose on it's own either.
I use antisieze on the plugs for aluminum heads and cast heads.
What the heck is it made for? The name gives a fairly strong hint.
I reckon if you have never pulled a plug that's been in for a year or two and have the plug hole threads come out with the plug then you'd believe there's no need for antisieze on them.
But what the heck, I got banned from a board for advocating pre-oiling an engine before cranking it up for the first time.
Folks laugh at me for filling up the oil filter before installing it when changing the oil too.
Funny thing, I seldom have trouble with my cars that are decades old and all those folks seem to have to purchase a new one every couple of years.
THen, it's MY turn to laugh at them.
The brightest bulbs in the chandelier often DO NOT work the help desk.
My FSM calls for a torque of:
Vin 8 ......20 Ft./Lbs
Vin J ......15 Ft./Lbs.
Hmmm.... did someone say that guy was an "EXPERT" ????????
Yep, me too. But the SECOND thing I do is antisieze the plug threads.
That happens right after I check/gap the little suckers.
Never had one come loose on it's own either.
I use antisieze on the plugs for aluminum heads and cast heads.
What the heck is it made for? The name gives a fairly strong hint.
I reckon if you have never pulled a plug that's been in for a year or two and have the plug hole threads come out with the plug then you'd believe there's no need for antisieze on them.
But what the heck, I got banned from a board for advocating pre-oiling an engine before cranking it up for the first time.
Folks laugh at me for filling up the oil filter before installing it when changing the oil too.
Funny thing, I seldom have trouble with my cars that are decades old and all those folks seem to have to purchase a new one every couple of years.
THen, it's MY turn to laugh at them.
The brightest bulbs in the chandelier often DO NOT work the help desk.
My FSM calls for a torque of:
Vin 8 ......20 Ft./Lbs
Vin J ......15 Ft./Lbs.
Hmmm.... did someone say that guy was an "EXPERT" ????????
I usually hand tighten plugs and then go a little bit more with a wrench.
That happens right after I check/gap the little suckers.
Last edited by VetNutJim; Jan 21, 2007 at 04:16 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,332
Likes: 31
From: Silver Spring MD
removing plugs
One of the responses for removing plugs suggests a quick snap to loosen the plug. These plugs have been in there for 8+ years minus one that I checked about 2 years ago. Should I SNAP EM or try some rust penetrant FIRST and then just take a gradual amount of force breaking them loose? Don't want to REBORE the plug hole after I break off a plug. Last time I did this I was 16 and required taking the car firing on one less cylincer and with hissing every time the piston came up on a compression stroke. Haven't broken a plug since in last 45 years. BIGHANK
BIGHANK
